Bar is set high and reached in whiskey emporium
CELTIC WHISKEY BAR & LARDER
93 New Street, Killarney, Co Kerry Phone: 064 663 5700 celticwhiskeybar.com
KILLARNEY, for most Irish people, is somewhere through which we pass on our way to somewhere more remote and interesting. I first did so, at the age of three, when my parents and I were en route to Glenbeigh, although I regret to say, it failed to make any impression that I can remember.
It’s a town that gets a lot of stick. Sure, there’s lots of tat and plenty of shops — and restaurants — that cater exclusively for what we might politely called the less discriminating American tourist. But the lakes are stunning, the national park is a treasure, the mountains make an impressive backdrop and there’s the Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder.
We went for Sunday lunch and, having forgotten quite how narrow and winding the N72 is, miscalculated how long it takes to get there from our Cork home. We also thought it would be quiet, with the lack of foreign tourists. Well, all of Ireland seemed to have descended on the place, so parking turned out to be a rather involved process.
As a result, we didn’t need to worry about social distancing in the restaurant; by the time we got there, all the happy lunchers had gone and we had the place to ourselves.
The word ‘bar’ is significant. There is, indeed, a long and very impressive bar with hundreds of whiskies from all parts of the world (and plenty of gin and other stuff too, including a dazzling selection of craft beers).
So, bear in mind that it’s a bar and its raison d’être is whiskey. However, there’s a short and rather lovely menu that covers all the bases from foie gras to roast chicken and roast cod to Glenbeigh mussels with local nduja.. And there’s a short and absolutely brilliant wine list, which comes as no surprise because owner Ally McAlpine, is as fascinated by wine as he is about whiskey. He is also Ireland’s leading proponent of sherry appreciation.
Another string to this bar’s bow is some serious mixology. The short Sunday lunch menu has eight cocktail suggestions and I felt it would be foolish to pass on the opportunity to have an Old Fashioned subtly flavoured with lavender and I’m glad I did.
We started by sharing a platter of charcuterie (€9). Now such platters are increasingly common and usually the charcuterie comes from one of the big food services companies. There’s no harm in that but that is, in a sense, commodity charcuterie. Not so here. It’s all from Olivier Beaujouan in Castlegregory, genuinely hand
made and outstandingly good. There was venison saucission, a walnut one, a smoked version and a plain one. Plus splendid coppa, traditionally cured neck of pork. This was served with pickles, olives and lightly toasted sourdough bread.
The bread, somewhat more toasted, made a second welcome appearance bearing slices of still slightly pink foie gras, fresh from the pan, topped with two moltenyolked poached eggs and an anointing with buttery hollandaise sauce.
The foie gras had been glazed with an oloroso sherry reduction.
At €11, this twist on eggs Benedict has to be one of Killarney’s great bargains.
Crab ravioli (€11.50) was, in fact, one big crab raviolo with a generous filling of very fresh flesh scented with lemongrass, and served in a fennel broth (not really a bisque as the menu claimed).
The pasta was good but the underneath had dried out a little and so was a little too leathery for comfort. I suspect that this doesn’t happen when the kitchen is busier.
We finished by sharing a tarte tatin (€8.50) in which the apple element had been cut in long strips and rolled up in concentric circles before being caramelised. As I never manage to find the energy to make a tarte tatin like this — I just pile in the apple — it was a sweet, toffee-ish treat with buttery pastry and a little silky vanilla ice cream to boot.
WINE CHOICE
Not just a great small list but great value too. La Guita Manzanilla, an excellent dry sherry, is only €3.95 a glass and the amazing Hidalgo Tresillo 1874 Amontillado is €11.95. Montilla, very near Jerez, is represented by the Gran Barquero over 25 years old, for just €5.95. And you can have a ‘flight’ of any four fortified wines for €20. Table wines start at €5.25 or €20.95 a bottle.
Chateau de Santenay Mercurey Vieilles Vignes is €13.50 or €49.95 a bottle, Allain Chavy PulignyMontrachet is €19.95 or €69.95 a bottle. The excellent Viña Alberdi Rioja Reserva is €39.95 by the bottle only.
THE SMART MONEY
Very smart indeed. That foie gras Benedict for €11 is a bargain.
AND ANOTHER THING...
There’s a retail outlet for wines, beers and spirits with a great range.