Arctic Adventures

Polar bears, remote Inuit communities, and beautiful, rugged landscapes. That’s what’s in store

WE CRUISED THE REGION WITH Adventure Canada, one of several companies that are active in Canada’s Arctic, especially now that more areas are becoming ice-free in the summer and early fall. Our 160 fellow passengers on the ice-strengthened Ocean Endeavour were mostly veteran cruisers with a passion for adventure and a desire to experience a unique environment that few people ever get to enjoy. The Arctic is remote with some unpredictable ( but carefully monitored) ice patterns. The pleasures far outweigh the risks and every one of our fellow passengers — a mix of Americans, Canadians, and Australians — loved the sense of adventure and history.

CHILLING ON BOARD

_ After a charter flight from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, we began our cruise in the western Nunavut community of Kugluktuk (formerly Coppermine). There are no docking facilities for cruise ships in the North so we boarded Zodiacs for the transfer to Ocean Endeavour, which carries 20 of these versatile rubber boats that are ideal for sightseeing and landings.

Built in 1981, Ocean Endeavour has had extensive refits and now boasts a spa, swimming pool, and hot tub; a broad library; and three lounges for lectures and entertainment. The dining room is large and bright with a surprisingly good menu selection that includes fresh caribou, Arctic char, and halibut from some ports. There are many stateroom categories, but all are comfortable with private shower or bath.

Adventure Canada is well known for the quality of its naturalists, and we were impressed by the staff of 38 Arctic specialists who gave lectures and guided us at the various stops. On board, we were joined by a top Canadian geologist, a veteran archeologist with two dozen Arctic trips to her credit, and specialists in birds, plants, marine mammals, Arctic culture, and geography. In fact, writer Ken McGoogan, author of Fatal Passage: The Story of John Rae, the Arctic Hero Time Forgot, the definitive story of Sir John Franklin’s ill-fated search for the Northwest Passage in the mid 1800s, gave several lectures.

ADVENTURES ASHORE

_ On most days, we boarded our Zodiacs for a water tour or landings on a beach where we explored the rugged tundra, ranging from completely barren to surprisingly colorful. One photography lecturer said the flora reminded him of a well-tended Japanese garden. We explored centuries-old ruins of the pre-Inuit culture and visited abandoned Hudson’s Bay Company stores and former depots used by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.

Two small Inuit communities, Gjoa Haven (named for the compact boat Roald Amundsen used in 1906 to finally cross the elusive Northwest Passage) and iceberg-lined Grise Fiord (the northernmost community in Canada), welcomed us with town tours and lively displays of drumming, dancing, throat singing, and unique Arctic athletic competitions. We sampled local food and mingled with friendly and generous residents who have adapted well to the harsh climate of the north.

By day three, we spotted polar bears from our Zodiacs, and not just one or two, but about a dozen of the magnificent, snow-white beasts meandering along the edge of the treeless tundra. In addition to polar bears, we spotted seals, muskoxen, Arctic hares, Arctic foxes, bowhead whales, and beluga whales. In late summer there was still plenty of bird life, particularly on the tall cliffs of Prince Leopold Island.

Although there was an abundance of icebergs on the Canadian portion of the cruise, the truly spectacular bergs were seen after we crossed to western Greenland. Karrat Fjord, dotted with icebergs from nearby glaciers and surrounded by spectacular mountains, was at its best on the sunny, warm (well, 40 degrees Fahrenheit) day we visited.

Even more spectacular were the icebergs farther south at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Ilulissat Icefjord. Huge bergs covered the sea, many the size of city blocks. On Zodiacs, we toured as close as we dared to these majestic towers of ice.

We ended our cruise by sailing 120 miles at night up Sondre Stromfjord, the longest (and ice-free) fjord in Greenland. The heavens celebrated our excellent adventure with an amazing Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) display. The bright, cloud-like formations seemed to dance in the sky, a perfect ending to one of our best-ever cruise adventures.