Washington on budget
The US capital is an ideal city holiday for the family... most of it is free
THE epicentre of American political life – and strife – Washington DC may not be the first destination that comes to mind when booking a family trip. However, this erudite city and its waterfront surrounds offer the perfect location to unwind, have fun and explore past and present.
Getting there is straightforward, with most major airlines flying to Dulles Airport. However, the entry of Icelandic carrier WOW Air into the market has opened it up to sightseers on a budget… AKA those bringing the kids!
I travelled with Lois, five, Holly, four, and husband Gavin, landing in Baltimore which is 33miles or an hour’s train ride from Washington DC.
Bringing young children on planes guarantees multiple trips to the loo and chatting to lots of fellow parents in the queue….
These chats meant I left the airport with a list of tried and tested family friendly places to visit. Suddenly, the loose plans we’d made for the weeks ahead formed into hazy, sun-drenched visions of jazz in the garden, butterfly walks and pirate ships.
The next most valuable source of information in Washington is the Friday edition of the Washington Post. Its listings break this sprawling city into bite-sized chunks, opening your eyes to what’s on away from the well-worn tourist trails.
In-the-know writers regularly rank everything from bottomless brunches and rib joints to sundae shops. Plus, there’s a certain pleasure that comes from reading the iconic US paper that broke the Watergate story and brought down Nixon and is the subject of the critically-acclaimed film, The Post, out just now.
GALLERIES
Art galleries, the 17 museums of the Smithsonian and impressive political landmarks dominate the city – with The Museum of Modern Art, Hirshhorn, Capitol Hill, Lincoln Monument, White House all within walking distance of each other. The Pentagon lies 12 miles to the Southeast of the city.
Most landmarks are free to visit but expect queues no matter the time of year you come as this city is a hotspot for American tourists too.
We found a tour of the Senate was a great way to start the trip and get our bearings, both politically and geographically. The building is a hive of activity, packed with tourists and their guides full of fascinating historical tidbits.
If you want to take a tour of the Senate or White House begin the process as far in advance as you can… and even then be prepared to be turned down, as we were.
Entering every public building in DC will involve at least a bag search, if not putting your bag in a locker. It’s also worth noting staff in bars and clubs regularly asked me (at the very obvious age 41!) for ID, so remember to bring yours no matter your vintage.
Guided segway tours are the perfect way to get around in the heat. Another tip is to visit in the evening, when the humidity won’t feel so draining and the sights no less impressive. Punctuate your sightseeing with stops at the many cafés, bars and food trucks and the day will fly by.
One eatery to put on your list is the famous Ben’s Chili Bowl, where the landmark mural of Bill Cosby was recently replaced by one featuring Prince and the Obamas, among others. It’s a great photo opportunity.
Locals cope with the summer heat by hopping in and out of cabs even for a ride of a few blocks… after acquiring a few blisters we began following their example!
There are a mix of State-funded and ‘private’ museums and art galleries in the city, and most are of an extremely high standard. They’re so popular that being up with the larks is the only way to avoid huge queues. We found it impossible to do more than two in one day, and even then felt we left some museums unfinished.
MUSEUMS
The Newseum is a brilliant insight into journalism and how some of the biggest stories were told. It’s so vast that the admission price covers two successive days – common for the bigger museums in the city. The Holocaust museum is a visceral, affecting and very modern glimpse into this chapter in world history. At the entrance visitors are even packed into lifts designed to feel like the ‘ovens’ of a concentration camp.
A relatively new addition to the scene is the Museum of African American History. There’s a waiting list for entry of a few months, so book now! If you’re planning on travelling before that you’ll have to rely on queueing for a 4pm walk-up ticket, but this only allows an hour inside and barely scrapes the surface of this vibrant museum.
More traditional is the Natural History Museum, here you’ll find volunteer demonstrators with pop-up stands holding creepy crawlies that kids can hold. It’s also home to dinosaur skeletons, (more) ancient mummys, huge marine life exhibits and the Hope diamond. For all their scale and drama, the most thrilling encounter is also the least flashy. The Butterfly Walk Through allows visitors inside an area where the creatures hatch and live out their short, but very pretty, lives. It’s probably the quietest room of the whole museum and the most enthralling, especially if you’re lucky enough to have one land on you.
The Air And Space and Spy museums are also big hits with children.
Thanks to its wide, clean streets DC rarely feels claustrophobic in the way that NYC does.
In saying that, it lacks a little of its chutzpah too. DC is mannerly, smart and politics obsessed, with most overheard conversations focusing on the goings-on on the Hill. With President Trump in power it’s a fascinating time to go... There are still more hawkers around selling Obama memorabilia than Trump, while Obama T-shirts outnumber Trump’s on citizens too.
There also seems to be a national apology happening - many locals we chatted to felt the need to say sorry in some round-about way for the imposition of ‘that man’ on the rest of the world.
This perhaps reflects DC’s status as a state that has taxation without representation. But don’t be lulled into a false sense of universality, it’s worth remembering that DC is surrounded by States that enthusiastically embraced Trump.
If the political talk does get too much, the Sculpture Garden Pavilion Café on Friday evenings offers respite.
Here you can sip wine as the kids dip weary feet in the small pool, all to the soundtrack of live jazz. With sculptures by such luminaries as Louise Bourgeois to ponder, this is a highly recommended treat for the senses.
OUTSIDE THE CITY
Outside the city lies National Harbour, where you can while away the day playing on the man-made beach and watching open-air movies. It’s literally a breath of fresh air. The range of places to eat and drink here is fantastic.
Take a trip on the Big Wheel and you’ll spot the brand spanking new MGM National Harbour Casino, glittering in the sunshine. This place is spectacular, bringing an air of Vegas to Washington.
You can’t take the kids to the gambling floor, but the outside bar area is a masterclass in excess with breathtaking views, plus there’s an excellent fish restaurant in situ by DC’s chef du jour Jose Andres.
Another great spot for Sunday brunch - or a kayak - is Georgetown, on the banks of the Potomac. For children book in advance to take them aboard the raucous Boomerang Pirate Ship adventure, where they’ll get to squirt the bad guys with water canons as you enjoy a drink… Mummy discovered the Frose – a frozen raspberry and Rose wine cocktail at one of Georgetown’s many restaurants. I wasn’t lying when I said this city was cultured!
A trip up the Potomac River is also great way to see the sights from a different angle. You’ll even pass by that infamous Watergate Hotel. A chain of events that brought down a US President began here, but now, in an inevitable sign of the times, it’s an apartment block.
DC is a city that requires action and mental energy from its visitors, but it’s one of the most rewarding I’ve ever visited. Thanks to that man in the White House what goes on there has never seemed more relevant to us.
Yet, immersing yourself in the history and culture on offer provides a quietly reassuring counterpoint to the White House bluster. That - and the Frose makes this a wonderful time to visit the seat of American power.