LAMB STEW WITH PEARL BARLEY & WILD GARLIC

Here we have a brothy and unctuous stew of meltingly tender lamb, packed with veg and herbs and underpinned by the soothing texture of pearl barley. While the wild garlic – in season until next month – is fantastic, I appreciate it can be hard to find; have no fear, as this is equally delicious with cavolo nero or even just a handful of parsley.

SERVES 6

H 750g lamb neck fillet

(or thick-cut lamb shoulder)

H 3 tbsp olive oil

H 5 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped

H 3 brown onions, finely diced

H 5 salted anchovies

H large glass of red wine

H 3 bay leaves

H few sprigs of fresh thyme

H 4 carrots, cut into chunks

H 4 celery sticks, thinly sliced

H 1.2 litres chicken stock

H 200g pearl barley

H 300g wild garlic (or cavolo nero), roughly chopped

H apple cider or sherry vinegar, to finish

1 First prepare the lamb neck. Halve lengthways, then slice across for thick chunks. Season the pieces generously with salt, then leave to one side for 15 minutes so the salt penetrates while you prep the veg.

2 When ready, pour the olive oil into a deep, heavy-based pan and put over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the lamb – the aim here is to properly caramelise the meat, which adds so much flavour to the stew. When brown, remove and set to one side.

3 Turn down the heat and add the garlic, onions and anchovies with a generous pinch of salt and cook for 10 minutes, until sweet and sticky. Pour in the wine and reduce by half, then add the bay leaves, thyme, carrots and celery. Cook the veg for another 10 minutes, then put the lamb back in, pour over the stock, put the lid on and gently simmer at the faintest of bubbles for 30 minutes.

4 At this point have a taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary – a whack of pepper will do it good. Add the pearl barley, give it a stir, then put the lid back on and gently simmer for another 30-45 minutes, until the pearl barley is cooked. At this point, the lamb should be meltingly tender. Add the wild garlic (or cavolo nero), give it a good stir and let it wilt briefly.

5 Pour in the tiniest splash of vinegar, being careful not to overdo it, the aim here just being to brighten up the stew, not make it taste vinegary.

Stir and taste to check your seasoning for a final time.

Serve piping hot in deep bowls, with a drizzle of good olive oil.