MARY BERRY, PART TWO
In her new book, Mary Berry shares personal all-time favourites, updated for today
Welcome to a second helping from my new collection of essential, classic recipes. For me, ingredients are the star of the show and a classic dish is one that shows them off to their best advantage, with the maximum flavour and minimum of fuss.
Simplicity is the key – think of a roast bursting with glorious savouriness such as my Roast Pork with Crackling on page 24. Over the years that I’ve been cooking, so many recipes have come and gone, and it’s wonderful to see a few neglected classics making a comeback. Kedgeree (right), a big favourite of mine, was originally an Indian dish, of course, but it’s been a classic here since Victorian times. For me nothing beats that wonderful combination of taste and texture: the smoky fish and spiced rice with the soft-boiled egg and fried onion topping. There are some lovely teatime treats among this week’s recipes, too: a new take on my Victoria Sandwich (page 33) and my two-toned swirly ‘marble cake’ (page 23), another welcome revival. And for an easy, guaranteed-to-please dessert, do try the divine Chocolate Truffle Pots on page 22. I remember making these when I was first married!
Kedgeree
One of my absolute favourite dishes and a really tasty combination of flavours – the fried onion topping and soft-boiled egg complement the smoky fish and spiced rice. Check halfway through cooking and if a little dry, add more stock. For more crunch and extra flavour, add a topping of about 25g toasted flaked almonds.
SERVES 4-6
COOK TIME 30 minutes
400g (14oz) undyed smoked haddock fillet, skin on 30g (1oz) butter 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 300g (11oz) basmati rice 1 tbsp curry powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 500ml-600ml (18fl oz-1 pint) vegetable stock 150g (5oz) button mushrooms, sliced juice of 1 small lemon 4 tbsp double cream salt and freshly ground black pepper
TO GARNISH
1 large onion, sliced thinly 3 large eggs ½ small bunch of coriander, chopped
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
2 Lay a piece of foil on a baking sheet. Sit the haddock, skin side down, on top and place half the butter on top of the fish. Season with pepper and a little salt, then fold in the sides of the foil to make a parcel, scrunching together the open edges to seal.
3 Bake for 15-18 minutes or until the fish is cooked. It should be opaque and flake easily. Peel off the skin, removing and discarding any obvious bones, and set aside, keeping it wrapped in foil so it stays warm and holds the juices.
4 Meanwhile, pour half the oil into a large frying pan over a high heat. Add the onion and fry for 2-4 minutes. Add the rice, curry powder and turmeric and stir together for about a minute, so that the rice is coated in the spices.
5 Pour in 500ml (18fl oz) of the stock, cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Allow to boil for 2 minutes, then reduce the heat and simmer very gently for 12-15 minutes, adding more stock if needed, or until all of the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is just cooked but still with a slight bite. Remove from the heat and set aside with the lid on while you finish making the kedgeree.
6 While the rice is cooking, prepare the garnish. Pour the remaining oil into another frying pan, add the sliced onion and fry over a medium heat for about 10 minutes until soft and golden, then tip on to a plate and set aside.
7 Place the eggs in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Cook for 4-5 minutes or until soft-boiled, then plunge immediately into cold water to stop the eggs cooking further. Carefully peel away the shell and cut into quarters (see tips).
8 Wipe out the pan used for cooking the onion, add the rest of the butter and melt over a high heat. Add the mushrooms and fry for about 4 minutes until browned.
9 Tip the fried mushrooms into the cooked rice with the lemon juice and cream and mix together carefully, so that the mushrooms are evenly distributed. Add the haddock with all of its buttery juices to the rice and gently fold in. Use a spatula, allowing the fish to flake but keeping a few distinct pieces, and mix everything together, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
10 Spoon the kedgeree into a warmed serving dish and garnish with the golden sliced onion, chopped coriander and soft-boiled eggs.
Velvety smooth, light and chocolatey, this mousse is divine. The truffle on the top gives an extra crunch – buy them if you would rather not make them! Use a whisky cream liqueur or any chocolate or coffee cream liqueur of your choice.
MAKES 6 pots
CHILLING TIME a minimum of 6 hours
FOR THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
100g (4oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces 50g (2oz) caster sugar 2 large egg yolks 1 tbsp whisky cream liqueur, eg Baileys 300ml (10fl oz) double cream
FOR THE TRUFFLE BALLS
4 digestive biscuits 1-2 tbsp whisky cream liqueur, eg Baileys 100g (4oz) white chocolate, broken into pieces cocoa powder, for dusting
1 You will need six small wine glasses, sundae glasses or ceramic pots.
2 Place the dark chocolate in a food processor and process for 1 minute or until just a few pieces remain in the otherwise powdery chocolate mixture. Alternatively, finely grate the chocolate.
