The pearl of the desert
Be prepared to come across the unexpected in Dubai
DUBAI is the city of superlatives. Pick whichever one you like – the largest, tallest, smartest, swankiest, showiest, blingy-est, shoppyest, well maybe not that, but any of the others and you’ll have hit the nail full square on the head. In global terms it’s a baby. The ‘old town’ is scarcely 50 years old.
Before that it was a tiny coastal fishing village whose menfolk spend months at a time at sea, pearl fishing. They lived in tents or collections of mud houses with wind towers, an innovative way of circulating air inside in the stifling summers.
Now this city, capital of one of the seven states which make up the United Arab Emirates, is a beacon in the world, a beacon to commercialism, entertainment, pleasure and business.
Lucky enough to have a modern leader, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid
They offer a choice of 35 desserts... I asked the chef: ‘ Who ate the 36th?’
Al Maktoum, whose father was a visionary before him, it’s developing as a monument to modernism.
He doesn’t stand in the way of progress, but rather embraces it in all its forms. Progress is not held up for years while decisions are made, appealed or reversed. If they need a new road, a metro or a stadium, it gets built, along with the necessary infrastructure. With tourism and not oil as is commonly thought, being its major source of income, the visitor is king and nothing is too good for them.
Service reaches new heights and although I seldom mention hotels I stay in I have to on this occasion. My address was Address Boulevard, right in the centre of town. From the deck of the infinity pool, (there were two others), I could crane my neck to take in the awesome sight of the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, 828 metres high. (The Eiffel Tower is 300 and the Empire State Building 381). For me Address defines five-star service and luxury, friendly and unobtrusive, and I didn’t want to leave.
Every Friday – their Sabbath – they put on a Riviera Chic Brunch which has to be the calorie-est brunch ever. It’s French themed, with live French music and traditional French dishes. Leaving the cheese table aside, it offers a choice of 35 desserts. I asked the chef who ate the thirty-sixth. When I was leaving the restaurant he came after me with a box of other confections – in case I had missed any. Now that’s what I call service.
By complete contrast the following day we undertook another eating marathon. We did a Frying Pan Adventure. No, that didn’t involve going around with frying pans under our arms, but over four hours we did meet chefs and go into kitchens in the old town, sampling an array of local and imported favourites, Lebanese spices, falafels, a very sweet delicacy called knafeh, which is eaten at breakfast, and ice cream made from the root of the soap plant.
It was a great way to meet locals and get a glimpse into the authentic life of the citizens, of whom less than 20 per cent are Emiratis. In this melting pot we ate lunch at a local restaurant sitting crossed-legged and bare-footed while we were given a lesson in how to eat a meat and rice dish without cutlery, using the right hand only. We learned the etiquette around accepting coffee, and how this tastes even better with some dates, especially the chocolate-covered ones.
DISPLAYS of wealth are hard to avoid. On the seven and eight-lane highways Rolls-Royces, Lamborghinis and Maseratis purr by as they overtake, but I was to learn there’s an even more revealing status symbol – the pedigree of your falcon! These feathered creatures are treated like royalty. A well-bred one can cost you a mere €70,000, and there are tales of some fetching six-figure sums. Needless to say they have their own hospital in Dubai too. Well they would, wouldn’t they?
We got a fashion lesson at the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Learning and a fascinating history at the newly opened Etihad Museum. It’s located on the site where the first UAE flag was raised in December 1971, coincidently the same year as oil was discovered here. That flag pole is dwarfed by the tallest one you’ll ever see. This futuristic building features seven pillars, symbolising the seven pens used to sign the Union Agreement. The country is now a federation of seven emirates, Abu Dhabi, the capital, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Sharjah, Umm al-Quwain and Ras al-Khaimah.
The Deira Gold Souk was a dazzling experience. Here a labyrinth of streets comprises nothing but shops filled with gold. Everything from tiaras to solid 22 carat gold golden football boots are designed to tempt. In one window the world’s largest ring, the Star of Taiba, is a permanent attraction. It’s estimated to have cost more than two and a half million euro.
From there we walked to the quayside to cross the Creek in an abra, the traditional ferry boats used by the locals. While waiting we cooled down with some very tasty camel milk ice cream. Across the water a walkabout through AL Fahidi, the old part of Dubai and more souks, saw me quickly become quite skilful at dodging the proffered pashminas and spices. Our destination was Al Fahidi Fort Museum for a cultural journey though time.
The twinkling lights of this city’s ever-growing skyline and the eclectic architecture added to the pleasure of dinner on our Dhow River cruise.
If asked to pick what would induce me back it would be the Dubai Fountains. They are worth a visit alone. Here I’m searching for the
right superlative, because they deserve one! They are truly spectacular and can spray 83,000 litres of water in the air at any moment. And , as if that wasn’t showy enough, more than 6,600 lights and 25 colour projectors are synchronised into action in countless combinations and patterns as the waters dance and frolic in glorious choreographed displays every half hour in the evenings. Although our hotel has a covered walkway right into the Dubai Mall, whose total area is the equivalent of 200 football pitches, the thoughts of 1,200 retail outlets was enough to send me into hiding. Suddenly I understood why the Irish Village has become such a refuge for the expats here. There they can retreat for a while into their reality with Irish pubs, singing and music sessions. This is located at the Aviator Club and Dubai Lawn Tennis Centre.
Refreshed and ready for another exclusively Dubai attraction we headed to La Perle, its newest attraction. A resident show, it’s in a specially designed aquatic theatre. I was a bit ambivalent about this beforehand, but was totally captivated.
Part Cirque du Soleil, part Vegas, part absolutely unbelievable, the action takes place around a twelvemetre deep circular pool, which at times enlarges, becoming a 2.7 million litre pool, that can be transformed back into a dry deck in seconds. 65 aerobic and aquatic actors make up the cast and there are scuba divers underwater at all time to ensure their safety. The special effects are hallucinogenic, especially when the gigantic waterfalls thunder into the area and it starts raining.
As I said - Dubai - pick any superlative…