Why I dig the Bay of Naples and Pompeii
If you want to learn how the Romans really lived, then it’s all carved in stone...
ON the 24th June, 79 AD (and I don’t know how they know these things, perhaps he dated it in the top right corner), but Pliny the Younger wrote a letter describing the eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
As young Pliny scribbled while Pompeii and Herculaneum burned, Uncle Pliny the Elder was busy rescuing swimmers from the Bay of Naples.
It’s little details like this that you gleen when you sign up with guide Sorrentine Ugo Somma who has been regaling tourists with these nuggets for 22 years.
Pompeii, he reminds us was once a thriving town with a population of over 25,000 spread over two square miles. Now it is a living reminder of the transience of life.
Entering the main amphitheatre we stare on casts of figures on display covering their mouths or running as the hail of ash descends.
They leave behind perfectly formed utensils and foods, well you would too if lava was flowing down about your ankles.
Alas, there are some things they might have wanted obliterated, the frescoes on brothel walls giving away their rather louche pastimes.
Ugo walks us down to the old port where sailors trod the cobbled streets from the brothels to the shore.
Engraved in the road are granite triangles which are thought to have been ancient cats’ eyes.
This, and other new information, is dug up by archaeologists on a monthly basis to reveal more about what the Romans really did for us.
If you’re visiting in the summer it is best to go out early in the morning as it is as hot as, well not Vesuvius, but pretty hot all the same.
Ugo takes us back to my billet, the Hotel Moon Valley in Seino, only a short four stops by train from Sorrento where I cool down in the most scenic pool with views of Vesuvius to the right and the town of Vico Escencia below.
I take time later to explore the marina and dine at the Mustafa restaurant, a recommendation from my Travel Department rep, Angelica.
With panoramic views of the moored boats and quaint changing huts at the Lido it really is a pretty setting for sundowners and dinner.
My tip for your holiday would be to go half-board with guided tour. It will give you the freedom to eat your lunch in the hotel and go out for dinner as the mood takes you.
My next full day of sightseeing takes me to Capri and gives me the chance to channel my inner Audrey Hepburn, in my best polka-spotted top and blackened sunglasses. Capri conjures up all sorts of romantic images from the Blue Grotto to vintage sport Golden glow: Michelle enjoys all of Sorrento’s charms cars... a long way from its origins when it was inhabited by wild boars, hence its Greek name.
The trip from Sorrento by hydrofoil takes only 30 minutes and Ugo has another treat for us, taking us on a boat trip around an island of myths and legends..
The expedition costs €12 per person and is terrific value for a full hour in which we observe the houses of old celebrities and dart around the caves and famous Faraglioni Rocks of Capri.
Stella, Faraglioni Mezza and Scopola are the iconic symbols of Capri where the sirens hung out while calling sailors to their deaths.
The middle Faraglioni is also referred to as the tunnel of love... apparently it’s good luck to kiss your loved one as you drive through the arch.
At 5,000ft above sea level, the island is very much split into three segments with a funicular taking visitors to the middle where all the posh shops and hotels are.
I’m keen to explore the Villa San Michele, home to Swedish psychiatrist and writer Axel Munthe, who penned one of the first worldwide bestsellers The Story of San Michele.
I catch one of the best views from a corner of the villa where an ancient sphinx gazes over the island.
Before I leave Anacapri I take the chairlift to Mount Solaro on the summit for the ultimate view of the Faraglioni below, like three tiny stones against the translucent turquoise waters. For only €11 return this gentle 15-minute trip is one of the best value things to do on the island (http://www. capriseggiovia.it/en).
This being Italy, there’s always a religious festival and it’s the feast of the Madonna of Gratitude (I knew that!) when I visit.
Morning Masses are followed by cannons blasting and fireworks.
The 9th century wooden statue of the Madonna delle Grazie is carried through the streets that evening surrounded by altar boys, clergy and bishops. The whole town, in fact, comes out.
The next day is when the party really gets into full swing with dancing and feasting (well, I just had to join in).
Our last day on the Amalfi coastline, we take a lazy 60km drive from Sorrento to Salerno.
The locals are used to delays along this route but with lemon groves and olives hugging the terraces on one side and picturepostcard villages on the other, what’s the rush?
We pass by Positano with time to stop for photos and arrive at Amalfi in good time for some exploring.
The Basilica of the Crucifix and
Diocesan museum are a must visit in Amalfi town which has the best selection of gelateria I’ve seen in any town in Italy.
Down at the harbour Ugo points out a statue of Flavio Gioia, a local who in the 13th century perfected the nautical compass making sailing safer for sailors, if they avoided the sirens!
Ugo takes us out on the water again and we house-spot... Sophia Loren and Roger Moore liked it here, and who can blame them?
Surely nothing can top this, but the clifftop town of Ravello does. Home to the Rufolo villa and Gardens, it has been a site for panoramic concerts since 1953.
The summer season for concerts runs from April and they are popular tickets (www.ravellofestival.com).
Below me are breathtaking views of turquoise waters and umbrella pines, framing the pink oleander flowers. This stretch of coast is vibrant, busy, eclectic and utterly beautiful.
Only I need a guide to fill in the blanks. Now, where’s Ugo?