A perfect marriage of old and new
Jack Murphy’s latest collection blends age-old traditional heritage techniques with feminine flourishes and memorable detail
FOR all the drudgery and broken dreams, 2020 was a progressive year for fashion. Sometimes collections looked and felt a bit souless but amid the endless pivoting, shop closures and chaos there was quite a lot to celebrate.
There was a new focus on sustainability and a reshifting of attitudes towards small businesses and Irish designers who, for many years, have struggled to compete with our desire for fleeting trends.
One such brand is Jack Murphy, (now helmed by Jack’s son Michael) whose sensationally well crafted collection of heritage pieces explore the spirit of age-old weaving techniques with a cutting edge approach.
As you might suspect, there is no
shortage of tartan, tweed, or wools - the entire offering evokes a crisp-aired countryside Ireland complete with fedora hats, suede gloves and snug gilets.
The heritage collection, a lockdown bestseller now that walking has become part of our daily sanity-saving ritual, includes waist-and ankle-length wax raincoats lined with plaid (the Malvern model could be mistaken for Burberry) with cosy accessories like faux fur lined wax hats with quilting detail.
The Donegal tweed range of fit and flare coats with moleskin trims (the devil is the detail) is by the far the spendiest collection but such is the price of a sustainable handcrafted armour that is made with love to last forever.
Worn with the Emma tweed mini for day or the softly structured Enya culottes by night they’re the kind of pieces you’ll wear all winter for years. Murphy’s aesthetic is refined, meticulous and carefully considered, all made in Ireland. There are also signature silhouettes like his elegant symmetric double breast blazer with curved button detailing, fitted waist-length wax jackets with bronze snap fasteners that cinch the waist and his slim fit peacoat with chic slanted pockets. Details like princess seams, curved hemlines and high collars with luxe tweed and felt lapels lift his from a ordinary classic heritage collection into more modern, memorable territory.
As for the how-to wear part of the collection? I’d generally treat tartans and tweed like a neutral and try not to overthink it worn with other prints. Two clashes can sometimes make a right.
A good idea to use tartan and plaid as an anchor for everyday basics in your wardrobe - slung over slouchy knits, jeans or loungewear in snazzier fabrics, a faux suede, or leather joggers.
I love a wine/green colour combination but tartan and tweed are often characterised by, say, a festive traditional theme - so try to pluck out a primary shade and avoid mixing red or burgundy with khaki, or you risk looking like you’ve mistaken the season. Although nowadays when our most exciting venture is around the block - who is judging?
Jack Murphy is one of the Irish brands taking part in the 45th Showcase Ireland Creative Expo on Monday January 25th with over 100 makers from all over the country taking part in the Expo’s first ever virtual event. See showcaseireland.com