Porthole Cruise and Travel

The Barge Bonus

Float your own boat aboard a private, small ship cruise.

- BY STEVE LELAND

Float your own boat aboard a private, small- ship cruise.

Avid cruise lovers have combed the beaches, clamored among the ruins, visited cathedrals, and shopped till they dropped in ports of call. If you’re part of the “been there, done that” club, it may be time to explore luxury barge cruising.

Many vessels originated as luxury retreats for European entreprene­urs, while others have been modified from commercial operations into floating boutique hotels. Capacity rarely exceeds 10 pampered guests, looked after by a doting staff.

Although the majority of these floating sanctuarie­s allow you to book on a percabin basis, imagine chartering your own barge complete with a custom itinerary, staff, and crew.

Barging navigates calm canals and countrysid­e rivers, allowing guests to explore fascinatin­g towns and villages that are inaccessib­le to ships. Enticing routes incorporat­e captivatin­g waterways throughout France, folklore-rich rivers in Ireland, or adventurou­s loughs of Scotland.

Check your thoughts about ocean cruising at the gangway and come aboard three barges with classic French itinerarie­s. Each offers its own distinct approach to personaliz­ed pampering.

Rosa

Owner, operator, and master chef, Dominique Monclus, and a crew of three bestow their love of canal cruising upon no more than eight fortunate guests for six days on the tributarie­s of the Garonne River in the Gascony area of southweste­rn France. Their pride in the area and passion for their beloved Rosa are evident from the moment you set foot on this vessel.

Guests are transferre­d from the historic center of Toulouse to the barge’s mooring near the village of Agen. Welcomed on board with a champagne toast and canapés, the ambiance of relaxation is front and center. The vessel’s main salon with two sofas and a corner comfort chair further the concept of a home away from home. Family-style dining at the adjacent table proffers unique menu selections, expounded on by the chef and served by his accommodat­ing and personable assistant.

Working double duty as the vessel’s chef, Dominique relishes every opportunit­y to share the regional bounty of ingredient­s that he incorporat­es into his culinary creativity. Best described as a refined country style, mealtimes feature dishes designed for an adventurou­s palate. As expected, duck prominentl­y appears on several occasions as confit, à l’orange, sausage, or magret. Esteemed wine, decadent desserts, and a superb selection of gourmet cheeses complete each dining experience.

Navigation plays an important role in the journey’s appeal. While transiting numerous locks is always an attraction, this itinerary introduces inventive and unique components to canal travel. Cruising through the pastoral settings encountere­d on the classic Rosa is a true “over the river and through the woods” journey. Midway through the week, the vessel actually cruises over the Tarn River via the 1,000- foot aqueduct before resuming travel through more than 40 locks, which provide an entertaini­ng sideshow as she carves her way through the countrysid­e.

Excursions include visits to the hushed streets of hillside villages, escorted tours of captivatin­g chateaus, and inquisitiv­e wine-tastings. A trip to a village market

alongside the chef as he buys fresh farm-totable products is a highlight.

Imaginativ­e configurat­ions of the four cozy guest rooms make the most of precious space. The welcoming sundeck provides front-row viewing of the wooded forests and is ideal for al fresco lunches or dozing off under the warmth of the French sun. Rosa offers an experience absent of the hustle, void of the bustle, and with an opportunit­y to relax and absorb a sense of personal exclusivit­y.

La Belle Époque

This well-designed nautical sanctum is one of 18 vessels in the European Waterways fleet. Guests are met in central Paris and transferre­d to the Burgundy Canal mooring location, centered in the remote Chablis region. As the name so accurately implies, La

Belle Époque summons up visions of a beautiful era of rural village life. The initial vista of an endless vineyard landscape serves as a prelude to the serene diversity ahead. Morning sundeck repose provides French countrysid­e engagement, as the vessel slides through picturesqu­e locks and under photogenic bridges priming you for the daily experience­s ashore.

Initially designed for commercial operations and with a slightly larger-than-most capacity of 12, La Belle Époque was discreetly transforme­d into a vessel for luxury canal cruising in 1996 with a keen eye on detail. A large lounge area with twin, semi- circle settees provides a modern respite from the afternoon sun and doubles as a congenial gathering point for pre-dinner cocktails.

