PENANG ROAD LAKSA

WHAT makes this Malaysian soup particularly good is its base of intense laksa ‘gravy’: spiced, soured fish stock flavoured with galangal, chillies, shrimp paste, tamarind, sugar and Vietnamese mint (Persicaria odorata). SERVES 4

2 x 350g sea bass or snapper, cleaned, scaled and trimmed (or ask your fishmonger to do this for you) 2 fat lemongrass stalks, bruised 1 tsp salt 1 quantity Penang laksa spice paste (see right) 1 quantity tamarind water (see top right) 3 tbsp fish sauce 2 tsp palm sugar 300g fresh, round rice noodles or 175g dried 5mm-wide flat rice noodles (banh pho) FOR THE TOPPINGS ¼ cucumber, cut into long thin strips

Small wedge fresh pineapple, cut into long thin strips

1 small crisp lettuce, sliced across into 1cm-wide strips

100g shallots or 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

BRING 1.5 litres of water to the boil in a large pan. Add the fish,, lemongrass and salt, bring back to a simmer and cook the fish for just 10 minutes. Then lift ton to a plate and leave to cool slightly. Add the spice paste, tamarind water, fish sauce and sugar to the pan, cover

2 red bird’s-eye chhillies, sliced Handful Vietnamese mint leaves

and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the laksa ‘gravy’ through a sieve into a bowl, pressing out as much flavour as you can, then return to a clean pan, bring to a simmer and keep hot.

Meanwhile, flake the flesh from the fish, discarding bones and skin.

Arrange the fish and all the topping ingredients on a serving plate. Bring a pan of unsalted water to the boil.

If using dried noodles, cook them in unsalted boiling water for 3-4 minutes or until just tender, then drain. If using fresh noodles, drop them into boiling water, leave for a few seconds to heat through, then drain.

Divide the noodles between four bowls and ladle over the hot laksa ‘gravy’. Invite your guests to add their desired toppings and some flaked fish.