The road less travelled in West Cork

The People’s Republic of West Cork is famous for its hospitality, breath-taking beaches and intriguing islands. This year, Fáilte Ireland is encouraging visitors to turn off the main driving routes and get lost in the culture of a region surrounded by the

Take the Macroom Road (N22) from Cork and discover a different route to West Cork. Turn left just after Lissarda onto R584 and travel through the Múscraí (Muskerry) Gaeltacht to Gougane Barra around 70 minutes from Cork City.

The area around Gúgán Barra (Gougane Barra) is part of this Gaeltacht and made up of the villages of Béal Átha an Ghaorthaidh (Ballingeary), Cúil Aodha (Coolea), Bhaile Mhúirne (Ballyvourney) and Cill na Martyra (Kilnamartyra).

Gougane Barra was home to the first ever Irish-language teaching college in the country, opened in 1903.

The Irish-language movement contributed significantly to Ireland’s struggle for independence around a hundred years ago.

Gougane Barra

Gougane Barra itself is a place rich in history and culture, and set in a spectacular landscape. Visit St. Finbarr’s Oratory and Cells, a place of veneration and pilgrimage, sit nestled on a tiny island in Gougane Barra Lake that stretches for a mile along the valley floor and is reached by a short causeway.

St. Finbarr is said to have been led by an angel from the source of the River Lee at Gougane Barra to its marshy mouth, where he founded his most important monastery, ‘out of which grew the see and the city of Cork’.

Legend has it that Finbarr banished the great serpent Lú from the lake here and as the beast fled, Lú created the channel, which is now the River Lee.

St. Finbarr’s Well and an ancient cemetery are both located near to the island, just next door to the Gougane Barra Hotel.

The Coillte Forest Park at Gugane Barra offers walks for all levels of ability. Walk up the Derrynasaggart Mountains, which ring the lake, accessible from the forest park or oratory.

Stop for a bite to eat at Cronin’s Bar & Café, which can be enjoyed by the lake.

Macroom Buffalo Farm

In the afternoon head to the Macroom Buffalo farm for a tour with the ‘buffalo lady’ Dorothy O’Tuama of O’Tuama Tours, which is located roughly 30 minutes away in Kilnamartyra. Here you can get up close and personal with water buffalo and even get to pet the buffalo calves on Ireland’s premier water buffalo farm. Before finding out how buffalo mozzarella is made and even getting to sample some of the farm’s artisan creations.

Carriganass Castle

If you have more time travel another 30-minutes from Kilnamartyra to the historic Carriganass Castle on the outskirts of Kealkill village at the heart of West Cork, where you can explore the picturesque castle grounds.

Walkers take advantage of the way-marked routes that wind their way past this amazing monument at Carraig an Easa - ‘the rock of the waterfall’ and the Kealkill Stone Circle.

IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME

Before departing this mystical part of Cork, head for the Beara Peninsula. With its end-of-the-world feel, a trip around the Beara Peninsula is the ultimate way to get away from it all. A drive right around the peninsula makes for an unforgettable day.

Take in the immensity of the peninsula’s rugged beauty and explore its many national archaeological monuments and colourful towns and villages.

Or rather than driving you could bring your hiking boots and hike your way around a section of the Beara Way a 206km distance trail which can be completed in full over nine days and find some of the best archaeological sites and scenery in Ireland.

These include Dunboy Castle near Castletownbere, which was home to O’Sullivan Bere, Ireland’s last Gaelic chieftain or meet the ‘Hag of Beara’ with a visit Killcatherine Church with its preChristian stones.

Make sure to also stop off at Allihies where you can visit the Copper Mine Museum to immerse yourself in history or relax on the sands at Ballydonegan beach.