Hoppers
The original branch of Hoppers has been one of the busiest restaurants in Soho since it opened in 2015. The brilliantly executed Sri Lankan dishes, reasonable prices and no-bookings system have ensured that there are queues every evening. But leaving your number then waiting for a call back isn’t for everyone; neither is the cramped seating.
This second branch of Hoppers in Marylebone takes dinner bookings for parties of four or more. The tables and chairs are well-spaced. The service is slick and charming. But best of all, the food is just as good as at the Soho branch.
The name derives from the bowl-shaped pancakes called hoppers (or appam). A common breakfast dish in the country, here they are teamed with chutneys and sambols (relishes). Other dishes are flavoured with roasted spices, such as the bone marrow curry. There are plenty of “short eats” (snacks) to keep you diverted, and an unusually well-considered drinks list.
VERDICT A serendipitous find if you’re in Marylebone, and a destination restaurant if you crave the true tastes of the Sri Lankan kitchen.