Six ways to smash it in the kitchen this Easter

The sun is shining... the daffodils are in bloom...

EASTER is much better than Christmas. There, I’ve said the unthinkable. But of course it’s true. Easter doesn’t involve weeks of fevered anticipation, the retail panic attacks, the office party with all its pitfalls, the gorging on food and drink. Easter could not be more different. It’s just easier and, arguably more fun.

It’s different even in its colour: the bright yellow of the young sun, of daffodils, of primroses and celandines and the yolks of eggs. Yes, while Christmas is about keeping our spirits up when all about us the natural world is dark and dormant, Easter is about waking up, seeing the first signs of spring, and having some sense of rebirth.

No wonder Christianity absorbed the old feasting that was associated with the Spring Equinox and the start of the agricultural year. Easter makes sense. And it’s actually more enjoyable than Christmas. It’s relaxed. Nobody speaks of the ‘run-up to Easter’. There’s nothing to be wrapped. And it’s not followed by the despondency that precedes New Year’s Eve.

So, how do we ensure that we have a lovely Easter? Here are six things that, for me, make Easter perfect.

CELEBRATE WITH CHOCOLATE

Normally, it’s not the chocolate itself that tends to induce a sense of guilt; it’s the sugar that comes with it. Easter, however, grants us a seasonal dispensation to enjoy this remarkable substance without considering the consequences. We should consider the consumption of chocolate – ideally the dark, high-cocoa solids stuff but let’s not be too dogmatic about this – a kind of Easter duty.

After all, chocolate has been part of Easter for at least a couple of centuries.

Here in Ireland the first chocolate Easter eggs appeared, thanks to Cadbury’s of Bournville, in the late 1870s. So, it’s not just you. Your parents, grandparents, greatgrandparents all enjoyed chocolate at Easter. You’re just carrying on a grand tradition.

And here’s a tip. Easter is not just a time for chocolate, it’s a time for really good chocolate; and it doesn’t have to be egg-shaped. Trade up and spoil yourself.

EAT REAL EGGS TOO

Eggs have been a potent Easter symbol since earliest times. Not only are they an obvious symbol of fertility, they also embody something of the cycle of life and the concept of rebirth.

In that sense, eggs are a lot more significant than the Easter bunny who does the fertility bit very efficiently but falls down on the rest. Rabbits are, frankly, hard to catch and not the easiest to cook.

Start the Easter celebration with eggs, the best you can find.

Farmer’s markets are the best places to look for the real thing but health regulations mean that genuinely free range eggs from deliriously happy hens on mixed farms are not always easy to come by.

Get the best you can and have the breakfast of champions: poached eggs on lavishly buttered thick toast. Plunge the knife in and let that bright yellow yolk spill out on to your plate. With a bit of luck it will presage the sun that comes later in the year. At least in theory. You might also try making the ultimate omelette, the one named after the writer, Arnold Bennett. It’s a bit of trouble, involving smoked haddock, béchamel and hollandaise sauces, and Parmesan, but it’s a fabulous dish. There are dozens of recipes online.

GET PLANTING…

In terms of growing things, especially things that you can eat, this Eastertide is, well, literally a tide, and you can catch it. Even if you’ve not sprouted seed potatoes, just buy some and plant them now six inches deep, a foot part. It’s actually that easy.

Clear a square metre of the garden and sow mixed lettuce seeds for your very own supply of cutand-come-again salad leaves.

If you have a conservatory or even a double-glazed porch, sow some tomatoes and cucumbers. There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of eating something you’ve grown yourself.

Unchecked, it can lead to unbearable smugness. Unbearable for everyone else, that is.

EASTER FEASTING

Let’s do Easter lunch. It could just as well be dinner in the evening but I like the idea of feasting in the middle of the day. And, anyway, it’s easier on the digestion. Traditionally this meal was a celebration of having got through the winter at a time when such a season could kill you. No wonder it featured food.

Making Easter great starts with two simple gambits: planning ahead and keeping it simple. Simple doesn’t mean that it can’t be luxurious. It just means minimal hassle.

For your starter, make it something that just needs to be put on a plate: smoked salmon, gravad lax, beef carpaccio, prosciutto and melon or figs, maybe just a big platter of charcuterie with cornichons, sourdough bread and lots of butter. Don’t forget that there’s no shame in buying your hummus, taramasalata, tapenade, pesto or whatever.

For your main, make it a one pot wonder. If you’re having lamb, get a shoulder and cook it ‘boulangère’ style: very slowly over sliced potatoes with onion, moistened with stock. It doesn’t really need a recipe, as such, but there are dozens online. Put it in the oven early and take it out when you’re ready to eat. Add a bit of greenery with a simple salad and a vinaigrette.

Considering how much chocolate there is in the house, there’s no need for dessert. Three or four chunks of really good cheese, some grapes, crackers and the decent wine that also goes with the lamb (I’d suggest Rioja), and you’re home and dry. Without any hassle.

IT’S ALL ABOUT REBIRTH. LOOK AROUND YOU.

Easter is even more special this year because of the weather we’ve experienced and the sense that winter’s icicle fingers have had such a tenacious grip on the year. However, all you have to do is go outside and look. The trees are in bud, the daffodils are in full bloom, the birds are courting and nesting, plants in the garden that died back to ground level last year are showing signs of firm, plump new growth. Take a small child with you, if there’s one to hand. Children of six or under are closer to these things than we are, not just physically so. See the awakening of spring through their eyes. And I’m aware that I’m tempting fate by assuming this Easter won’t be white! And even if it is, it’s not going to stop the rebirth.

DISCONNECT AND WALK!

You will feel even less guilt about eating so much chocolate if you try to walk it off. Scientifically, this is not physically feasible, of course, but it’s a nice aspiration. As winter gives way to spring, it’s the time to be outside to get away from phones and tablets and all kinds of screens in the fresh air. See the world properly, without a device between you and it. In a family context, bear in mind that digital detox is anathema to most teenagers and some will need to be bribed.

If so, it’s worth it. Easter is a time for families to come together. It’s short enough to avoid the emotional pressure cooker that Christmas can become; and present buying is so much simpler. Just stick to chocolate. The younger members of the family certainly will. Literally.