SKIING AS SUN AROSA
Thomas Mackie finds relaxing old-fashioned charm in a Swiss ski resort off the beaten track
As the sun began to rise behind the white mountain tops of Arosa, I pulled down my goggles and started to zigzag down the slope, making fresh tracks in the virgin snow ahead of the crowds.
Where you might expect to ski alongside the world’s best in Klosters, or buy your next Gucci number in glam St Moritz, this Swiss resort ticks different boxes – old-fashioned and traditional.
The alpine village of Arosa is hidden away from the hustle and bustle, but what it lacks in flamboyance it more than makes up for in charm.
We stayed at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, and despite it being unassuming from the outside, the style is saved for Carlo Rampazzi’s designed interiors where modern art meets 80s funk, with the overall look luxurious yet not too formal.
But the best part about the hotel is its very own private mountain railway, where guests can take their skis from the boot room and be at the lifts within two-and-ahalf minutes.
So to make full use of it, we got up early on our first morning in the village and headed to the top of the mountain for breakfast.
We ate at the Weisshornhutte, a mountain hut at the top of the peak, before being first to step out on to the slope, watch the sunrise then glide down the mountain. Idyllic.
The resort caters for all abilities. From wide pistes that encourage lengthy sweeping turns to sharp drops that make your heart race, Arosa is ideal for the whole family.
After a morning of solid skiing, we had worked up an appetite and settled down for lunch at the Alpenblick, a cosy chaletstyle pit stop positioned halfway up the slope.
As we gazed up at the summit and the glorious blue sky, various cold platters of Swiss meat, hearty local sausages and cheese fondue were placed on the table.
The only downside to the cheese fondue is it can leave you feeling slightly bloated, but this is soon alleviated by
relaxing in front of the fire with a Swiss digestif, before heading back for an afternoon on the slopes.
After a long day’s skiing, the best way to ease off the aches and pains is to head for Tschuggen Grand’s luxurious spa with it’s quirky abstract glass skylight designs. But beware.
After a relaxing detox in the Jacuzzi and outdoor pool, I tried the sauna. After closing my eyes and replaying the events of a marvellous day in my head, I opened them to discover two men either side of me – and made the starkers revelation that this was a naked sauna.
The sand appeared to run down slower and slower in the timer as I spent 15 minutes sweating.
By the evening, I was ravenous so we dined at La Vetta, Tschuggen Grand’s very own Michelin-star restaurant.
It was not your classically lengthened five-hour gourmet tuck-in, but rather a quicker dine. International flavours were well selected by it’s fine chef who served a variety of dishes from braised lamb shoulder to salmon trout. The hotel has more to offer than just fine dining, however, with a total of four restaurants.
The Basement, despite not sounding too appealing, offers casual and fast food such as burgers and even has a bowling alley inside for entertainment after dessert.
On our second day in Arosa, we had a jam-packed itinerary full of winter activities. To kick things off in the morning we were taken on a squirrel walk through alpine woodland near our hotel.
The winter sun shone through a coppice of pine trees as I waited for the squirrels to run up my leg and snatch the nuts from my outstretched palm. I
was lucky enough to experience one scurry down the slope and grab the grub from my hand before retreating back into the wilderness.
This was then followed by snowshoeing, where we worked up a sweat scrambling through metres of deep snow and were gifted with stunning views of the mountains of Arosa.
We then finished our action-packed day with a family favourite, sledging. As I raced down the terrifyingly quick tracks, snow flying up towards my face, crisscrossing the white plains like a Winter Olympian, my thoughts ran back over a holiday of, adrenaline, relaxation and escapism.
It might have more glamorous neighbours – but charming tradition is the jewel in Arosa’s crown.
Resort is hidden away from hustle and bustle