Planet Playground
Experience the quaint, coastal charms of Le Lavandou, the pearl of the French Riviera.
Renowned American author Willa Cather was 28 years old in 1902 when she left her Midwest prairie home to travel to England and France. On this trip, she found her favorite place, and it was Le Lavandou. “No books have ever been written about Lavandou, no music or pictures ever came from here, but I know well enough that I shall yearn for it long after I have forgotten London and Paris,” she wrote.
In one way, Cather was wrong: this pretty French hamlet has been a magnet for artists who drew inspiration from its idyllic seaside setting, capturing it in poems, songs, and paintings. She was also right: Le Lavandou, set at the foot of the Massif des Maures, looking out to the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, has hard-to-forget allure. The welcoming city, located between Toulon and SaintTropez in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, hugs over 7 miles of coastline. It’s best known for its 12 beautiful beaches and family-friendly activities. You could be nonstop busy here, snorkeling, scuba diving, sport fishing, and sailing during the day followed by a buzzing nightlife at beachside bars and restaurants. But you’d miss some of lovely Le Lavandou’s slow-paced charms. Here’s another way to enjoy a day in Le Lavandou.
Morning
Grab a quick cappuccino and pastry at La Petite Cantine before heading to Fishermen’s Wharf to see the pescadous bringing in their catch of the day. Le Lavandou was once a thriving fishing village, and this small fleet of traditional fishing boats carries on the tradition. It’s a riot of color and conversation. Ask one of the captains about his luck out at sea and you may hear a few tall fish stories. The fish market, with stalls of just-caught rock fish, John Dorys, sea perch, and more, is right next door. A traditional Provençal market is also held every Thursday on the Place du Marché in the nearby town center.
“There is a rich artistic past in Le Lavandou, centered around neo-impressionist painters who were inspired by the light in this corner of the Var coast.”
Early morning, when the seas are calm, the air is clear and the crowds have yet to arrive, is the best time to go to the beach. Plage du centre-ville is the closest beach to the town center and the busiest, with a slew of water sports and other activities. Skip it for now, and head to the much quieter Plage de Jean Blanc, a protected cove with crystal-clear waters. Further down the road is a footpath that leads to Plage de Layet, where you can shed your clothes and bask in the sun au naturel, if the mood strikes you.
Or, you could go for a morning walk on Sentier du Littoral, a stunning, coastal route that leads from town to a string of beaches. Saint-Clair Beach, called “La Perle,” is a favorite, with a wide swath of soft sand tucked into a sheltered cove and views of the Golden Isles, Le Levant, and PortCros. The horseshoe-shaped La Fossett Beach, known as “La Souriante,” is a quiet stretch of fine sand and calm water. Further down is Aiguebelle Beach, called “La Charmeuse,” with fine golden sand, rocky coves, and crystal-clear water. If you’re an early riser, pack coffee and pastries the night before, grab a blanket, and head here to watch the sunrise.
Another fine walk is the Promenade by the Beach, connecting the city center to the nearby flowerfilled 12th-century village of Bormes-les-Mimosas. There are benches along the wooden boardwalk, and excellent seaside views.
Afternoon
Welcome the afternoon with lunch overlooking Saint-Clair Beach. Le Tamaris Chez Raymond is known for its fresh grilled fish dishes; it also serves one of the best traditional bouillabaisse you’re likely to have in all of Cote d’Azur and beyond. The refined La Pinede, steps from the water, is also a good choice. It has a friendly beach vibe, and a full menu of salads, steaks, and fresh fish; try the cuttlefish a la plancha, followed by the rich chocolate fondant for dessert.
After lunch, take a stroll to discover a little bit about Le Lavandou’s creative history. “There is a rich artistic past in Le Lavandou, centered around neo-impressionist painters who were inspired by the light in this corner of the Var coast,” says Raphael Dupouy, attaché culturel of Le Lavandou. You can learn about it on a self-guided walk along the Chemin des Peintres (The Path of Painters) in the quiet neighborhood of Saint-Clair. Fourteen information panels along the path show works by neo-impressionist painters Henri Edmond Cross, Théo Van Rysselberghe, and Paul Signac, highlighting points of similarity and difference between the scenes captured by the artists and what can be seen today. You can pick up a map at the tourist office in town; guided walks along the path are offered in the summer. Villa Théo is also located along the route, an art center in the former home of the Van Rysselberghe that displays both classic and contemporary exhibitions.
The rest of the afternoon is filled with possibilities. You could visit nearby 13th-century Fort de Brégançon, perched more than 100 feet above the Mediterranean with sweeping views. Napoleon stayed here in 1793 to 1794, and later it became the summer home for French presidents. Take time to walk down to the rugged and rocky Cabasson Beach, or to drive the nearby scenic coastline.
Simply stroll the alleyways in the Old Village, lined with vendors selling local olive oil, tapenade, honey, rosé wine, and other Provençal souvenirs.
You could also visit the Domaine de l’Anglade winery, a small, family-owned coastal vineyard surrounded by lush countryside. Tours and tastings are offered; the wines are quite nice and the grounds are beautiful. Or, simply stroll the alleyways in the Old Village, lined with vendors selling local olive oil, tapenade, honey, rosé wine, and other Provençal souvenirs. Then grab a seat at one of the outdoor cafes along the Place des Boulistes to enjoy a chilled glass of Provençal rosé and watch the old-timers play a game of la pétanque. It’s a great place for people-watching, too.
Evening
Start with a walk along the Plage du centre-ville, and watch as the lights begin to twinkle in the seaside bars and restaurants. Stop in Bar Chez Mimi, a lively place for a pre-dinner cocktail with an outdoor terrace, or Welcome Beach, where you can stick your toes in the sand while taking in the harbor views. For dinner, you can’t beat the views at Le Lodge, with its beachside terrace and value-packed prixfixe menu. Classic French dishes, like duck confit, steak au poivre, and fish stew, are deeply flavored and artfully presented. The contemporary Tam Tam restaurant, across the street from the beach, is a local favorite, serving updated fusion fare that showcases fresh ingredients. Popular Planches et Gamelles, with an outdoor harborside terrace, has a strong farm-to-table ethos and a choice of menus, including vegetarian, prix fixe, and à la carte.
Or, get away from the seaside bustle and find La Pignato de Camille, tucked down a quiet alleyway, serving sophisticated dishes with plenty of flair and flavor. Try dishes like the slow-cooked octopus tentacles or lamb stew with caviar eggplant; you can’t go wrong with the daily risotto, either. When open — normally on Wednesday evenings in the summer — the artisan market is the perfect place to pick up a souvenir, or to meet local artists who are more than happy to chat and offer their own favorite things to see and do in lovely Le Lavandou.