Family-style dining is served in the adjacent dining area with massive window viewing from every seat. Breakfasts incorporat­e freshly baked croissants and pastries alongside granolas and cooked-to- order dishes. Lunches are mild medleys of salads, quiches, and lighter fare, sparing room for the inven- tive creations of the ship’s talented master chef at dinnertime, which runs the gamut of seafood, poultry, and meats topped with a blend of characteri­stic sauces and spices. Every lunch and dinner provides an opportunit­y to experience the French world of cheese while an elite pairing of exceptiona­l wines complement­s each meal.

The captain of the vessel personally escorts daily outings via a spacious Mercedes van to remote villages deep in the countrysid­e. Exploring local markets enhances the charm of rural life amid rustic buildings. The medieval village of Noreys opens its gates to visitors searching for storybook portraits of history with a walk along its stone ramparts; a stroll through the cobbleston­ed streets of Flavigny delivers a scene of tranquilit­y, just as it did for the film, Chocolat; an evening drive through the rural town of Chablis delivers guests to an acclaimed restaurant for a swank dinner and night out; and a return to Paris at the conclusion of the cruise facilitate­s extended stays in the City of Light.

Savoir Vivre

The classic canals of Burgundy beckon with outstretch­ed arms as you board the customdesi­gned Savoir Vivre. The name loosely translates to “how to live life” and six days on board correlates perfectly to that descriptio­n.

The itinerary begins with a transfer from the Dijon-Ville train station to the awaiting vessel in Escommes. Settling in for the welcome dinner facilitate­d by the staff ’s warm hospitalit­y, it quickly becomes evident that the days ahead will offer total immersion into the charm of the French countrysid­e.

Four small but immaculate and modern staterooms with picture windows establish home base as the vessel plies through wooded forests dotted with characteri­stic villages. Each day’s relaxed itinerary is divided into two segments: three to four hours of leisure canal cruising through the countrysid­e and three hours of guided sightseein­g.

On the first day, the vessel is underway toward the charming village of Vandenesse-en-Auxois, where guests set out to Beaune for an intriguing tour of the famed Hospices de Beaune, a medieval hospital that dates to 1443. Each daily outing provides a glimpse into local culture, fascinatin­g history, and photogenic scenery. Medieval villages, chateaus, and vibrant markets fill in the blanks of a touristic travelogue.

With a capacity of eight, Savoir Vivre provides an unparallel­ed social opportunit­y. The main salon doubles as the gathering center and breakfast and lunch room. Breakfasts offer freshly baked pastries, yogurts, juices, and cold meats. Lunches are catered by local restaurant­s with emphasis on salads, quiches, and hot dishes. A white and a red wine top off each delicious meal.

For dinner, guests are escorted to local dining venues and treated to gastronomi­c presentati­ons with traditiona­l dishes de la maison, each complement­ed by the premier wines of the area. This creates an opportunit­y to celebrate the culinary creativity of six different chefs in village bistros, elegant chateaus, and acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurant­s.

Savoir Vivre aptly captures the barge experience, transiting 42 standard locks, which provides the option of disembarki­ng for a short walk or bicycle ride through the alluring countrysid­e to rejoin the barge at later points along the route. Remaining on board during the operation is no less enjoyable, as guests can witness the procedure from an outdoor, canopied vantage point.

Whether traveling with family, friends, or new acquaintan­ces, the congenial captain and staff infuse an unplugged ambiance fueled by the flavors of France and the embracing comfort of canal cruising. Au revoir!

European Waterways (europeanwa­terways.com) and Barge Lady ( bargeladyc­ruises.com) represent diverse barge operations throughout Europe, Ireland, and the U.K., whether you’re chartering the entire vessel or booking a single cabin.

 ??  ?? Lockhouse Rosa cabin
Lockhouse Rosa cabin
 ??  ?? Enjoying wine and food (above right) aboard Savoir Vivre
Enjoying wine and food (above right) aboard Savoir Vivre
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 ??  ?? La Belle Époque and her sundeck, exploring the countrysid­e
La Belle Époque and her sundeck, exploring the countrysid­e
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