FJORD ALMIGHTY
Ailbhe Daly laps up Norway’s stunning scenery and culture during a luxury 7-day cruise with Holland America Line
NORWAY is a country of great contrasts: from the fairytaleesque fjords and cities built on sea fronts to snow-capped mountains, it can be a lot to take in.
It can also be a country that is difficult to see, despite the fact it boasts an impressive rail network.
One way of seeing it is by cruise ship, and that’s exactly what Holland America Line provides.
Our seven-day excursion aboard the Nieuw Statendam sailed from Amsterdam Port in the Netherlands through the North Sea before meandering up Oslofjord to the Norwegian capital.
Opening the curtains of our verandah stateroom and seeing the sloping fjords dotted with wooden houses is an experience not to be forgotten.
But the views only served to improve, as from Oslo we sailed to Kristiansand, Stavanager and Flam – each providing a different slice of Norwegian culture as well as stunning views.
We docked in Oslo at 7am and after breakfast set off to explore.
The first thing about Norway that can be said is both the country and its citizens are charming.
Passersby were quick to smile and staff in shops were eager to help.
We took a boat taxi to
Museum Island to visit the Viking Museum. We walked up a steep hill lined with gorgeous wooden homes before happening across a small restaurant set near our destination.
It was called Cafe Hjemme hos Svigers – and if you find yourself in the area, try their chicken burger with a focaccia bread bun.
The Viking Museum is inexpensive and informative, boasting three full-size ships among its collection.
It doesn’t take long to navigate but provides an engaging experience and every crevice is packed with something interesting to look at.
Booking in advance meant we got our tickets for just €10 each.
Kristiansand was our second destination and a perfect chance to sink our teeth into some pastries.
We went to a bakery called Geheb Conditori and opted for a long pastry filled with stewed apple and creme de patisserie, and finished with icing sugar.
The town is compact, with narrow streets lined with international shops and smaller native ones.
After taking in the sights, we returned to the ship to prepare for the night ahead.
Stavanger was next. An early start was well worth it as we travelled with a contingent from the cruise ship on to a smaller cruiser and travelled up Lysefjord.
Every second, new
The town is compact with its narrow streets lined with global and local shops
sights unfolded until we didn’t think there could possibly be anything else new to see. But Norway never fails to stun, with constantly changing landscapes meaning there was always something new to look at.
After a stop to feed some mountain goats (yes, really), we learned some of the history surrounding Lysefjord and ended our excursion with some traditional Norwegian waffles with jam and sour cream.
If ever you find yourself daydreaming about a fairytale land, you may just be imagining Flam.
We snaked our way up a narrow fjord before docking in the tiny town, and it showed Norway off at its best.
We spent our morning aboard a wooden train travelling to Vatnahalsen – 811m above sea level. The train track has 20 tunnels, 18 of which were built by hand.
In between tunnels, the valley spread out below us with rolling hills and waterfalls dotting the area.
Every turn led to a view fit for a postcard and it seemed that Flam stunned not only us, but others from our cruise.
We used the last of our time in Flam to soak up some sun on the banks of the fjord before returning to the ship and taking the last of our snaps of the stunning town.
Holland America Line’s Nieuw Statendam proved to be an excellent base for our trip. Even if you decided not to leave the ship at any ports, there was still an endless amount of things to do on board.
Two pools, a casino, shops specialising in jewellery and perfumes, dining options and countless workshops and events are just some of what HAL offered.
Being first-time cruisers, we were a little bit apprehensive about the cabin size and if we’d feel trapped.
HAL were quick to allay our worries with our gorgeous verandah stateroom. Equipped with an extremely comfortable king-size bed, a large TV with plenty of movies and live channels and more than enough wardrobe space for both of us, the room was nothing short of perfect.
While the cabins are small on paper, the use of space is clever and means you have access to everything you need without feeling cramped.
We spent our first sunset on the balcony, sipping Champagne while we cruised through the North Sea – it was a luxury we didn’t know we wanted.
The food offerings on board mean there was something for everyone. While there was plenty of restaurants where you could pay extra to eat at, there are numerous options included within your fare.
And if you were so inclined (we were!), breakfast could be delivered to your room for no extra charge.
These ranged from fresh pizzas and hot sandwiches at New York Pizza, delicious burgers and fries at Dive-in to the bustling Lido Marketplace where countless different foods were available at different stations.
These included an Asian-style eatery, an Italian, a carvery and freshlybaked desserts but each boasted a different menu of specials daily.
It allowed you to graze while walking through without the hassle of having to wait for your food – something that would benefit hungry kids!
The Pinnacle Grill, Rudi’s Sel de Mer, Tamarind and Cannaletto all incurred a small charge to eat there but the service is incredible. All offer a greatly different experience but they were delicious. We were spoiled by host Jocelyn Wu, who dined with us and the other press guests each night.
We were treated to wine pairings with our meals, converting us into wine drinkers within a night or two.
While we didn’t have a bad meal on board, the standout was one at a pop-up of famous Dutch restaurant De Librije, which has held three Michelin stars for well over a decade.
Our meal was incredible. The main course of braised lamb neck was so perfectly cooked that a knife wasn’t needed to pull the meat apart.
Paired with a lightly curried sauce and accompanied by a cabbage leaf with couscous inside, it was the gem of culinary offerings on board.
Cruises are viewed as a holiday for the rich and to an extent that’s true.
However, if you plan everything you can make your cash go a long way.
Drinks packages allow you access to soft drinks, premium hot drinks and alcohol which can be a saviour. Also, not having to worry about extra spending when you start your voyage is a major plus.
But the selection of things to do on board that are included in your fare is staggering. Holland America Line offer a stellar selection of music, with acts taking over four locations.
The BB King Blues Club was always fresh and funky, encouraging revellers to dance, putting their spin on classics as well as reimagining newer tracks.the Rolling Stone Rock Room features a band that bash out a myriad of well-known tunes, as well as providing a little bit of backstory leading to an entertaining and informative performance.
Billboard Onboard proved popular time and time again, with two talented pianists dueting to perform Billboard 100 hits. The pair also took requests, and stood out for us as one of the most versatile acts on board.
For those of you more health and fitness-minded, HAL has you covered there. An onboard gym means you can get your workout in while sailing. We’d guess the view is probably a bit better than your local gym too.
And if you want to pamper yourself, the Greenhouse Salon and Spa provides a vast array of massages and beauty treatments to suit anyone’s needs – or budgets.
The attention to detail is really what made Holland America Line stand out. The lush carpeted areas housing the lifts and stairs, the wellmaintained visual appearance and welcoming staff are just a selection of what HAL does right.
A cruise may seem out of your budget, but if you book in advance and break the cost down over a series of months, it can gift you with an unforgettable trip. ■■Holland America Line will embark on the 7-Day Viking Saga from May 3 to 10 and June 28 to July 5 next year. Rooms start from £1,199pp. Visit www.hollandamerica.com.
The selection of things to do on board is just staggering