Come one, come all!
Agadir is the perfect spot for winter sun and you’ll find it a whole new world
ARRIVING off the plane in Agadir, blinding flashbulbs was not the first sight one expected but this seems to be quite a I was a passenger on the inaugural Air Arabia flight from Dublin, and the TV cameras and paparazzi captured blearyeyed fliers waking up from four-hour naps. They laid out the red carpet on the runway and a group of musicians belted out tunes for travellers queuing at passport control, and even the baggage carousel had a welcome drink of their favourite sweet mint tea and a tray of Moroccan sweets. And one of the best things, it’s the exact same time as at home.
Taking advantage of the only chance of some winter sun, it is a typical day in the city at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, which promises 300 days of sunshine a year. Driving from the airport through dusty scrub, passing partially built hotels, motorcyclists without helmets, and a random mule bearing a heavy load of bricks, the city is already one of contrasts.
A traditional Muslim country, it is not unusual to see someone at the side of the road with a prayer mat at certain times of the day. But in tourist areas the call to prayer is not heard due to planning laws. However, women should take extra precautions and avoid going anywhere alone outside of resorts at night time and to dress in line with local customs.
Our first induction to the North African city’s past is a trip to the hilltop kasbah – a rare survivor of the 1960 earthquake that killed 15,000 people.
Built in 1541 restored in the 1740s, the area once housed 300 people but now is home jewellery hawkers and juice sellers. Nearby, the sight of several bejew-
-elled camels prompts tourists to take snaps but soon the owner appears with his hand out, gesturing for dirhams. The going rate for a shot is 20 dirhams (€2).
Leaving this sideshow aside, a trip to the souk, or Sunday Market, beckons where bargain hunters are instantly hit by the aroma of spices, and can see the produce, dead and alive, on offer, as well as medical wonder cures for sale alongside their famous leathers and carpets.
As an experienced haggler, this is where I felt I could come into my own, and was ready to be hassled.
However, most traders leave you alone when you explain you’re just looking.
A camel leather handbag priced originally at 1,000 dirhams but haggled down to 600 was purchased several minutes after the game of uninterested customer and nonchalant owner began.
And, no trip to Agadir is complete without checking out their famous Argan oil made by the local people.
Long used as a medicine and a staple in the cuisine of the indigenous people, the Berbers make up more than half of Morocco’s population.
They were once thought of as second-class citizens much like the Aboriginals in Australia. However, now they are held in equal regard with other cultures, and Berber is recognised as one of Morocco’s official languages.
Their ancient argan oil is also stirring up a global cosmetic craze. The ‘liquid gold’ produced through hard labour of Berber women for around 15 hours has the celebrity backing of Kim Kardashian, pictured below, Selena Gomez, Taylor Swift, Gisele Bundshen and Catherine Zeta Jones. I hope they appreciate it. The oil is made from seeds of the argan tree, which are harvested, crushed, shelled and pressed.
With traditional methods, more than 100 pounds of argan nuts are required to produce one pint of argan oil. Brought to the Diar Argan shop that sells the genuine article by tourism leader Asmaa Oubou, we were guided through the products that promise everything from eternal youth to eczema cures.
Inside helpful staff guided us through the products priced from €10 upwards, and they also offered massages and a taxi service for clients.
On the plane over, I sat beside a lovely retired couple from west Cork, who are frequent visitors to Agadir. They return year after year for the guaranteed sun, the food, the culture, and the country’s infamous argan oil hammam ritual.
With their advice ringing in my ears, I booked in for the traditional beauty treatment. Taking 90 minutes aside, I decided to see what all the fuss was about in my home for the week, the Royal Atlas Hotel, on my last day in Morocco.
Starting in the sauna, my therapist – who spoke no English – gestured to me to lay down onto a marble slab. She then appeared in the mist with a metal pail of hot water. The next step was unexpected; a ferocious scrubbing that prompted forgotten scabs to bleed!
Again, more gesticulations and this time hot organ oil was spilled all over and was swiftly followed by more pails of hot water.
THE final step was a mud mask of locally derived black soap. Although this is definitely not the most relaxing beauty treatment that I’ve ever experienced – mostly due to several surprise factors and language barriers – my skin felt amazingly clean and soft afterwards, and it was an absolute steal to get a whole body treatment for €25.
Aside from the shopping activities, Agadir is now trying to tap into the activity break market by specialising in golfing, surfing and spa holidays. They’ll lure you in with five-star hotels in lush complexes of grass, palms and swimming pools.
They are actively looking for Irish people to come and sample their mostly all-year round sun – bar 10 days in November when it rains.
Paradis Plage, a surf, yoga and spa resort, has a chilledout vibe and competitive prices for those who want to learn how to surf and get away from it all.
For golfers, the Golf du Soleil offers relaxation, competition or just a training session no matter your level.
An there’s the option also of the Kasbah Atlas, which is best places to do a digfe detox. husband-and-wife team nd Helene Aboutayeb comfortable rooms, yoga, sm. an even BYOB to this winning bolthole if you ant to rock the Kasbah, ey’ll serve it to you at mes at no extra cost. e sort of place you’d go if nted to switch off from there’s a really nice vibe, e Aboutayeb family hire Berber women in the and display and teach native traditions to s. During our welcoming we were treated to a feast ney and argan butter d in bread made in a skiltside. It was a wonderful, dly pocket of calm discovon the trip. re are two very different to Agadir. One is the tranal place of souks, hamms, food and sweet mint The other is a modern pping mecca with hip surf ts and golf retreats – and e just four hours away.