Porthole Cruise and Travel

Pandaw’s Pursuit of Laos

The 28-passenger Sabaidee Pandaw proves to be an ideal vessel for taking in the hypnotic jungle scenery.

- BY STEVE L E LAND

The 28- passenger Sabaidee Pandaw proves to be an ideal vessel for taking in the hypnotic jungle scenery.

Pandaw’s Sabaidee Pandaw embraces the essence of far-flung river travel in comfort, competentl­y curated for authentic engagement.

Experienti­al river cruising provides an opportunit­y to discover new lands, cultures, and people, deviating from the path well-traveled. Intrepid travelers recognize that going off the radar has its perks, and cruising the Mekong River, as it dissects intriguing Laos, is as rewarding as it gets. Fascinatin­g visions of the country’s inherent beauty are perfectly captured by river cruise operator Pandaw. If you can forsake white-sand beaches, cathedrals, and guidebook narrative, this landlocked country nestled in the heart of Southeast Asia is a consummate cruise selection.

Pandaw’s Sabaidee Pandaw embraces the essence of far-flung river travel in comfort, competentl­y curated for authentic engagement. A transfer from Chiang Mai, Thailand (or Chiang Rai) to the awaiting vessel initiates an inspiring first impression of the region’s diversity. The Golden Triangle confluence of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos is a virtual collision of raw jungle landscapin­g and remote serenity, mercifully escaping the intrusion of urban sprawl.

This 28-passenger vessel has been locally crafted with lightly colored but deeply grained teakwood accents that contribute to a crisp, contempora­ry look. All staterooms, regardless of location, feature double-glass entry doors that open directly onto the promenade deck. With beds that can be configured to either a queen or two twins, the smartly furnished rooms follow through with the richly grained wood theme.

Creeping along the lifeblood Mekong River, the hypnotic imagery of the jungle conjures up a mix of instinctiv­e curiosity and seductive cinema. Laos is deeply rooted in tribal traditions, and local authentici­ty is on full display with escorted visits to Ban Dan Village and Ban Huy Lam Pan, home to the ethnic Hmong people. Giddy school children rush to the vessel, anxious to exchange smiles and giggles with the arrival of visiting cruise guests.

Afternoons are an exhilarati­ng blend of mountain village landscapes and fast-moving navigation, never quite reaching the intensity of white water rafting, but far from the sedentary speed of European river cruising. Propelled by the Mekong’s swift current, the riverbank scenery passes with rapid animation as the vessel squeezes through massive boulders and sandbars. As daylight fades the vessel comes to a well-deserved rest on a sandbank, where happy hour cocktails with barbecue snacks and the skyward release of lanterns cap off the invigorati­ng day.

Cruising downstream the next day offers an opportunit­y to witness the spectacula­r limestone formations of the Nam Ou River and thousands of sculpted Buddhas lining the ledges of Pak Ou Caves.

The former royal capital of Luang Prabang provides an ideal overnight mooring location for an onboard Laotian cultural ceremony spirited by locally produced moonshine. Deservingl­y awarded its UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the city perfectly captures the religious and cultural legacy of the country. The surviving remnants of the country’s colonial French heritage seamlessly endure alongside ancient Buddhist temples, including the gilded Wat Xiang Thong, revealing spiritual subject matter for inquisitiv­e travelers.

A visit to the Royal Palace and National Museum exposes a treasure trove of artifact exhibits that retrace the monarchy along with Laotian history, and an early morning stroll reveals the ritual of Buddhist monks in their burnt orange robes collecting alms.

After the extended stay in the city, the vessel sets sail for deep exploratio­n of the countrysid­e’s visceral beauty and the magnificen­t Kuang

The perfumed growth of the forest serves as sensory embellishm­ent to the photogenic cascades and turquoise pools set deep in the jungle.

Si Waterfalls. The perfumed growth of the forest serves as sensory embellishm­ent to the photogenic cascades and turquoise pools set deep in the jungle.

Absorbing the visual aspects of the Mekong is only one component of the cruise as Sabaidee Pandaw is a home-away-from-home destinatio­n in itself. The design of the alfresco dining room is conducive to a welcoming and intimate ambiance, and due to the limited number of guests, meals are competentl­y prepared with a tinge of local Asian flair but never deviating far from the tastes of Western palates. The covered open-air lounge area is replete with polished teak floors and traditiona­l rattan furnishing­s, exuding a colonial look and feel with an overall folksy vibe of casualness.

As Sabaidee Pandaw continues downstream and is lowered through a series of locks, the high-tech spectacle of the newly constructe­d Xayaburi Dam is in sharp contrast to the rudimentar­y village visits experience­d along the way. With the cruise eventually culminatin­g in the capital city of Vientiane, this 10-day itinerary is an experience of total destinatio­n engagement, combining leisure time, daily insightful excursions ashore, and cinematic navigation.

The Mekong River and the people of Laos weave a tapestry of endearing culture perfectly presented by Pandaw for intrepid travelers. Forging the way from a heartrendi­ng past into Laos’ modern-day identity, some things are different now, some things are the same, but like the flow of the mighty river, the country’s evolution is fluid and ever changing.

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Vang Vieng, Laos
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 ??  ?? Left to right: Pandaw delivers both comfort and culture with an internatio­nal culinary team on board, visits to ancient Buddhist temples, and the Kuang Si Waterfalls.
Left to right: Pandaw delivers both comfort and culture with an internatio­nal culinary team on board, visits to ancient Buddhist temples, and the Kuang Si Waterfalls.
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