Big Wheel Keep on Turning
Modern-day exploration aboard American Empress
I’D HAD TINA TURNER BELTING OUT PROUD MARY in my head since first planning this cruise adventure through the Pacific Northwest. The closest I’d ever been to a paddlewheel steamboat was the less-than-epic 100-yard, five-minute journey to Tom Sawyer Island in Walt Disney World, so a cruise on the dramatic American Empress stamped the cruise dance card. In the early 19th century, steamboat travel on America’s rivers was the modus operandi for passenger travel. Today, the American Queen Steamboat Company revives the spirit of that era by offering luxury cruises on the muddy Mississippi on the historic American Queen for a delightful nostalgia fix. However, true to my mission of exploring off-the-beaten-track itineraries, choosing to cruise in the Pacific Northwest on American Empress proved to be a prudent alternative. And although the song suggested it, there was no need to leave “a good job in the city, working for the man every night and day.” A flight to Spokane, Washington, was all it took for a week of steamboatin’ on this classic vessel.
WELCOME HOME _ American Empress is a homegrown cruise product to take pride in: Built in the United States, she boasts an all-American crew and a 7- day itinerary that showcases the untamed and pristine beauty of the Columbia and Snake rivers in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States. Think less Mark Twain river nostalgia and more Lewis and Clark purple mountain majesty, less banjo pickin’ and more finger lickin’, a cruise experience melding well-traveled intellects and middle-ofthe-road tourists into a comfortable blend of vacation styles.
The ship is a domestic destination in itself and the first dramatic view is striking. Graced with elegant Victorian design and flanked astern by its colossal red paddlewheel, she validates the dozens of photos taken on first sight. Luxury suites with open balconies swathed in lace-like trim lend credible authenticity to the intended period design. Interior décor evokes a time-honored style with elegant taste coupled with hallways graced by an impressive art collection.
Evening dinners under the opulent chandeliers of the Astoria Dining Room reflect an effective regional influence. Menu selections feature a bounty of locally sourced seafood and fruits, plus steak and poultry choices alongside vegetarian dishes. Complimentary local wines pair nicely with creatively presented dinners. Dining in the alternative River Grill is a popular option at no additional cost.
Daytime entertainment centers around informative lectures presented by the onboard riverlorian, who provides guests with an opportunity to closer identify with the history and geography of the area. Nightly entertainment is presented in the cozy Show Lounge by a talented husband-wife team who also serve as the ship’s cruise directors. An engaging pianist performs nightly in the Paddlewheel Lounge at the aft of the vessel. The entire onboard ambiance re-creates a legendary era spiced up with luxurious modern conveniences. And the contagious enthusiasm of the staff makes for an energetic, yet relaxing, scenario for the week.
ROLLIN’ ON THE RIVER _ Cruising the river wilderness exposes the synergy of nature’s creativity alongside modern marvels of ingenuity. Vistas of towering basalt cliffs sprinkled with prospering vineyards and vivid landscapes contrast the massive dams and hydroelectric plants that have tamed the river, facilitating navigation for commercial shipping.
At each port of call, guests have the opportunity to enjoy signature excursions or select optional premier adventures at very reasonable rates. The cruise line motor coaches follow the vessel along the route, meeting guests in each port. Although included excursions are guided with structured itineraries, they contain a welcome hopon/hop-off option, allowing for a personalized tempo.
Our 7- day adventure in Oregon and Washington included port visits to The Dalles, Richland, Stevenson, and Clarkston, before culminating with visits to Astoria and Portland. Tours retrace the influence of the Oregon Trail and the route of the Lewis and Clark expedition, visit historic museums and homes, and explore the lives of the Nez Perce Indians and influential settlers of the region.
Thrill seekers will revel in optional excursions such as an adrenaline-pumping jet boat adventure through Hell’s Canyon, a guided journey to the 600foot Multnomah Falls, or a stop at Vista House, which was built in 1917 on one of the most scenic points on the Historic Columbia River Highway that offers humbling views of nature’s wonder. Experience unbelievable ingenuity with a visit to Bonneville Lock and Dam and its massive hydropower plant. Wine lovers will savor visits to established wineries.
When it comes to alternative cruise experiences, American Empress offers a hiatus from the museums and cathedrals of Europe or the heat of the Caribbean. The ship, the excursions, and the crew all contribute to the legacy of America the Beautiful, which is certainly worth exploring.