Perfume that made my man declare undying love...

BACK after a splendid week’s hols, I am delighted to report that my boyfriend of ten years spent the entire time following me about, gazing passionately into my eyes, taking my face in his hands and declaring undying love.

This unprecedented emotion was down to a travel phial of Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Iris (€25 for 7.5ml eau de toilette, escentric.com) that I had ferreted away — and, boy, was it worth every penny.

Perfume should always be manipulative, none more so than so-called molecular fragrances.

I say ‘so-called’ because all today’s scents are molecular — meaning they rely on synthetic ingredients — starting with the first modern perfume, Guerlain’s fern classic, Jicky, of 1889 (€120 for 75ml eau de parfum, flannels.ie).

When Chanel launched her No5 in 1921, it relied on ten times the usual amount of aldehyde, giving it its sparkling, champagne quality (€76 for 35ml eau de parfum, brown thomas.com).

Another 20th Century classic — Dior’s Eau Sauvage (1966) was the first to use hedione, a jasminederived aroma-chemical bestowing a verdant, sap-rising element that renders one ravishing (€76.50 for 50ml eau de toilette, boots.ie).

Still, some scents are rather more molecular than others. The Escentric Molecules brand owes its existence to an aroma-molecule that doesn’t exist in nature.

Iso E Super was concocted in a lab at International Flavors & Fragrances in 1973. For years, it hovered about the background of perfumes such as Lancome’s Tresor of 1990 (now €55 for 30ml eau de parum, super drug.com), creating a fresh, yet velvety musky, hypnotically alluring effect.

GERMAN nose Geza Schöen had always adored Iso E Super. Finding himself freelance in the early 2000s, he started playing about with higher doses, before unveiling his brainchild, Escentric Molecule 01 (from €50 for a 30ml eau de toilette refill, escentric. com), in 2006.

This single-note sensation may have been minimalist in its ingredients but it was maximalist in effect, with tales of captivated strangers hurling themselves at its wearers. Some can’t smell anything at all, declaring it the emperor’s new scent; others are utterly bewitched. Love it or indifferent to it, Molecule 01 became a cult, hailed as the perfume of the 21st century, and gathering a crowd of celebrity fans including Rihanna, Beyonce, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Davina McCall.

‘It’s one of those sexy skin scents that makes you want to nestle into it. It combines with — almost caramelises with — your own scent to create a personal signature,’ notes its creator.

Brace yourself, because now it gets complicated. In subsequent years, Geza took a host of other molecules and put them centre stage.

So after Molecule 01, his original smash hit, he gave us: Molecule 02: Mineral Amber; Molecule 03: Grassy Roots; Molecule 04: Cocooning Radiance; and Molecule 05: Piney Cashmere. Experience them in the Molecule 8.5ml Discovery Set (€40 for five 8.5ml vials).

He has also concocted the Molecule + range, six fragrances, containing the original Molecule 01 plus another ingredient, such as tea, mandarin or guaiac wood, which is where my beloved Molecule 01 + Iris comes in. Minis are on sale via two M+ 2ml Discovery Sets (€20 for three 2ml vials).

Then there’s the Escentric range, fragrances E01 to E05, with the original Iso E Super mixed with other ingredients — having a structure more akin to perfume’s traditional heart, base and top.

Escentric 01: the original plus pink pepper, lime, and iris incense; Escentric 02: Sparkling Freshness; Escentric 03: Arboreal Concoction; Escentric 04: Hazy Fantasy; and Escentric 05: Deconstructed Mediterranea. These can be tried via the Escentric 2ml Discovery Set (€30 for five 2ml vials).

Most recently, the brand produced a Harrods limited edition, H01(€210 for 100ml, harrods. com), its first eau de parfum.

It all adds up to 17 Escentric Molecule creations in total.

It’s damnably confusing. Yet, the aromas are so sublime, so seductive, that one succumbs.

Imitations abound: Eden Perfumes No.479 Molecular 1 (€21 for 30ml, edenperfumes.co.uk) even declaring itself an ‘Escentric Molecule 01 dupe’.

True, they will give a sense of whether Iso E Super might work for you. But I’d rather wield my 7.5ml of scented heaven.

battle scene, and seeing her home’s history being recreated.

‘There are moments where there is a scene so perfectly authentic, of horsemen riding into your courtyard,’ she says, laughing, ‘and then they go “Cut!” and all the riders pick up their phones.’

Celebrities such as Kit Harington and Liv Tyler, who starred in the BBC series Gunpowder, and Dame

Judi Dench, who appeared in the 2011 film of Jane Eyre, have graced her home, but Lady Edward — Gabrielle to her friends — doesn’t introduce herself. ‘I’m shy. I don’t see the superstars.’

Reluctant to reveal fees, she says they are nonetheless very helpful: ‘It means there is a significant contribution towards restoration.’