Bittersweet symphony

LUDWIG van Beethoven was arguably better at what he did than anybody else who has ever lived. Bach, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci plus a handful of scientists and writers might give him a run for his money.

But only the most churlish would disagree that the German composer knew a thing or two about music. Today, exactly 250 years after Beethoven’s birth, his work remains the mainstay of the classical repertoire.

This being his sestercentennial year, concert seasons, gala performances and mega celebrations were planned across Europe. But the pandemic intervened, and most events have been postponed until 2021. A rollover Beethoven, if you will.

Still, as Europe slowly opens up as Covid-19 recedes, it might still be possible to pay your own personal homage to the composer

Beethoven was born in the Rhineland city of Bonn. Now, between you, me and the Berlin Wall, Bonn represents as good a city break as any of its more vaunted neighbouring Teutonic cities.

OK, it might not be the city that never sleeps — more like the one that gets a good eight hours’ kip — but nonetheless Bonn has much to offer.

The idiosyncratic nature of European history decreed that in the aftermath of the Second World War, Bonn should be the West German capital. This sleepy Rhineland town was chosen ahead of its rivals: Berlin, the old capital was off limits being totally surrounded by East Germany; while Munich and Nuremberg came with too much Nazi baggage.

SO Bonn it was. Sitting on the banks of the Rhine, some 30km south-east of Cologne, you can choose to cruise there. The Rhine flows from the Swiss Alps to the Hook of Holland, so any journey along the river gives a first class overview of the merger, as well as the contrast, of European cultures.

Whichever way you arrive in Bonn, you’ll be struck by the fact that Beethoven sonatas hang on every breeze. It’s charming.

You’ll also likely be struck by the sight of the Romanesque spires that adorn one of Germany’s oldest cathedrals.

Named after two martyred saints, the 13th century Basilica of St Cassius & Florentius was badly damaged during the Second World War. But it rose from the ashes to become a noble building once again, and a significant example of medieval Rhenish church architecture.

Just across the cathedral square, within view of the Rhine, runs Bonngasse. We’re looking for number 20, where in December 1770 Beethoven was born.

The vine-covered house, looking out on a cobbled inner courtyard, is now home to the BeethovenHaus Museum.

Inside it’s stuffed with portraits, scores, notes, instruments, batons, manuscripts. Refurbished for the anniversary, the building houses the console of an organ that the young Ludwig played, the viola he used in a court orchestra; and his last grand piano. Imagine – the very piano that Ode to Joy or Für Elise were perhaps played for the very first time. The museum poignantly describes Beethoven’s worsening deafness and the despair that went with it. And in an exhibit that might be filed under Too Much Information, a medical checklist reveals that he also suffered from chronic diarrhoea. Just try to put that out of your mind as you listen to the Moonlight Sonata in C# minor.

ASHORT stroll from Bonngasse stands the 14th century gothic church of St Remigius. This is where baby Ludwig was baptised — the marblebottomed baptismal font survives. Nearby is Palace Church, where, as a child, he was assistant court organist.

Ludwig gave his first performance when he was seven, although the promotional material said he was six — the same age as Mozart when giving his first recital the previous decade. This was showbiz, after all.

For an authentic Beethoven meal stroll down to The Em Hoettche at Markt 4, one of Bonn’s oldest restaurants dating back to 1389. It’s believed Beethoven wined and dined here, ‘entertaining a lady friend’ according to the café literature.

The two epicentres of Beethoven’s life were Bonn and Vienna. The composer wrote many of his most famous works in the Austrian city.

Both will be hoping that 2021 will see a return to normal life, and that a full concert season can be mounted in his honour, a year later than expected.

Until then it’s something of an unfinished symphony.