GREEK NOSTALGIA
A quest on Variety Cruises’ Galileo
WAS IT A QUEST CALLING MY NAME? WAS IT YEARNING TO DO, WELL, ANYTHING IN THE MIDST OF A PANDEMIC? WAS IT NOSTALGIA?
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what the motivation was, except it kept directing me towards Greece, where in the midst of the dark days of the pandemic, I discovered Variety Cruises’ Galileo and its seven-day circuit of the Cyclades Islands from Athens.
The line first began in 1949 as Zeus Tours, and I soon found that Galileo, in addition to being one of the first passenger boats to set sail since the start of the pandemic, happened to be the same Galileo that I had been on some years before in the Greek islands. I had always cherished the memory of those ports and the people I’d met and stayed in touch with; perhaps Pothos, the Greek god of yearning and nostalgia, was calling me back to those more carefree, less COVID-y days. The word nostalgia comes from “nostos,” the Greek word for return by sea, illustrated by Odysseus’ quest for his home on Ithaca. Whatever the inexplicable drive, my quest was, simply, Greece, and Galileo offered the perfect escape. Using my U.K. passport to travel, I was able to get to Greece and book two back-to-back seven-day cruises. Even though the itinerary would be the same both weeks, I knew a mere single visit to any of these islands would not be enough.
From the taxi driving down the Piraeus hill, I saw the ship in port and was immediately excited. It is a 157-foot classic steel motorsailer with spacious, comfortable public areas that were renovated in 2013. The main deck leads into a pleasant dining room and the upper deck has a bar at the front that serves as the gathering spot in the evenings for
drinks, conversation, and music. The top deck is equipped with lounge chairs for sunning in the daytime and stargazing at night. There are 24 ocean-viewing cabins on two decks, all with air-conditioning, mini-fridges, hair dryers, and en suite bathrooms. Galileo normally has a passenger capacity of 49, but it had been reduced to 28 on these cruises. That, plus the daily temperature checks, oxygen checks, and the company’s commitment to sanitary protocols, have made it ideal for these times.
Our itinerary included Poros, Poliegos, Folegandros, Santorini, Paros, Antiparos, Delos, Mykonos, Syros, and Kythnos, with overnight stays in several of the ports. What was noticeably different from my past visits was the absence of any other ships at the ever-popular islands of Santorini and Mykonos. It was both pleasant and strange to be at these tourist meccas with no crowds. Most of the shops and restaurants were open, but fairly quiet. On days when time and tide allowed, the captain would drop anchor so we could swim off the boat. Other times, a zodiac would take us to
“The word nostalgia comes from “nostos,” the Greek word for return by sea, illustrated by Odysseus’ quest for his home on Ithaca. Whatever the unexplainable drive, my quest was, simply, Greece, and Galileo offered the perfect escape. ”
“It may be the history of Greece that draws me back. It is everywhere: the art and the architecture, the magic and the myths. ”
small islands that we had all to ourselves to swim, sun, and explore beaches and caves. Greek Night started with grilled octopus and ouzo and then a feast of local dishes followed by lots of dancing to work it off. Some of the officers and staff displayed their skill at syrtaki (aka Zorba’s dance) and got us all up to give it a go.
The itinerary for the second cruise was originally set to be the same, but as we got underway, we learned that the plans had changed due to weather conditions; we would be sailing through the Ionian Islands instead of a repeat of the Cyclades. I felt very fortunate to visit a different group of islands and embark on a whole new odyssey: Itea, Nafpaktos, Paxos, Antipaxos, Corfu, Ithaca, Aegina, and a transit through the Corinth Canal. It may be the history of Greece that draws me back. It is everywhere: the art and the architecture, the magic and the myths. While it had taken Odysseus ten years to journey home to Ithaca from Corfu, we made the trip in a bit less time on Galileo. Corfu is so rich with ancient and modern history, archeological sites, Venetian architecture, and notable past residents.
A cruise is always a temporary departure from the reality of our normal lives and an entrance into other worlds. On this cruise, each island was a new discovery with its own unique history, landscapes, foods, and customs. My first trip on Galileo had been when I discovered Greece and I felt like I had found my heart’s home. This time, I felt like I’d come home again. This had been a quest, a homecoming by sea, a return to light and life.