3 Measure the sugar and 6 tablespoons of water into a small saucepan and heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat and boil briskly for a few seconds until the liquid has become a thin syrup.
4 Set the food processor running and carefully pour in the hot syrup through the feed tube on to the chocolate so it melts and becomes liquid. Add just a little more boiling water if some unmelted chocolate remains. Add the egg yolks and process for a few seconds before adding the whisky cream liqueur. If you are not using a food processor, add the hot syrup to the chocolate to melt it before beating the ingredients together.
5 In a separate bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks, then fold in the chocolate mixture. Reserve 3 tablespoons of the mousse in a medium bowl before spooning the rest into the glasses. Place in the fridge to set for 6 hours or overnight.
6 Meanwhile make the truffle balls. Place the biscuits in a freezer bag and finely crush with a rolling pin. Add the crushed biscuits to the reserved mousse, followed by the whisky cream liqueur. Mix well and shape into six balls, each about the size of a small walnut, then place in the fridge to set for 10-15 minutes.
7 Melt the white chocolate in a small bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water. Insert a cocktail stick into each of the balls, then dip into the melted chocolate and swirl around until coated. Place on a piece of baking paper and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes until firm.
8 Remove the chocolate pots from the fridge just before serving (see tip), place a truffle ball on top of each one and dust with a little cocoa powder.
Chocolate & vanilla swirl cake
Sometimes called marble cake, this is the perfect slice to go with a cuppa. Also good served warm as a dessert with custard.
SERVES 8-10
COOK TIME 40-45 minutes, plus cooling
225g (8oz) caster sugar 225g (8oz) self-raising flour 225g (8oz) butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 1 tsp baking powder 2 tbsp milk 1 tsp vanilla extract 4 large eggs 2 tbsp cocoa powder 1-1½ tbsp boiling water icing sugar, for dusting
1 You will need a 23cm (9in) round, loose-bottomed cake tin and two piping bags, each with a wide plain nozzle or cut end (see tips). Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4, then grease the tin with butter and line the base with a disc of baking paper.
2 Measure the sugar and flour into a large bowl with the butter, baking powder, milk and vanilla extract. Add the eggs and beat with an electric hand whisk until light and smooth.
3 Spoon half this mixture into a separate bowl. Mix the cocoa powder with enough of the boiling water to make a thick paste (see tips), then stir into the batter in one bowl. Spoon the chocolate mixture into one piping bag and the rest of the cake batter (the vanilla mixture) into the other.
4 Pipe 2 tablespoons of vanilla mixture into the centre of the prepared cake tin to form a circle. Pipe a ring of chocolate mixture around the vanilla. Continue to pipe alternating rings of vanilla and chocolate so it looks like an archery target. If you have any cake mixture left in the piping bags by the time you reach the edge of the tin, go back over some of the rings you have already made.
5 Level the top of the cake and bake in the oven for 40-45 minutes or until well risen and springy to the touch. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then remove from the tin and place on a wire rack to cool down completely. Dust with icing sugar to serve.
Roast loin of pork with crackling
Loin pork is a delicious, moist cut and easy to carve. Good crackling is all about the preparation before it goes into the oven: the oil will crisp the skin and the salt draws out extra moisture, drying it out and, of course, adding flavour. I have taken the crackling off the joint and cut it into strips to get it very crisp.
SERVES 6
COOK TIME 1½ hours
2 tbsp sunflower oil 1.5kg (3lb) loin of pork, boned and rolled, skin scored (see tips) a large pinch of salt 2 large onions, sliced
FOR THE GRAVY 50g (2oz) butter 3 tbsp plain flour 200ml (7fl oz) white wine 300ml (10fl oz) hot chicken stock 2 tsp redcurrant jelly a dash of Worcestershire sauce
1 Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, then add half the sunflower oil to a roasting tin and place in the oven to heat up.
2 Dab the skin of the pork with kitchen paper to remove any moisture, then rub the rest of the sunflower oil and a large pinch of salt into the skin. Remove the roasting tin from the oven, add the sliced onions and toss them in the hot oil. Push the onions into the centre of the tin to make a little pile and sit the pork on top.
3 Roast in the oven for about 1 hour 20 minutes or until the juices run clear and the skin of the pork is golden and nearly crisp.
4 Remove from the oven. Using a small sharp knife, remove the crackling from the loin in one piece. Use a sharp pair of scissors to snip the crackling into long, thin strips. Arrange the strips on a baking tray lined with baking paper and place in the oven to crisp up for about 5-10 minutes, turning halfway through, until golden and crisp all over (see tips). Meanwhile, cover the pork with foil and leave to rest while you make the gravy.
5 Discard the onions. Add the butter, melt the flour into the fat in the tin and stir into a roux over a medium heat. Pour in the wine and stock, then bring to the boil and stir until the gravy has thickened and reduced by a third. Stir in the redcurrant jelly so that it dissolves, and add the Worcestershire sauce. Strain through a fine sieve into a warmed jug.
