In the THICK of it

The ways to style thick hair — and what should be avoided

IT’S the least heard complaint in hairdressing but it is a real life problem for some, and those people who have thick unmanageable or coarse hair have a daily battle trying to control or mange hair that is problematic because of its sheer bulk and texture.

In many cases extreme thickness is simply tolerated, tied back, or cut so short that its no longer a hassle or inconvenience. Or sometimes extreme measures are taken — undercuts, section removal, excessive thinning or chemical intervention. Short term solutions may work but long term the problem will only resurface and in the case of undercuts or removed areas then the issue is likely to be worse as the grown back areas will only ensure even extra density and volume.

But there are solutions and today we will talk you through the various techniques and procedures that can guarantee easy to maintain thick hair whilst not compromising on style.

Let’s start by looking at the best styles and shapes for thick hair: of course, as in all cases, the first thing we as hairstylists look at irrelevant of any hair type is suitability, and the thicker the hair the more vital this aspect becomes.

But in general terms, the method or techniques used to ‘de-bulk’ heavy hair is the single most important factor in terms of reducing the weight and creating flattering shapes and profile.

The traditional approach — a combination of smart layering and texturising — will certainly lighten heaviness and density but extreme caution must be taken with this approach because the balance ratio of layers to length must be absolutely precise.

If the layers are too short , a stack effect will occur — though not entirely life threatening it can be unflattering and old fashioned In style and finish, the classic ‘Rachel’ haircut was similar and it works brilliantly on medium textured hair but on thick, coarse hair it can be raw and crude.

In my experience longer layers, using a classic square or triangular method combined with a soft texturising technique, will not only eliminate bulk and weight but also encourage natural texture and movement.

This approach will modernise the overall appearance of the haircut but also make it easier to manage and style.

With this concept the options are endless — the hair length can be altered to the most suitable point and of course other style options can be added — fringes, bangs, side fringes or disconnected layers can all be incorporated once the correct length and balance have been established.

A classic but often hazardous method of taming thick hair is the thinning technique — sounds effective and simple enough but it is also potentially the most common error of judgment with extremely thick hair. When thinning shears have been used excessively, the hair may appear thinner — especially if cut when the hair has been dried smooth or ironed. But once the wearer washes their hair it is often an unwanted surprise to find the recently thinned hair is now an unrecognisable hay stack of lengths and textures.

If you can imagine the thinning shear used indiscriminately through a thick dense head of hair, it’s not hard to understand why when finished that the thinned hair, though it may feel lighter, has no real structure or design. The result often means a much shorter, radical haircut to correct the problem and though some thinning may work as addition to a technically precise haircut, when used excessively all over without a foundation shape then the outcome is generally unsuccessful.

Any thinning approach should really only be used to add softness or finishing details to a specific haircut pattern or style — approach this with caution. The undercut or panel removal aspect of subtracting weight from extremely thick hair types is a relatively modern approach. It is effective, interesting and quite often liberating for those wearers of very long hair or shorter-haired fans who simply want to make a statement w ith their looks.

It works primarily when a section of hair — usually between the occipital bone (the point of your head at the back that is most pronounced) — and the nape (hairline ) is removed by clippers (or even shaved) to release the weight.

This area is covered by the hair above this point so is only visible when the hair is tied up or exposed. Many wearers make a key statement of the undercut — designs, colour and even tattoos to show the extremity.

Of course it can be a nightmare to grow out and will take up to 18 months to really blend with the rest of your length but it’s effective and since you are not really impacting on the remaining hair internally, there is no damage incurred by thinning, texturising or chemicals.

But it is also irreversible short term — this method also has great value in shorter haircuts, opening the doors for those thick-haired style followers who want the most up-to-the minute trend looks.

French bob with a fringe but your hair is too thick and it might look like thatch? Simply add an undercut to lighten the bulk and you’re there. You can even remove the side panels to make it truly streamlined but remember to seek out a brilliant precision cutter as these haircuts are based on a combination or design geometry and aesthetic.

Experience and vision is essential — but have fun. This is the playground of creativity for stylists and clients alike.

Finally, the cosmetic way of thinning thick unruly wayward coarse unmanageable hair — if you seriously love your long thick hair then your investment on how you manage your hair is what’s vital.

START with a great quality smoothing shampoo and conditioner — smoothing and moisturising the cuticle is the basis for healthier sleeker looking hair.

Our clients are inclined to have this process or treatment in the salon as part of their regular blow dry appointment, with the blow dry then lasting up to a week. some clients have been known to get up to three full weeks with only a few strokes of a smoothing iron in between.

Of course home maintenance is important too smoothing creams and straightening sprays are vital for eliminating volume when blow drying hair at home but of course this is all down to your own skill or ability. We recommend the Alfaparf Semi di Lino smoothing range for a luxurious lustrous shine and finish for even the thickest of hair.

And of course, the most extreme option is the chemical smoothing treatment, less popular today than a decade ago but still very much a salon service in countries where the humidity and heat play havoc with angry, thick textures.

This is a chemical treatment that uses keratin to smooth the cuticle making the hair more manageable sleeker and shinier.

There are some major drawbacks to this treatment — it can effect your hair colour radically, especially blondes; the result can often give the hair lank, flat appearance and in some cases the results can be marginal, meaning the hair still needs as much maintenance and management as ever. It’s a pretty controversial technique and process which has seen its popularity dip in recent years but for the believers it’s a godsend.

For any specific individual queries or questions on your personal hair problem — thick, thin or otherwise — Leisa and I are only to happy to answer your problems personally, so contact us via our Instagram account or the email address on this page.

Got a hair problem? and Leisa are Paul your here to anwer your queries. Send to features@ questions write to Stafford dailymail.ie or Daily Features, Irish Hair Clinic, Haddington Buildings, Mail, 2 4. Road, Dublin Haddington Leisa cannot Paul and individual enter into correspondence.