Celebrating 12 of the best lighthouses in Ireland
THEY’VE BEEN A PART OF OUR COASTLINE SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL, WONDERFUL STRUCTURES THAT IN THEMSELVES ARE GREAT FEATS OF ENGINEERING AND CONSTRUCTION. HERE MARY ROSE MCCARTHY GIVES A BRIEF GLIMPSE INTO TWELVE GREAT LIGHTHOUSES OF IRELAND
PERHAPS BECAUSE of their location, often looking as if perched on the edge of the land, lighthouses have long interested us. In 2016, Irish Lights, who are the commissioners responsible for overseeing lighthouses, set up an all-Ireland tourism initiative with Bord Fáilte, focusing on 12 lighthouses on coasts around the island.
In conjunction with local tourist and community development groups at some locations, it is possible to stay in the original dwellings once occupied by keepers and their families. At other sites, accommodation is easily found nearby.
The first aids to navigation were fires lit along the shoreline to guide vessels safely to land. Then came wooden structures, succeeded by the stone built towers we see today. Some of the towers also had fog signals.
With advances in technology, it is no longer necessary to have personnel living and tending the light at these coastal locations.
Fog signals are no longer required either due to more sophisticated systems of navigation.
But lighthouses still play a vital role in aiding maritime safety for commerce and for leisure.
St. John’s Point, Co. Donegal.
This lighthouse is at the end of a long peninsula and appears miles from anywhere. Designed by George Halpin, constructed of cut granite, and painted white, its light was first exhibited on 4th of November 1831. For years prior to that, merchants, traders, and seamen of Killybegs looked for the establishment of a light to protect the North shore of Donegal Bay.
There are two keepers’ residences on the site, named Clipper and Schooner which are now run as holiday lets. Operated by the Irish Landmark Trust they make a perfect base from which to explore all that Donegal has to offer.
The station was converted to unwatched in the early 1930s and in July 1942, the light was changed to flashing. The Spanish Armada in 1588 were driven off course by violent storms. Twenty four of the fleet went aground including three wrecks which can be seen on nearby Streedagh Strand.
There is plenty to do in the area including taking in the breath taking views, good fishing, walking or surfing on nearby Rossnowlagh. Killybegs Heritage Trail is about 25 minutes drive away and Bundoran adventure park approximately 55 minutes away.
Or just stay indoors in the characterful tastefully restored cottages, listen to the sea and imagine life as a ‘keeper of the light’ in this wild and beautiful place.
Ballycotton, Co. Cork
Ballycotton Lighthouse is one of only two black lighthouses on the island of Ireland. Sirrus, the first paddle steamer to cross the Atlantic completely under steam, went aground near this site in dense fog. This prompted the building of the lighthouse.
Designed by George Halpin, it is built on Ballycotton island close to the shore but accessible only by boat. The light was first exhibited on June 1st 1851, its ‘character’ was flashing white every ten seconds, and in clear weather was visible at a distance of 18 miles.
At first lighthouse families stayed on the island in keepers dwellings, and children rowed ashore to school on the mainland. However, in 1896 it was decided to make Ballycotton, reliving, meaning that families now lived ashore rather than in the difficult conditions on the island. The light was converted to electric in 1975 and became fully automated in 1992.
There are no facilities for overnight stays at Ballycotton. Lighthouse visits are organised by Ballycottonlighthouseboat tours. Arriving at the island by boat visitors are taken along the original path the light keepers walked and can enjoy the unique flora and fauna of the island. Visit the lighthouse and enjoy the stunning views from the balcony. Boat trips take 15 minutes each way, the island is rugged which makes the trip unsuitable for pushchairs or wheelchairs. Ballycotton is part of Ireland’s Ancient East and has much to offer in accommodation and restaurants. It is 45 minutes’ drive from Cork city, Midleton and Castlemartyr are in easy driving distance. Fishing, swimming, walks and nature watching, are some of the outdoor pursuits the area offers.
Blackhead, Co. Antrim
This lighthouse is on the edge of a cliff on Belfast Lough. It was built and the light first exhibited in 1902. At the same time, a fog signal came into operation. The tower designed by A Douglass is built of granite.
This is another site managed by the Irish Landmark Trust and the three former keeper’s dwellings have been restored with antique furniture and some artefacts from the times when keepers kept watch on the waters. One of these is a pipe whistle system used to wake up those whose turn it was to take the next watch.
Blackhead Light guided many ships across the North Atlantic.