6 Serve slices of pork with pieces of crunchy crackling and the gravy and, if you like, with some apple sauce on the side.
Malayan chicken curry
Classic, rich and deep in flavour. My husband lived in Malaysia – Malaya, as it was then – for a time in his youth so he loves a homemade curry. He raves about this one’s lovely, authentic-tasting flavours.
SERVES 4-6
COOK TIME 25-30 minutes
2-3 tbsp sunflower oil 4 large skinless and boneless chicken breasts, sliced into 3cm (1¼ in) pieces 2 large onions, sliced 2cm (¾ in) knob of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated (see tip) 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp medium curry powder ½ tsp turmeric powder ¼ tsp ground cloves 200ml (7fl oz) chicken stock 1 tbsp mango chutney, plus extra to serve 200ml (7fl oz) double cream 4 dried curry leaves salt and freshly ground black pepper a few sprigs of coriander, to serve
1 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large deep frying pan. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and fry in two batches over a high heat for 3-4 minutes until golden and sealed. Remove from the pan and set aside.
2 Add the remaining oil if needed, tip in the onions and fry over a medium heat for 10 minutes until soft. Add the ginger, garlic and spices and fry for between 30 seconds and 1 minute. Pour in the stock, add the mango chutney and bring to the boil. Boil for a couple of minutes to reduce the liquid slightly, then add the cream and curry leaves and season with salt and pepper.
3 Bring back up to the boil, then add the chicken, cover with a lid and gently simmer for 5 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
4 Remove the curry leaves, decorate with the coriander and serve with rice and extra mango chutney.
Warm fondant brownies
The gooiest of brownies, moist and soft, and ideal as a decadent dessert to serve with ice cream. Wowwee, delicious! These don’t contain flour so are perfect for anyone who can’t tolerate gluten.
MAKES 16 brownies
COOK TIME 30-35 minutes, plus cooling
250g (9oz) butter, cubed, plus extra for greasing 350g (12oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces 300g (11oz) dark muscovado sugar 6 large eggs 75g (3oz) ground almonds
1 You will need a 23cm x 30cm (9in x 12in) traybake tin. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4, then grease the tin with butter and line with baking paper.
2 Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl, add the butter and set over a small saucepan of gently simmering water. Heat through until runny and melted.
3 Measure the sugar into a bowl, add the eggs and whisk until all the sugar has been incorporated. Carefully pour in the melted chocolate mixture and stir until evenly mixed, then fold in the ground almonds and gently stir to combine.
4 Pour into the prepared tin and bake in the oven for about 30-35 minutes or until a light crust forms on top and the mixture is firm around the edges but still soft in the middle.
5 Leave to cool in the tin, to let the brownies set, then cut into squares (see tip) and serve with ice cream.
Chocolate & whisky cream roulade
In the past I have always covered the baked roulade with a damp tea towel and left it overnight. Now I find there is no need to do this. Simple, but indulgent and luxurious, and pleasantly alcoholic!
SERVES 8-10
COOK TIME 20 minutes, plus cooling
butter, for greasing 175g (6oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces 175g (6oz) caster sugar 6 large eggs, separated 2 tbsp cocoa powder, sifted icing sugar, for dusting
FOR THE TOPPING
100g (4oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces 50g (2oz) white chocolate, broken into pieces cocoa powder, for dusting
FOR THE FILLING
300ml (10fl oz) double cream 3 tbsp whisky cream liqueur such as Baileys or Kahlua
1 You will need a 23cm x 33cm (9in x 13in) Swiss roll tin. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4, then lightly grease the tin with butter and line with baking paper, pushing it right into the corners.
2 First, make the sponge. Place the chocolate in a bowl set over a saucepan of gently simmering water, making sure the bowl does not touch the water or the chocolate may overheat. Allow to melt over the heat, then remove from the heat, stir and leave to cool.
3 Place the sugar and egg yolks in a large bowl and whisk with an electric hand whisk until light and creamy. Add the cooled chocolate and stir until evenly blended.
4 In a separate, spotlessly clean bowl, whisk the egg whites into firm peaks but not too stiff. Stir a large spoonful of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to help loosen it. Mix gently, then fold in the remaining egg whites, followed by the sifted cocoa powder. Try not to knock out too much air from the egg whites while making sure they are evenly blended.
5 Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and gently level the surface, then bake in the oven for about 20 minutes until firm to the touch. Remove the cooked sponge from the oven and leave in the tin until cold.
6 While the sponge is cooking, prepare the topping. Place the dark and white chocolate in separate bowls, each set over a pan of gently simmering water, and allow to melt. Pour the dark chocolate on to a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Zigzag the white chocolate over the dark chocolate in a random pattern, then leave to set until cold and firm.
