CLASS IS BACK
Irish designer Jacqueline Quinn has taken inspiration from her fashion idol Jackie Kennedy and wowed New York with a collection that is elegant, luxurious and timeless
Where do I begin? The Shirley Bassey classic from Love Story belts out across the penthouse suit of the New York Bryant Park Hotel in midtown Manhattan. The Empire State Building is framed through the arched window – an impressive backdrop for the showing of Irish designer Jacqueline Quinn’s new collection. Jackie by Jackie is themed and inspired by the iconic American first lady Jackie Kennedy. Her namesake has created a night that has cemented an Irish presence at New York Fashion Week.
The Irish connection is strong at the hotel with general manager Siobhan Delaney, a Kerry native, carefully placing other Irish members of staff to welcome guests to the show. George Heslin, head of the Irish Centre in Long Island, introduces Jacqueline and her collection with great aplomb. He references the impressive resume of previous brands that she has worked for, from Guess to DKNY and Betsey Johnson. With tongue in cheek he declares Irish fashion has moved on from the Aran sweater and now creates €1.74 billion in revenue globally.
He is followed by Gareth Hargadon representing the Irish Government at the consulate in New York, who describes Quinn as a strong and unique ambassador of Irish fashion in New York.
The models traverse the floor between the crowd and the exhibition of original Oleg Cassini fashion illustrations that he created for Jackie Kennedy for her preinauguration gown and other garments while she was in the White House. Jacqueline bought the sketches when the Cassini estate went up for auction in 2019 and has used them to inspire her collection. This is the first time the sketches have been exhibited to the public.
Gloria Starr Kins enters the loft apartment accompanied by Jude Elie, who is running for the presidency of Haiti. Wearing bright orange, the socialite is on the American board of directors for Irish charity the Hope Foundation, working closely with street children in India. Jacqueline has donated couture dresses to the charity in the past at its fundraising events in Ireland.
Lisa Silhanek shows up in Jacqueline’s Tribute to Jackie hot pink jacquard dress, accessorised with a pair of Jacqueline’s designer sunglasses adapted to prescription lenses and Chanel pearls around her waist. As an advisor to designers,
Lisa pre-approves collections for showing during NYFW. She bounces around the room speaking enthusiastically about the collection.
Kathleen Kennedy reached out to Jacqueline 20 years ago when she was running for governor of Maryland. Her brother Robert Kennedy is currently seeking the democratic nomination and his New
York fundraising manager along with supporters are also present at the event.
Another attendee is author and businesswoman Tina Santi Flaherty, who still lives in the penthouse above where Jackie lived in Manhattan overlooking Central Park. The two were neighbours and friends and Tina has written four books about her neighbour. The author and philanthropist has donated millions to the animal medical centre in Manhattan among other charities.
Also present on the night is Irish model and actress Olivia Tracey, who flew in for the event from LA where she has lived since the 1990s.
Irish businesswoman Michelle Furey, daughter of musician Eddie Furey and owner of Jejuve clinic, is also at the show and orders several pieces from the collection.
Flashes of bright greens and oranges, embroidered birds and handsown beadwork launch the first part of the show. The models sparkle in 1950s silhouettes with a modern twist, crowned with linen sunhats and draped in traditional pearls and wearing Jacqueline’s signature
Jackie sunglasses.
Showing salon style is very much on trend, reflecting some of the luxuriant uniqueness of fashion born at a time when it was important to buy good quality clothes made to last – a fashion in keeping with the message of sustainability that is on the rise.
‘Runway is becoming repetitious and you don’t really see the clothes
up close,’ says Jacqueline of why she went with a salon-style show. ‘Sometimes you miss the detail. I chose the song History Repeating to accompany the middle segment of my show because I do believe fashion repeats itself again and again. Now is the time for a more sustainable approach in the way our parents and grandparents did in the 1950s and 1960s by buying less clothes but of a higher quality. What I’m offering is a collection that is tailor-made to the person and this is the time to re-launch.’
The opening is vibrant with pops of colour in jacquard cotton-blend fabrics, hand-beaded with handembroidered silk and a bird of paradise theme with one of Jacqueline’s favourite colours, warm peach, running through the first part of the collection.
‘I saw the movie Mrs Harris goes to Paris,’ Quinn tells me, ‘I watched it and said I’m going to do that. I feel every woman deserves a beautiful dress that is designed for them. I love the art of dressmaking. I love beautiful dresses that are made well to fit people to perfection.’
‘I DO BELIEVE FASHION REPEATS ITSELF AGAIN AND AGAIN’
The second segment moves into black and white dresses with striped hats, pearl accessories and soft feminine accents with lace and tulle trim. Jacqueline has collaborated with the Native Denims Irish brand to create elevated luxury capri pants similar in shape and style to those worn by Jackie Kennedy.
It is a remarkable fashion statement that blends innovative
Irish manufacturing and New
York design.
Based in the chocolate factory on Dublin’s Kings Inn street, the brand
THE RESULT IS A FRESH LOOK IN KEEPING WITH TRENDS
supplies bespoke jeans made to measure for its clients in a similar fashion to the ethos behind Jacqueline’s collection. Making denim chic and stylish enough to mix with a jacquard beaded frock coat is irresistible for this author, who splashes out for the occasion, wearing both.
The mood moves from blackand-white into warm ecru handbeaded cream dresses with hints of gold jacquard, continuing with pearl accessories and sunglasses.
In the final part of the collection, Jacqueline uses fabrics inspired by
Georgian stucco ceilings from the 1800s in Ireland. Silhouettes are all signature Jackie in design, with dressmaker-style side darts and a traditional style-fitted bodice.
A Waterford Crystal chandelier was dissected and carefully upcycled to create beautiful embellishment on the light grey jacquard bejewelled ballgown. It reflects the history of the Kennedy tenancy of the White House, when the first lady decorated her new home with crystal chandeliers from Waterford.
Jacqueline has taken Jackie Kennedy’s style and transformed it into a fresh look that is in keeping with current trends. She is an expert on the influence Jackie Kennedy has left on the world of fashion and has used her knowledge and unique talent to create an inspiring and beautiful collection for a new generation.
The collection is available directly from JacquelineQuinn.com. Upon request Jacqueline will send a catalogue of the collection and everything is made to order. Her sunglasses are also available on her website . The Jackie O capri pants can be ordered online at nativedenims.com. Michelle was a guest of Aer Lingus for transport to New York Fashion Week