Irish Daily Mail

Dare you take a bite of the new Frankenspr­eads?

Marmite peanut butter. Chocolate cream cheese. As M&S launches strawberry-infused clotted cream . . .

- by Sarah Rainey BETTER APART

RIPE, succulent strawberri­es and velvety clouds of clotted cream — no combinatio­n better conjures up a traditiona­l British summer. But with Wimbledon cancelled, we’ve had to find other ways to get our fix.

Step forward Marks & Spencer, which has come up with the ultimate amalgamati­on of the nation’s favourite seasonal treat — strawberry-flavoured clotted cream.

The unique, pink concoction took off online, but shoppers are divided, with some declaring the combinatio­n an ‘abominatio­n’, a sort of Frankenste­in’s monster of food.

Of course, it does solve the age-old cream tea question of whether to put cream or strawberry jam on your scone first, since you can now do both together.

It’s only one of a growing number of ‘Frankenspr­eads’ to be found on supermarke­t shelves. From ‘mayo-chup’ to Marmite peanut butter, we test the best — and the worst — and decide whether they’re better together, or apart ...

STRAWBERRY-FLAVOURED CLOTTED CREAM

€3.25, Marks and Spencer

WHAT IS IT? Luxury clotted cream, made at a farm in Devon from Jersey and Guernsey cows, infused with strawberry compote and chunks of fresh fruit.

It’s Barbie-doll pink in colour, velvety in texture and so thick it’s easier to spoon than spread.

TASTES LIKE: Super-sweet, silky-smooth cream, with a fruity aftertaste. But the flavour doesn’t live up to the vibrant, millennial-pink hue, and if you like jam, you’ll still want to serve this with a generous dollop on top.

Distinctly average, despite all the fanfare. BETTER APART

MARMITE PEANUT BUTTER

€3.25, Tesco

WHAT IS IT?

Launched amid much controvers­y, this combines the savoury flavour of the love-it-or-hate-it yeast spread with crunchy peanut butter. Made in response to apparently ‘overwhelmi­ng demand’ from shoppers, it was Marmite’s first new product in 117 years.

TASTES LIKE: Nutty spread with added salt and a tangy aftertaste I can’t quite put my finger on.

The Marmite gives it added depth and intensifie­s the flavour of the nuts. It’s runnier than ordinary peanut butter and quite claggy in the mouth, but unexpected­ly delicious. BETTER TOGETHER

CHOCOLATE AND HONEY SPREAD

€9.95, amazon.co.uk

WHAT IS IT? Raw honey with cocoa powder, made by organic specialist­s Q-Honey from wildflower blossoms in Lithuanian woodlands. It’s 90 per cent honey and 10 per cent cocoa.

TASTES LIKE: Smooth, velvety, liquid chocolate. There’s no added sugar, making it far less sickly sweet than I’d imagined. I can picture this working well in baking, on ice-cream and as a topping for pancakes or waffles. My only complaint is that it’s a little thin and translucen­t — more cocoa please! BETTER TOGETHER

SMOKY BACON SQUEEZY CHEESE

€4.53, scandi kitchen.co.uk

WHAT IS IT? Eaten on rye bread or crispbread in Norway and Sweden, this Scandinavi­an concoction combines spreadable cream cheese with crispy bits of smoky bacon. It’s only 2.9 per cent bacon, though — the rest is water, glucose syrup, flavouring and unidentifi­ed ‘meat broth’.

TASTES LIKE: Slightly-sweet, slightly-smoky white goo. Neither bacon nor cheese comes through strongly, so it’s a mishmash of odd flavours that tastes, quite frankly, vile. BETTER APART

PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY

€3.99, LIDL

WHAT IS IT: Peanut butter and jam is a tried-and-tested childhood favourite. This jar features stripes of smooth, sweet peanut butter and purple-hued grape jam, which blend together as you spread it on toast or bagels.

TASTES LIKE: Alternatin­g mouthfuls of sweet and savoury deliciousn­ess. The peanut butter is rich and nutty, while the jam is tart and tangy — the perfect bitterswee­t blend. The slightly-sour grape jam makes for a nice alternativ­e to the traditiona­l strawberry. BETTER TOGETHER

MAYONNAISE KETCHUP

€2.99, Tesco

WHAT IS IT: The original Frankenspr­ead, Heinz’s ‘Mayochup’ combines mayonnaise with ketchup to make a salmon-hued sauce.

It hit shelves last year, and fans say it’s the ultimate dip.

TASTES LIKE: Creamy ketchup, or spicy tomato mayonnaise. It lacks the citrusy tang of mayo, but makes up for that with paprika smokiness. It would taste great as a pasta sauce, or on top of a burger. It shouldn’t work, but it does — as long as you can get past the offputting pale pink colour. BETTER TOGETHER

ORANGE AND HONEY MARMALADE

€11.10, fortnumand­mason. com

WHAT IS IT: The ultimate toasttoppe­r for well-to-do breakfastl o v e r s , this combines the sharpness of marmalade with the sweetness of Wiltshire honey. Makers Fortnum & Mason suggest spreading it on a slice of warm baguette, or using it to make a sauce for duck.

TASTES LIKE: Richer-than-average marmalade, with a mellow hint of honey. Not too sweet or too insipid, this actually improves both elements. A little too jellified for my liking, but tasty. BETTER TOGETHER

CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE

€2.55, most supermarke­ts

WHAT IS IT: Made in collaborat­ion with chocolate brand Milka, this unlikely pairing is one of several divisive Philadelph­ia flavours. It first appeared in 2019, with shoppers declaring it ‘delicious’ on pancakes and croissants.

TASTES LIKE: Eating the top half of a cheesecake, making it utterly irresistib­le smeared on digestive biscuits. The sharpness of the cheese cuts through the creamy chocolate and it’s incredibly moreish. It sounds like the Frankenspr­ead from hell, but it’s the perfect pairing. BETTER TOGETHER

SPICY CHORIZO SAUSAGE JAM

€3.05, chilli wizards.co.uk

WHAT IS IT: The notion of combining chorizo sausage with jam can only have come about by accident, but the result is surprising­ly gourmet. Sweet and sharp, with a chilli kick, it’s more like a chutney than a jam, made with onion, chorizo and paprika.

TASTES LIKE: Caramelise­d onions, mostly, with just a hint of smoke and meatiness. But spicy sausage has no place in a pot of jam. The chorizo comes as an aftertaste; it leaves you feeling like you’ve taken a bite of sausage and ended up with a mouthful of jam.

It’s a nice idea, but my tastebuds are confused — I want one or the other.

WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COOKIES SPREAD

€3.25 Marks and Spencer

WHAT IS IT: There were stampedes in stores when this launched in October. There is indulgent milk chocolate spread on one side of the jar, and creamy white chocolate spread with cookie pieces on the other. TASTES LIKE: Sheer indulgence in a jar — a delight. Like an Oreo spread on toast, but even better than that. The flavours blend perfectly when spread and it’s even tastier when slightly melted. BETTER TOGETHER

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