7 To make the filling, pour the cream into a bowl and whisk into soft peaks. Stir in the whisky cream.
8 Dust a large sheet of baking paper with icing sugar, then turn the cooled sponge out on to it and peel off the lining paper (see tips). Spread the sponge with the cream, leaving a clear border of around 2cm (¾ in) on all sides, as the cream will spread out as the sponge is rolled up. Roll up as tightly as possible, like a Swiss roll, starting from one of the long edges and using the paper to help. Leave the rolled-up sponge wrapped in the paper for a while to help it to hold together. Don’t worry if it cracks, though – it adds to the appeal!
9 To finish assembling the roulade, sit the rolled sponge on a long plate with the join underneath, break the sheet of chocolate into large pieces and stick these into the top of the roulade. Dust with cocoa powder and more icing sugar, if you like.
Apple tarte tatin
The classic ‘upside down’ French tart, usually served warm as a pudding. Do not butter the tin before pouring in the caramel otherwise the caramel will be cloudy and not clear.
SERVES 6
COOK TIME 40-50 minutes, plus setting and cooling
175g (6oz) granulated sugar butter, for greasing 200g (7oz) peeled and cored Bramley apples, diced into 2cm (¾ in) chunks 2 tbsp caster sugar 4 large eating apples plain flour, for dusting 1 x 375g block of all-butter puff pastry (see tips)
1 You will need a 23cm (9in) fixed-base cake tin with deep sides.
2 First make the caramel. Measure the granulated sugar and 6 tablespoons of water into a stainless-steel saucepan. Stir gently over a low heat until the sugar has fully dissolved, then remove the spoon and increase the heat. Boil until a golden straw colour (see tips) and immediately pour into the cake tin, letting it spread evenly over the base, then set aside (see tips). Once the caramel has set (after about 30 minutes), butter the tin sides above the caramel line.
3 Meanwhile, place the Bramley apples, caster sugar and 2 tablespoons of water in another saucepan. Stir over a medium heat, then cover with a lid and simmer for about 5-10 minutes until the apples are soft. Remove from the heat, then use a fork to mash the apples to a purée and leave to cool.
4 Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7.
5 Peel and core the eating apples, then thinly slice so they are about 5mm (¼ in) thick. Arrange a layer over the caramel in the tin in a circular pattern. Start from the outside of the tin and work inwards, using larger pieces for the outer edge of the circle, and smaller slices for the inner ring. Scatter the remaining apples on top and press down.
6 Add the cooled apple purée in spoonfuls over the sliced apples and carefully spread out in an even layer.
7 On a work surface lightly dusted in flour, roll out the pastry into a circle 2cm-3cm (¾ in -1¼ in) bigger than the tin. Cover the apples with the pastry and tuck in the edges to make a downward lip. Make a small cross in the top of the pastry with a sharp knife, to let the steam out.
8 Bake in the oven for 35-40 minutes, with a baking tray on the shelf underneath to catch any sugary drips, until the pastry is crisp and golden and the apples are soft.
9 Carefully turn the tarte tatin out on to a plate and spoon the syrup over the apples. Serve with cream or crème fraîche.
Clementine cake
This cake has an impressively well-risen deep sponge, flecked with soft orange peel, and using the whole clementine gives a wonderful moistness. Everyone loves this!
SERVES 6-8
COOK TIME 1-1¼ hours, plus cooling
275g (10oz) cold baking spread, plus extra for greasing 1 large or 2 small clementines (about 125g/4½ oz), peeled (see tips) 275g (10oz) caster sugar 275g (10oz) self-raising flour 4 large eggs
FOR THE ICING
250g (9oz) full-fat mascarpone cheese 75g (3oz) butter, softened 175g (6oz) icing sugar, sifted
1 You will need two 20cm (8in) round, loose-bottomed sandwich tins. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4, then grease the tins with baking spread and line each base with a disc of baking paper.
2 Place the clementine(s) in a pan of water and cover with a lid. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30-40 minutes until soft. Leave to cool, then slice into quarters and remove any pips or bits of pith. Roughly chop and transfer to a bowl.
3 Measure the baking spread, sugar and flour into a bowl and add the eggs. Beat together with an electric hand whisk until light and fluffy, then stir in all but 1 tablespoon of clementine pulp. Divide the mixture into the tins and level the tops.
4 Bake in the oven for about 30-35 minutes until well risen and springy to the touch. Leave to cool in the tins until cold enough to handle, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool down completely. Peel off the lining paper from each sponge (see tips).
5 Meanwhile, make the icing. Whisk the mascarpone, butter and icing sugar together until smooth and fluffy, then stir in the reserved clementine pulp.
6 Place one sponge on a serving plate and spread over half the icing, then sandwich together with the second sponge and spread the remaining icing on top.