Clare Island, Co. Mayo
This is the only lighthouse on the island of Ireland which offers B&B accommodation and communal evening dining. Set on island you leave the car on the Mayo mainland and enjoy a stay on this historic island once the stronghold of pirate Queen Grace O’ Malley.
The first light established on the island, built by the Marquis of Sligo caught fire in 1813. A temporary light was set up until the new lighthouse and keepers dwellings were built in 1818. The ruins of the old lighthouse and the dwellings are still visible on the island.
There are also ruins of a Cistercian abbey known as St. Brigid’s on the island where many of the O’ Malley clan are buried. Irish pirate Grace O’ Malley is rumoured to be buried here also. Operated by Clareisland.com the lighthouse is a perfect place to get away from it all. Glorious scenery combined with many activities including music, crafts, cycling walking, and swimming make it an ideal and very unique place to stay.
After 159 years of unbroken service, the light on Clare island was extinguished in 1965 as a decision to place a light on Achill beg was taken.
Fanad Head, Co. Donegal
Another lighthouse where the keepers’ dwellings have been restored and are available as overnight accommodation Fanad Lighthouse is in the Gaeltacht and along the Wild Atlantic Way. It has also been described as one of
the most beautiful lighthouses in the world.
There is much to do in the area including stunning beaches, breath taking views along the coastal cliffs and diving in the clear waters.
Whales, porpoises and dolphins are regularly seen in the waters surrounding the lighthouse.
Perched at the entrance to Lough Swilly this lighthouse also came into being as the result of the shipwreck: the Saldana with all hands lost.
The lighthouse designed by George Halpin first exhibited its light on Patrick’s Day 1817. The fixed light showed red to sea and white to land. In 1917, a British naval vessel the SS Laurentic hit two mines at the entrance to Lough Swilly and sank with all three hundred on board. Seemingly, it was also carrying a secret cargo of gold of which 22 bars are still missing. That might be an incentive to take up deep water diving during a stay at the dwellings.
Operated by Fanadlighthouse. com, it is also possible to tour the lighthouse and climb the tower to experience the spectacular sea views. Guides explain the history of the area and recount tales of lighthouse keepers work in times past.
Galley Head, Co. Cork
This is another property operated by the Irish Landmark Trust offering self-catering accommodation in the two former keepers’ dwellings. Galley Head is built on Dundeady Island on one of the southernmost tips of Ireland and near to the award winning town of Clonakilty, famous for black pudding.
When the light was first exhibited in January 1878, it was the most powerful light in the world at the time. Lord Bandon campaigned for a lighthouse; again because of so many shipwrecks in the area. J.S Sloane, engineer in chief to the Commissioners of Irish Lights, designed the lighthouse and its outbuildings. These included the gas house as at the time there was a great interest in using gas as a source of power for the light. The tower is 69 feet high, painted white and at the edge of a sheer cliff.
This light shines to sea and also to land. The story is that the Sultan of Turkey, while staying at Castlefreake, asked his host, Lord Carberry why the light did not also flash on land. Lord Carberry spoke to ‘friends in high places’ and the request was granted. It is worth mentioning that at the request of locals the light still flashes landward today.
A new light was installed in 1907 increasing the range to 28 miles. The station converted to electricity in 1969 and was automated in 1979. Keepers at the lighthouse in 1915 would have observed the passing of the Lusitania and many vessels during the two world wars. This light along the Wild Atlantic way and close to many tourist amenities and attractions is most certainly worth a visit if not an overnight stay.
Hook Head, Co. Wexford
This is the oldest operational lighthouse in the world, being in existence for 800 years. There is a long history to this lighthouse having first begun by monks ‘keeping a light’ to warn passing vessels of the dangers of nearby land. The tower is believed to have been constructed around 1172 and today remains in excellent condition.
There is no overnight accommodation at Hook Head but tours of the light house including the four storey tower are arranged via hookheritage.ie . Tours include visits to the gift shop and the nearby café.
Monks looked after the light until 1641. Lighthouse families lived at the lighthouse until 1977. In 1972, it was converted to electricity, and automated in 1996.
Tour guides share a detailed history of how this light came into being as well as pointing out the variety of wildlife that can be observed here, including humpback and fin whales. The walls of the lighthouse are up to four meters thick. It is believed the phrase ‘by hook or by crook’ originated here.
LoopHead,Co. Clare
Loop head is another lighthouse where one of the keepers’ dwellings has been converted to holiday accommodation and is managed by the Irish Landmark Trust. It is built on the remote Loop Head Peninsula in West county Clare. Like other dramatic locations, it boasts an abundance of whale and dolphin life as well as many often raucous sea birds.
