The cycle of life
Yes, Majorca is about beaches and nightlife, but to get a real look at the island then you’re best hopping on a bike and touring around
WITH a history of renting city bikes I had considered myself a proficient cyclist. Those bicycles, heavily equipped with a bell and a basket, got me from point A to point B without a helmet
and without the hassle.
That was until saddling up on a road bike for the first time, helmet on and hunched over, with cyclists passing me on either side. Though I learned to ride a bike early, at six, back at home in New Jersey, joining a cycling adventure holiday put me back to square one.
Mallorca is a cyclists’ dream, and 300,000 bike fans escape each year for trails up the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range or down on the flatter terrain with Mediterranean views.
My visit to the largest of the Balearic Islands landed in the middle of cycling’s high season, which runs from February to May, when the weather is temperate and the conditions are clear.
While tourists looking for a tropical beach holiday make the all-inclusive resorts their getaway during the summer months, temperatures of over 40
degrees make for a dangerous ride.
This had not been my first time to Spain, or the Balearic Islands, I’d been to Ibiza for a holiday and studied in Valencia for some time.
Majorca is a tourist hotspot, more noted for its beaches and nightlife. it’s not hard to see the appeal with its golden sands, and it drives the economy.
But scratch below the surface and Majorca, or Mallorca to give it its Spanish name, is a fascinating and culturally-rich island.
The Moors and Romans both left their mark while the Catalans also influenced the island, not least in the way they speak, which is similar to Catalan.
Palma truly is a fascinating city in which to spend an afternoon just milling around.
As a Spanish speaker myself, I would listen as the guides were conversing and knew they had switched into their native Mallorcan once I could no longer understand.
But it’s one thing talking the talk, I was here to walk the walk, or ride the ride and prove I could mix it with the cyclists.
The sun was shining when I first landed in Palma de Mallorca. From there a 50-minute car ride brought us to the northern beachtown of Alcudia. Bike shops on either side of the road are situated between cafes and small beach stores selling inflatable swim toys, as proper beach towns do.
The driver took caution as large groups of riders lined the roads, making a break to go around them when suitable. My favourite view on that drive wasn’t the palm trees or mountain ranges, but watching cyclists through the window of the van as they sat at tables, in bars, fully suited in their racing gear – a well-deserved rest break I presume. Just as I would be, I hoped.
I had travelled from Dublin, where I had been living for the past three months, with one stop in London. As an American, working in New York, I’m accustomed to all seasons but was hoping to escape the Irish weather for a few days.
As it turns out, I may have brought some of the less-than-ideal weather with me to the island of ‘300 days of sunshine a year’ for two of my four days visit.
We checked into the Viva Blue & Spa Resort where we would stay for just one night. Hotels on the island typically open from February to October and this resort is the epitome of an industry that has adapted to the sport. Underneath the hotel lies a cycling centre that stores up to 4,000 of guests’ personal bicycles which can cost anywhere from €10,000-€12,000. The equipment is protected by a high-security lock system so the €1.5million in gear it holds is safe.
The breakfast buffet had been altered from their traditional summer menu to cater to athletes. The seven different types of milk, fresh fruit and veg juices, and vegan section were a dead giveaway that this was a diet for someone in training.
Cycling was on our itinerary of course, but predictions of heavy rain and wind threatened our ride. As we got fitted for our bikes, throngs of cyclists lined up for their guided tours outside the bike shops behind our hotel.
Riding a road bike is quite a different experience than a typical bicycle. Its ultra lightweight and thin wheels took about ten minutes on the road to feel steady and confident.
Guided by Miguel, a former professional volleyball player turned semipro cyclist, we trailed behind him and alongside cars on roundabouts until we turned off onto a dirt road.
The flowers had started to bloom on either side as we pedalled down the middle of two fields.
Trying to take in the views was tricky at first. My bike would begin to wobble if I looked anywhere but forward. If I lifted one hand for even a moment my balance would be thrown off.
Sprinkles of rain began to come down but the droplets landed only as specks on my thin jacket as we rode off in the wind.
I can understand now why this is such a go-to place for cyclists.
Stunning views and fresh air mitigate the level of physical exertion. And there is tremendous satisfaction in reaching a picturesque destination after a strenuous route.
We came to a stop at a café where Miguel took over.
What we thought was a snack became a second breakfast as he had ordered traditional jamón ibérico and serrano along with cheeses and tuna with onion. If I hadn’t known I was in Spain, the first bite of toast with fresh tomato would have given it away.
Topped off with a café cortado, we hopped on our bikes to head back to the hotel. When I sat back on the saddle I realised instantly why bikers wear padded bottoms!
The hotel had provided us with proper gear that came with padded shorts that I regret not trying.
I had planned to give them a go the following day but unrelenting rain cancelled our ride.
Nevertheless, the next day we visited the mountain village of Valldemossa and Soller, known as the ‘valley of oranges’.
The streets were moderately quiet in these high-traffic tourist areas due to the weather.
Our guide Luisa appeared charmed by the rainy day, explaining the lack of sunshine gave the villages different character.
The fog was so thick in the mountains that I could see no more than five feet ahead as we went winding down the road.
Hats off to driver Tony for safely navigating.
Paella mixto was on the menu for lunch. The traditional Mallorcan paella comes with prawns and mussels as well as chicken and pork. The meal left me more than satisfied and not hungry for dinner, as did most of our lunches during the trip.
Though our biking plans were foiled that day, the culmination of my cycling experience came while off the bike at the indoor track racSix Day Series Final. After months of competition in London, Berlin and Copenhagen, professionals from around the world, perhaps some future Olympians, came to the Palma Arena velodrome. I spoke with champion Maximilian Levy of the Germany and practiced my Spanish with Mallorcan cyclist Juan Peralta. The high-energy race was a spec- tacle like no other sporting game I’ve attended – much faster pace than American Football (let’s put it that way).
I’ve had a love for Spain and the culture for quite a few years and now cycling is something I can add to that.
There is a sense of unfamiliarity, though, being on the island versus the mainland that I can’t quite put my finger on. However, the flavours in the food and wines and people serve as a reminder.
I envy Europeans for the convenience of having the Balearic Islands just a few hours away by plane.
I may have to trek further to make it to this delightful holiday destination, but I will without a doubt be back. And I’ll know too that the Balearic Islands and Majorca in particular are about more than just the beaches and the nightlife.