GEM - STONES OF THE MEX ICAN RIVIERA
Discover the unique and native gemological finds (from Chiapas amber to fire opal and agate) found south of the border.
The Mexican Riviera stretches for more than 990 miles along the coast of Mexico, from Baja California all the way to the ancient state of Oaxaca. It’s not hard to see why this area has become a legendary destination for lovers of ocean travel. Cities and lagoons are strung along the coast like jewels on a necklace, against the backdrop of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains. The Mexican Riviera offers some of the world’s most breathtaking land and seascapes.
The same unique geology and powerful natural forces that give this coastline its beauty are responsible for other wonders. This part of the world is famed as the source for an astonishing variety of rare and enchanting precious stones: agate and turquoise; jasper and obsidian; amber from the Chiapas caves and the legendary Mexican fire opal. Many of these stones are unusual and some unique to deposits in the region. They are crafted into jewelry of every description.
The ports along the Mexican Riviera are home to all kinds of jewelry outlets, from market stalls selling traditional silver designs to exclusive boutiques offering fine gemstone jewelry. As well as new pieces, the Mexican Riviera is the perfect place to find vintage and antique jewelry. Jewelry-making flourished under the Maya and Aztec empires, which between them covered much of this stretch of coastline. Even after the decline of these cultures, the tradition of jewelry-making endured. Mexican jewelry enjoyed something of a resurgence in the 1920s; pieces from this period are very exciting, including concepts from world-class designers.
Turquoise
The beauty of turquoise has entranced people since the dawn of humanity. The Toltecs — an ancient pre-Aztec civilization — prized turquoise highly, trading it with other cultures. The Aztecs raised turquoise to an even higher status; as well as personal adornments, it was used to embellish religious artifacts. Tiles made from thin sections of turquoise were often applied to the surface of an object, sometimes covering it completely. In the Nahuatl language, turquoise was known as teoxihuitl, a word meaning both precious and divine. Most turquoise sold along the Mexican Riviera today is mined in the northern state of Sonora.
Turquoise is a lovely gem, ranging from palest eau-de-nil to teal and even viridian, via every imaginable tint of bluegreen. Some turquoise gems display the matrix of the native rock they formed in, visible as contrasting veins. In most cases this matrix will diminish the value of a stone, though not all. The most valuable gems have robin’s-egg or sky-blue shades and are fairly uniform in color.
Mexican turquoise is generally stabilized by waxing or oiling, improving its color and making it less friable. Very thin sections of turquoise may be backed: fused to another material to stop them from cracking. Turquoise is a softer stone; look for designs that won’t expose the gem to knocks or scratches.
Mexican Fire Opal
Mexican opals are also known as fire opals or Mexican fire opals. True Mexican opals possess unusual clarity. Their colors range from a light tinge to vivid, saturated hues, from palest yellow to blood red. They differ from most other opals in that their clarity makes them suitable for faceting as well as for cabochons.
The stronger and more intense a stone’s color, the more precious it is. Orange is the most common color for Mexican opals. The rarest shades are deep reds — a strong red coloration greatly enhances the stone’s value. Mexican opals that are entirely clear are
Unique geology and powerful natural forces that give this coastline its beauty are responsible for other wonders.
especially sought-after; these stones are sometimes called “jelly opals.” Their fiery tints and great clarity make for a particularly arresting gem. Mexican opals may display more than one color, and such bi-colored stones are highly prized, as are cat’s-eye stones.
Another characteristic associated with the finest opals is the “play of light” — sparks of rainbow color that seem to shimmer from deep inside the stone. Mexican opals with this quality are very rare; they’re known as precious Mexican opals. The rarest of all are contra luz opals, which have an especially fine play of light.
Opals are notoriously prone to crazing and cracking. Quality Mexican opals are usually stored for at least a year and tested to ensure their stability. They are delicate, however, and require special care. Pieces with a bezel setting place less pressure on the gem than claw settings. Choose items where the stone is protected and save them for special occasions. Mexican opals should be stored individually and protected from rubbing or knocking against other jewelry.
Much fire agate originates in the mines of Calvillo in the Sierra Madre Mountains. A form of chalcedony, these semi-precious stones display beautiful rainbow colors when properly polished. This is a painstaking process, as even a small error can ruin the stone’s shimmering iridescence. The most common colors seen in fire agate are flashes of gold, green, and vermilion, like a forest of light.
A really good fire agate can be as impressive as a fine black opal. Fire agate is more resistant to damage than opal and better suited for everyday wear.
Obsidian
Obsidian is a naturally occurring volcanic glass, produced when some prehistoric volcano melted and vitrified the rocks around it. Obsidian is very hard and, when fractured, uncannily sharp. The Aztecs and other Mesoamerican cultures produced countless sophisticated obsidian items, including ceremonial knives and various weapons. (Even today, obsidian finds use in precision surgical instruments; the microscopically sharp edges make cleaner incisions than the finest steel.) Often highly polished, obsidian was used to make decorative dishes and bowls as well as ornaments and religious objects.
Obsidian gems have a mysterious beauty all their own. Most obsidian is dark gray or black, but lightcolored and translucent pieces can also be found. Very rarely, a piece is discovered that is nearly clear. Some obsidian displays chatoyancy, the shimmering effect seen in moonstone; in obsidian, this can produce the appearance of silvery or golden lights shining through the dark stone. Other specimens have a multicolored play of light, earning them the name of fire obsidian. One especially lovely variant is snowflake obsidian, which has pale frost-like markings on its dark surface.
In the Nahuatl language, turquoise was known as teoxihuitl, a word meaning both precious and divine.
Amber
Amber has been a culturally important gem wherever it’s found. In early Mesoamerica, supernatural properties were ascribed to this aromatic fossil resin. Because amber floats on water, some pieces may arrive on the Mexican Riviera by being washed up along the coast; more commonly, though, it’s brought here from Chiapas.
Mexican amber comes in many colors: light champagne, golden brown, ruby-red, and even green. Most excitingly, the Chiapas mines are among the tiny handful in the world that produce blue amber. When held up to a light source this stone looks golden or brown; under direct sunlight, however, a distinctive blue coloration appears.
When buying jewelry, be aware that stones are not always what they seem. Oiling and waxing are standard for some gems and are arguably part of jewelrymaking tradition. More extreme treatments — dyes, plastic coatings, reconstituting stones from powder — should always be disclosed to the prospective buyer. It doesn’t really matter if a $20 pendant happens to use reconstituted turquoise, but more costly items should be bought with care.