TRIED AND TESTED LONDON RESTAURANTS

Sabor; Hoppers; plus three fun places for eating at the counter

Nieves Barragán Mohacho is the Spanish chef who was the driving force behind the Michelinstarred Barrafina. She has now set up her own place just off Regent Street with her former manager José Etura. Compared to Barrafina, Sabor seems huge, occupying two high-ceilinged and airy floors. The ground floor is a no-bookings bar and tapas counter. But the first floor dining room adds something quite new.

The upstairs asador (“roasting spit”) room is dominated by hefty, wooden shared tables that are best suited to larger groups of people. Be warned that it’s a very public space for a private business meeting. If, however, you’re looking to share a roasted Segovian suckling pig from a wood-fired oven this is the place to do it. Highlights of our meals were the crisp pig’s ears, baked and meltingly tender with flavoursome fat; and the Galician specialities such as the empanada filled with cuttlefish and squid ink.

VERDICT The place for Spanish food enthusiasts. Arrive very early to avoid a long wait for the tapas bar, or book ahead and arrive with a group for the dining room upstairs.