A landscape of LIGHT
This first-time visitor to Madrid finds out just what makes Spain’s capital somewhere you need to put on your must-see list this year
I’M not alone in having Spain at the top of my go-to holiday destination list; however, despite numerous sunsoaked trips to the land of flamenco and tapas, Madrid hadn’t really been on my radar... until now.
As a first-time visitor, it helped that my base for my stay, the Vincci Soho Hotel, is located in the historical old town area of Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter), once home to notable Spanish figures, including Cervantes, author of Don Quixote.
We couldn’t have chosen a better location from which to explore the city. Our first stop was just opposite our hotel — restaurant Lamucca de Prado, which was packed with locals, always a good sign. A delicious meal confirmed their good taste.
We set out on a guided walking tour through one of Madrid’s most famous locations, Puerta del Sol. This bustling square acts as a junction for many of the city’s most historical and busiest streets. It was originally the site of one of the city’s gates, so should be top of your list if you’re a history buff.
A famous clock sits atop the Casa de Correos building, the current headquarters of the Madrid regional government. For over a century, tradition has it that, across Spain, people ring in the new year by eating 12 lucky grapes as this clock strikes the 12 chimes of midnight.
Nearby is another mustvisit, Gran Vía museum, a cultural hub providing visitors a chance to see some extraordinary works of art. Named after the street on which it is located, it is in a historic building that for more than a century housed the Joyería Aldao jewellers.
It is now a cultural space, with installations that change every few months, showcasing a different way to approach the world of contemporary art. If you have children or teenagers and want to encourage an appreciation for art, this is a great place to start, as it’s immersive and tactile — not your typical museum experience.
The cultural overload continues at the Royal Collections Gallery, which is built into Madrid’s Royal Palace complex and overlooks the Campo del Moro Park gardens. This museum offers a journey through the history of the Spanish royal family and is a fascinating journey back to the Middle Ages right up to the present day.
My interest in the royals relates to Letizia Ortiz Rocasolano, the current Queen of Spain and wife of King Felipe VI. However, did you know that before she met her king — who was then Prince of Asturias — she worked as a journalist? It’s the closest real-life story I can find to Netflix’s A Christmas Prince, so my intrigue was certainly piqued.
If you find you need a bit of fresh air postmuseum, you are well placed to join a walking tour of Plaza de Espana, Temple of Debod and Sabatini Gardens.
We opted to get a taste for the outdoor living that the Spanish do so well and enjoyed an inexpensive and utterly delicious coffee nearby before setting off to experience an exciting shopping destination — because what is a city break without some shopping?
We made our way to the exclusive Golden Mile in the Barrio de Salamanca. This is where you will find luxury and designer brands. The beautifully refurbished Galería Canalejas is the city’s newest home of luxury and gastronomy, set in one of the most historical parts of the city.
With more than 40 fashion, jewellery, fragrance and accessories shops from some of the top luxury brands in the world, including Dior and Hermes, it’s a beautiful shopping experience. Its Food Hall features more than 13 restaurants of different specialties, as well as Michelin options.
‘Food Hall’ doesn’t do it justice — it is a foodie-lover’s dream and the perfect place if you have just embarked on a day of serious shopping.
The rest of our time was spent embracing every corner of this exciting city. If you want a fabulous rooftop experience, visit the JW Marriott Hotel in the iconic Metropolis building on Gran Via Avenue. It has breathtaking views of the city, which we enjoyed while sipping our freshlymade cocktails. If you want to go all-out, I would suggest staying in this beautiful boutique hotel. Other highlights included a tapas trail through Madrid’s Hueras and Austerias areas. My favourite was Casa Alberto, a centuries-old tavern founded in 1827, its walls crammed with literary, theatrical and bullfighting memorabilia. It serves excellent traditional Madrid cuisine, and if you are brave enough, order the oxtail, as it is famed as being the best in the city.
Finally, a trip to Madrid would not be complete without visiting Casa Botín, a restaurant established almost 300 years ago, listed in the Guinness World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world. It has cooked succulent dishes in its famed woodfired oven for three centuries — the fire has never been extinguished — and is well worth popping by to experience and enjoy.
A perfect evening can be spent wandering the buzzy city, taking in the lovely atmosphere that comes with the outdoor dining culture.
Another interesting pit-stop was the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, to see its Women Masters exhibition, which will run until the end of February.
This is an exhibition curated by Rocio de la Villa and features about 100 exhibits, including paintings, sculptures and works on paper and textiles. It offers a unique showcase of works by women dating from the late 16th century until the 20th century.
It was amazing to see such championing of female-led work from a time that was so male-dominated. There was also a hugely impactful exhibition in celebration of the 15th anniversary of the death of Pablo Picasso — if you are looking for a burst of inspiration and creativity, you will certainly find it here.
We wrapped up our trip to this beautiful city with a walking tour of the cultural site of the Paseo del Prado (between Plaza de Cibeles and Plaza de Carlos V), El Retiro Park and the Jerónimos neighbourhood, which is known as the ‘Landscape of Light’ and was even declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2021.
Here you can walk along the first of Europe’s tree-lined promenades, visit worldfamous museums such as the Prado, and take in some of the monuments considered to be a symbol of Madrid such as the Puerta de Alcalá. Or perhaps you’d like to simply sit peacefully and take in the gardens surrounding the Palacio de Cristal, aka The Glass Palace.
I left feeling as though I knew a little more about this city that is rich in culture, art, luxury and shopping — and filled with that famed Spanish hospitality.