The day the Pope came to Ireland in Knock
Almost 40 years ago, Pope John Paul II paid a three-day visit to the Republic. Ahead of his successor Francis’ arrival in Dublin next weekend, two writers, one based in Northern Ireland, and the other travelling to Knock, Co Mayo, re visit their memories
When it was officially announced, on July 21, 1979, that Pope John Paul II would be visiting Ireland in late-September/ early-October, both Ian Paisley and the Orange Order issued statements saying that Northern Ireland, “must not be included in his itinerary”.
A now-declassified document from the US State Department at the time, noted: “Ian Paisley used 16th-century language in speaking of Pope John Paul’s visit to Ireland, but our impression is that on the whole Unionist (Protestant) leaders decided not to rise to the bait of a few Papal phrases, or saw nothing worth troubling with. Paisley reportedly told a Press conference the Pope was a liar, imposter and anti-Christ and that his visit was intended to bring political pressure on the UK Government in favour of Irish unity. Majority leaders otherwise kept silent... and the Belfast News Letter continued its overtly positive approach.”
I was 24 at the time the visit was announced and involved with the UUP. Shortly afterwards — I don’t remember the exact date — it was known that the Pope would be visiting Armagh. I grew up in Armagh. I knew it well. I have no recollection of unionism there being spooked, or threatened, by the visit.
Indeed, I remember a family friend and local businessman welcoming the prospect of tens of thousands flocking to the city and the huge potential benefits for pubs, hotels, guest houses, business generally and tourism. And, while there was no doubt that Paisley’s view reflected a strand of evangelical Protestantism, there was no sense that unionism generally was particularly put out by the prospect of the visit.
So, I’ve always wondered if the IRA’s killing of 18 soldiers in Warrenpoint and the murder of Lord Mountbatten in Mullaghmore (both on the same day, August 27, 1979) was some sort of perverse reaction to that sanguinity.
Less than 48 hours later, a statement from the Vatican announced that the Pope wouldn’t be visiting Armagh and would, instead, go to Drogheda, which also happened to be in the Archdiocese of Armagh. But the events of August 27 eclipsed everything else in Northern Ireland for the next few weeks.
This was the era before rolling news and multi-channels. I don’t actually remember much of the coverage of the visit from either the local BBC, or UTV, and I certainly wasn’t glued to a screen, or radio. Many people had no access to RTE at the time, which did have wall-to-wall coverage.
It wasn’t a case of avoiding the coverage as such (and I speak as someone who loves big news stories and events), more a case of not being aware of round-theclock coverage in Northern Ireland at the time.
But, even from my limited viewing, I do remember being struck by the sheer numbers of people involved. The Pope, in showbiz language, was huge; a star attraction able to draw a third of the Irish population when he celebrated Mass in Phoenix Park, while hundreds of thousands more flocked to every other event. Great numbers crossed the border to see him.
And those numbers made me think about both the Catholic Church and the Irish state. Why did the Church have that power and influence? In political terms did the old line about ‘Home Rule means Rome Rule’ actually have substance?
Wasn’t it dangerous and anti-democratic to have such a close link between Church and state? Wasn’t this hard evidence that a united Ireland — and it was just a republican dream at that point — would be a freezing cold place for unionism collectively and Protestantism, in particular?
In many ways, Pope Francis
(left) is a bigger star, but he may not be a bigger draw. Ireland has changed. The people are no longer in awe of the Catholic Church, or fearful of being seen to be publicly opposed to Vatican doctrine.
The Church has been hugely damaged by a series of scandals and cover-ups and even Francis — who assumed office on a tidal wave of goodwill — is coming under increasing criticism as he tries to hold conservatives and traditionalists together.
He cannot be seen to criticise decisions taken in recent referenda; but nor can he ignore the concerns of those hundreds of thousands who oppose samesex-marriage and changes to the laws on abortion.
There has been barely a peep from unionism about this visit — even from within the DUP. The main Protestant Churches have been welcoming and some of their leaders will meet the Pope. There will be far more coverage in Northern Ireland this time. No unionist today, or Protestant evangelical, speaks of ‘Rome Rule’ or mocks a ‘priest-ridden’ state.
The year 1979 was about a powerful, hugely influential political/religious leader. Pope Francis doesn’t have that power, or that influence. This is a different kind of visit and event altogether.
Except in one respect — apparently, it’s still not an appropriate moment to visit Northern Ireland.
Almost 40 years ago, in the company of 300,000 members of the faithful, I was at Killineer to report on John Paul II’s appeal to paramilitaries to lay down their arms.
“I wish to speak to all men and women engaged in violence,” he said. “I appeal to you, in language of passionate pleading. On my knees, I beg you to turn away from the path of violence and to return to the ways of peace.”
That visit, near Drogheda, was as near to Northern Ireland as the Pope would get. A planned Mass in St Patrick’s Cathedral in Armagh had been called off as his advisers feared he would be a target for loyalist paramilitaries.
There were even whispers of lines being crossed and busloads of children being targeted — all conjecture and rumour, but powerful enough at the time.
When the papal visit was announced, it was immediately