Artist whose life was far more colourful than his paintings
CARAVAGGIO, born in Tuscany, plied his trade largely in Rome and Naples. He led a violent, debauched life — he enjoyed prowling the streets of Rome, sword at hand, looking for victims to engage in an argument or a fight.
Surprisingly he made it to the ripe old age of 38. But he left behind some of the most sensational and glorious — not to mention campest — art.
Should you be in Belfast any time from May 10 onwards, the Ulster Museum is hosting a truly impressive exhibition: two paintings by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (as he was seldom called): The Supper at Emmaus (1601) and The Taking of Christ (1602).
The Jesuit Community in Dublin, with the support of the National Gallery of Ireland, has facilitated the loan of the latter. As it happens, Caravaggio appears in the painting. But don’t get the wrong idea: this is not some 17th century selfie.
Caravaggio is there as a witness, or an everyman who, in his failure to act, is complicit in the drama.
Well, we’ve all been there — although probably not able to articulate threat, seduction or homoerotic ambiguity quite as well as Caravaggio did. For this is one of the greatest pieces of art in the world.
The tarry darkness of his paintings with their ethereal menace should set you up nicely for the afternoon.
The exhibition at the Ulster Museum is part of the celebrations of the 200th birthday of the National Gallery, London.
In Naples you’ll see Caravaggios pretty much in their home surroundings. By longestablished convention, I am obliged to call the city edgy, although I only have a rough idea of what that means. Never mind.
Here’s a 25-carat, caskconditioned, batteries included tip. The Seven Works of Mercy (Sette opere di Misericordia) is tucked away in the church of Pio Monte della Misericordia. (Isn’t Misercordia such a beautiful word? It should mean misery or something, but in fact means mercy. Hats off to all concerned.)
To see The Seven Works of Mercy, go to Pio Monte. The chapel and formal rooms are open most mornings.
The best view is generally believed to be from the upstairs rooms overlooking the chapel. OK, it may not be the Ulster Museum, but it’s still worth the journey