Ani resort, Sri Lanka
Outline
A 15-suite private resort on the southern shores of Sri Lanka, Ani has a staff of 30 to curate any dining whim, spa treatment, kids’ activity or tailored excursion. Accommodating up to 30 guests, it’s part of a network of exclusive Ani resorts that includes Anguilla and Dominican Republic in the Caribbean and Koh Yao Noi island in Thailand.
Coastline
From almost every vantage point on this five-acre clifftop – through the windows of your vast villa, on your lounger by the infinity pool (there are two) or the many palm-fringed decks and dining areas – the Indian Ocean spills out below you. Ghostly container ships sometimes break the horizon, a passing whale if you are lucky, but beyond that there is nothing, no landmass for 11,000km until the Southern Ocean meets Antarctica: a meditation-inducing horizon, but beware of the sea-swirling currents.
Sight line
Expect David Attenboroughworthy local wildlife. Families of grey langur monkeys can be spotted munching on papayas while the babies of their troop swing around in the flame trees. This is also an ornithologist’s dream – kingfishers, parrots, strutting peacocks. One morning I find a cuckoo – possibly the resident red-faced malkoha – pecking away at his reflection in the stainless steel outdoor shower head, doubtlessly admiring his impressive green bill.
Waistline
Executive chef Cyril Human has a fabulous smile and conjures endless interesting comestibles from his kitchen. He turns local tuna, abundant in the seas around Sri Lanka, into delicious sashimi and sushi, offers plates of fat steaks from Australia, gives us a cooking lesson in how to make turmeric chicken curry in 15 minutes, barbecues plump
prawns under the stars and proffers piles of perfectly cooked local rice.
Party line
The resort’s cavernous cellar stores a varied and extensive wine list, while the cocktails are lethal. Order several chilled passionfruit martinis with caution: you may find yourself dancing around the pool at midnight. For a change of scene try Pehebiya Beach in nearby Hiriketiya, home to one of Asia’s 50 best bars, Smoke & Bitters, which nestles in a coconut grove. As the sun sets, we pile into the local gin and chai-infused rum and eye the interesting smokehouse menu.
Bikini line
Much of the inaction centres around the two pools – perfect for the reluctant tourist. For the mildly idle there’s a pool bar with an inbuilt chessboard, plus two water slides for younger guests. Waiters appear just when you are thinking of that iced coffee or gin and tonic. A man in a uniform will clean your sunglasses, and my discarded sandals are straightened beside my sunbed. All requests are considered. One Saudi princess asked for two kittens to help her get to sleep. The cats, now fully grown, remain part of the Ani menagerie.
Lifeline Aside from the spa offerings and yoga, every day brings a menu of entertaining mini events: cinnamon peeling, a pre-dinner traditional Sri Lankan dance performance complete with fire eaters, a poolside movie by moonlight and local excursions. The best was palm reading in the games room by a local sage. My lifeline said I’d live until I was 90.
Airline
There are many direct flights to Colombo, with Sri Lankan Airlines flying from London from €980 in ten and a half hours. Then it’s a three-hour cab ride to the resort. Don’t fancy that before or after a long flight? Stay a night at Wallawwa, arguably the world’s most glamorous airport hotel, just 15 minutes away from the capital. It’s a colonial-style, 18-room hotel, encircled by 200-year-old tropical gardens with a jungle pool, flower-laden trees and heavenly afternoon tea and cake.
Hotline
It’s a balmy 27-30 degrees in the south of Sri Lanka all year round, although rainier during the southwest Yala monsoon from May to September.
Bottom line With a seven-day stay for six rooms costing from around €15,000, this is a slice of paradise for once-in-a-lifetime celebrations or those with cash to splash seeking a super-luxe tropical holiday in total privacy (aniprivateresorts.com).
NEXT WEEK TOPLINE WELLNESS: THE NEW STEP AEROBICS
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