IT’S ALL WHITE ON GREEK IDYLL
THE sparkling white buildings of Santorini are often repainted daily to keep their gleaming smile fresh. I’d be smiling too, if I was Santorini.
Behold, the most instagrammable caldera in the world. This sublime island is the backdrop of many an engagement/honeymoon/ babymoon selfie, Instaboyfriends’ arms stretched as far as the selfie sticks will reach. Bang in the south of the Aegean’s moody blue waters is one of Greece’s most visited islands — Santorini’s shine has never been brighter.
Celebrities and glamourpusses flock annually to the tiny historic towns on this little island, reached by plane or ferry — private jet is, let’s say, optional. The resulting effect of the stark buildings and aquamarine horizons just keep the crowds flocking from all corners of the globe, meaning that in peak summer, it’s beyond busy.
Any memorable trip is about bustling crowds before sudden moments of quiet and surprise views. So how do you best find this island’s treasures? Follow me.
At great staggered heights, the gloriously boujis town of Oia — though a playground for the rich and glamorous — has something for everyone, if you look beyond the iPhone for a hot second.
The tiny winding streets run amok with the designer fashion-clad sets and you’ll be hard pressed for a chill time along the main strip — but that’s not to say the views and decadence aren’t worth navigating.
Off the little beaten tracks are some honey pots of seclusion, stillness and wonder.
Katikies opened its first property in Santorini in 1987, coincidentally the year yours truly was born. While I stayed at the flagship, it has a collection of stays dotted around the island — some in the sparkly white Oia, others in the old town, plus hyper-glam Mykonos.
The hotels vary from quintessentially Santorinian — check: all blue and white everything — to muted pastels, heavy woods and monastic (Katikies Garden). My suite, overlooking the caldera, was the perfect spot for morning yoga and afternoon naps, with a giant circular shower room and a massive white bed fit for my own honeymoon for one.
You can be guaranteed, your time on Santorini won’t be salad days — there’s just too much above and beyond your average Greek salad to be devouring. The island has become a mecca for fine dining establishments, with Michelin star chefs updating hotel dining spots and giving even the best taverna moussakas a run for their money — though there’s time and space in the belly for everything when on holidays.
The menu at Katikies Santorini, as revitalised by Greek-Italian star chef Ettore Botrini recently, displays the same playfulness and variety. If you didn’t think tasting menus and dainty, deeply photogenic ribboned tarts and other exquisite art-food had made it to this historic island, think again. In-house restaurant Chroma and sister restaurant Selene — from whose monastic wine caves lots of wine is procured — are devastatingly impressive.
There’s twinkly lights and a waiter to each diner, moving in perfect choreography to unveil upwards of 15 small dishes created with masterful culinary wizardry. Amberjack sashimi contrasts against herb gazpachos, roasted lamb, sea urchin risotto, or zucchini tart that’s so artful you will wince when the chef slices in before your very Santorini wine-hazed eyes.
Then there’s the humble white aubergine, local tomatoes and feta, and for those moments when you’re hungry, hungover and in pure poolside mode, insanely good wraps, burgers and shakeratos.
I’ve been on boats before. I’ve been on cruise ships, I’ve been on catamarans and ferries. I’ve been on my inflatable kayak and a lilo but nothing could prepare me for yacht life. If you’re gonna splurge on a charter for the day, it’s in Santorini’s magnificent caldera.
The drama of the villadotted cliffs against the turquoise waters and whitemarble bays can be enjoyed to the max upon one of the Katikies boutique hotel group’s two boats.
Opt for hops to the likes of Ios or Folegandros if you’re feeling flush — from €3,000 based on up to ten passengers, with meals and drinks included. Maybe I’ll just look on from my lilo...
TRAVEL FACTS
Fly to Santorini via Athens with Aegean Air, from €166, aegeanair.com. A room at Katikies starts at €350 based on two sharing, including breakfast, katikies.com.