The first light here dates to around 1670 and consisted of an open brazier built on a platform on top of a three roomed dwelling. This was replaced in 1820 but as shipping increased in the Shannon Estuary demands from leading Limerick aldermen and merchants finally resulted in the tower that is seen today. This lighthouse was also designed by George Halpin. This new tower was completed in 1854 and the light first exhibited on May 1st of that year. It is a white light which flashes four times every twenty seconds.
The site converted to electricity in 1971 and became fully automatic in 1991. An interactive display in the keepers’ cottage tells the history of this lighthouse. Tours of the tower are also available and from the balcony, weather permitting, it is possible to see south as far as the Blasket Islands, and north as far as Connemara’s Twelve Bens.
RathlinWestLight,Co. Antrim
This is the only ‘upside down’ lighthouse in Ireland and accessible only by boat. Rathlin Island is just 18 miles from the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland and is home to a huge variety of bird life. There is no holiday accommodation at this lighthouse but tours are offered by the RSPB.co.uk. Boats depart from Ballycastle, Co. Antrim and guides are on hand to help identify a variety of birds.
The lighthouse was designed by Engineer-in-Chief, of Irish Lights C.W. Scott and built into the cliff face. Entry to the lighthouse was through the ‘attic’ and progress downwards to the light. A special pier with an inclined railway from pier to lighthouse had to be developed to facilitate the construction works. The light went into operation on 10th March 1919.
Keepers lived in this unique location until 1983 when it became fully automated. The fog signal known as the Rathlin Bull could be heard up to thirty kilometres away but was taken out of service in 1995.
It is believed Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland, took refuge on Rathlin during a battle with the British in 1306. It seems after seeing a spider make repeated attempts at spinning a web, Robert the Bruce was inspired to keep up the struggle for Scottish Independence.
Valentia Island, Co. Kerry
Valentia Island was connected to the mainland at Portmagee Kerry when a bridge was constructed in 1970. The lighthouse here is steeped in history and while it is not residential, there are many places offering hospitality nearby.
The lighthouse, another built by George Halpin, is on Cromwell Point the site of Cromwell Fleetwood Fort, which guarded against the threat of invaders. Cannons from that time still overlook the harbour. Tours of the lighthouse, run by valentiaislandtourism, take in the stunning views from the tower from where on a clear day it is possible to see Skellig Michael.
Also from the tower, the fossilised print of a Tetra pod, the first dinosaur to step on these shores over 300 million years ago can be seen. The first light was exhibited here in 1841. Light keepers and their families lived here until 1947 when the lighthouse went automatic.
Valentia Island is also the point from which the first transatlantic cable was laid between Ireland and New Foundland, the shortest point across the sea.
WicklowHead,Co. Wicklow
This eight sided tower lighthouse has been restored by the Irish Landmark Trust and makes a great place from which to explore all that county Wicklow has to offer. There is a stunning sea view on one side and views landwards on the other three sides. There are six rooms all arranged vertically. Climb 109 steps up to the kitchen at the top of the tower or bask in the sun on the window seat. All the rooms are octagonal in shape.
Initially in the late 1700s, two lights were built on Wicklow Head. This was to avoid confusion to shipping between the single light at Hook and the single light at Howth. The current cut-stone tower was built in 1818 and the first source of light was burning twenty tallow candles. Eventually this light house converted to electricity in 1976, and became automated in 1994.
The Wicklow Mountains are a haven for hillwalkers and the heritage site of Glendalough is also nearby. Walk the cliff path to see the seals. Powerscourt waterfalls, the Sally Gap and Wicklow Gaol are some of the other nearby attractions. Watching the unfolding panorama that is the constantly changing sea and being lulled by its rhythms may be all that is required of a stay in this lighthouse.
TheGreatLight,Co. Antrim
This light is open twenty four hours a day and is free to visit. It is situated in the iconic Titanic Quarter of Belfast and shone a powerful light out into Belfast Lough to guide mariners.
It is one of the largest optics of its kind ever built. The Great Light weights ten tonnes, stands seven meters high and is 130 years old. It is located on the Maritime Mile, a stretch between the Titanic Slips and HMS Caroline.
The lens, known after its inventor Augustin Jean Fresnel, as the Fresnel lens, magnifies and refracts light into one powerful beam. The original optic consisted of 18 lenses, six in each of its three tiers, and covered 60 degrees. It was constructed in Paris. The exceptional light produced one of the world’s strongest ever lighthouse beams.