INFINITY & beyond

Make the most of your surroundings in this glorious rural retreat

ACRACK of winter sunlight breaks through the long slivers of glass either side of the almost laughably large bed, coaxing me to wake up, get outside, and explore the 1,300 acres of rolling greenery and woodland into which the Farnham Estate is nestled neatly. Lucky, then, that laying on my bedside table is a map of the many surrounding walks!

Everything about the room is clearly designed with the hotel’s natural setting in mind.

Long, thin, vertical windows flank the bed’s huge wooden headboard, and plush blackout curtains shield glass double doors which open out on to a patio overlooking a view not dissimilar to the Windows background that once adorned every desktop in the country.

Even the bathroom is on brand, with a spyhole out to the world running the length of the bath – it’s pretty close to a perfect spot for whiling away an hour or so.

Farnham Estate is a sanctuary from the moment you turn off the main road and into its impressive, winding driveway. The sense of calm there is palpable and flows throughout the hotel and spa buildings, both in their design and in the noiseless way the spaces transition from one into another.

THE spa is calm and wonderfully serene, but the real selling point is the unique infinity pool, a body of water which is half indoors and half out.

The two parts are connected by a sliding glass door; slip through, and you’re in an outdoor infinity pool with views over nearby fields – although in the winter it seems more like a massive hot tub, steam rising into the countryside air in toasty tendrils.

To add to the charm, I’d wager it’s one of the only places in the country where your closest bathing neighbours are a herd of inquisitive cows.

The spa offers a range of treatments using the ESPA range of lotions and oils, which all smell divine. I was treated to the Hero package: a back exfoliation, hot stone massage, facial, and scalp mask and massage. Before the treatment starts, you’re invited to choose the smells you like most from a range of products and incorporate those into the treatment package – a thoughtful addition.

Emerging from the warren-like treatment area, it’s clear that exposed original stonework is a motif throughout; it’s also used in the intimate, underground Wine Goose Cellar Bar and the newly opened Cedar Rooms restaurant, weaving a thread of comprehension through very different areas of the complex.

Heading upstairs to the Cedar Rooms bar area is a distinct break with the tradition of the old building – it’s furnished as if you’ve fallen headfirst into Instagram: everything is a dusky pink, marble or pale mint green, with a huge mirror wall as a backdrop.

The restaurant is a return to the traditional. It’s built into a converted old stone building, and named after one of the oldest trees on the estate, the 300year-old Cedar of Lebanon.

We are led into a cosy, dimly lit stone room at the back of the restaurant lined with two long tables. Sat with a group of (mostly) strangers, the intimate room and comfortable surroundings put me instantly at ease, and the conversation – and wine – is soon flowing.

The five-course tasting menu on offer comes in at €55, which is really very reasonable given the quality and impeccable presentation of the food, along with the generous portions.

To start, we were each given a small plate of gravlax – thin slices of raw salmon. Now, I’m not particularly a fish lover, but it is remarkably tasty and not at all overpowering, most likely because it’s served very cold… actually, it’s almost refreshing.

I opted to follow it with the duck leg tortellini, which is served with vanilla milk foam, black truffle shavings, smoked gubbeen cheese, and black garlic. The duck was cooked to perfection, falling apart as I pushed it on to my fork.

A raspberry sorbet with orange foam separates the starter and main courses. It works as a palate cleanser, but is something I could have done without in all honesty.

Now, for the main event. I plump for the beef wellington, a favourite of mine. It comes with a range of vegetables and a sherry jus – and every part of it was absolutely divine. The beef itself is melt-in-the-mouth tender, and its pastry cocoon is both buttery and flaky.

At the back of the menu, the provenance of each of the dishes is included – and this beef has only travelled from down the road. It’s the attention to detail in the sourcing of ingredients for this menu which makes it so special for me; local produce is of paramount importance to the Cedar Rooms.

To finish, the bountiful cheeseboard blew all other pudding contenders out of the water for me.

It is simply enormous, boasting a selection of four cheeses (Cavan corleggy goats cheese, velvet cloud sheep cheese, cavanbert brie, and young buck blue) with homemade rye and oak biscuits and quince pear jelly. Again, much of the cheese is from Co. Cavan – and all of it is Irish.

This restaurant is as much a feast for the eyes as a treat for the taste buds. Everything is presented beautifully – in fact, the consensus around the table seemed to be that if staff heard any suspicious clinking on the way out, it’s likely guests stealing their welldesigned crockery.

Driving back down the meandering track from the hotel to its private entrance, I marvel at the ostentatious lushness of the land this retreat has the privilege to occupy. I’m leaving with a heavy heart. I don’t feel this is goodbye, though – I’m already planning my journey back for a second helping of that beef wellington…

WHERE

Ten minutes from Cavan, 90minute drive from Dublin.

HOW MUCH

Standard king room, from €119 a night.

THE SPA

Adults only, over 16. ESPA Hero treatment (scalp massage, back scrub, hot stone massage, facial. Treatment is €130.