Seamingly good advice for your wardrobe
Tips on how to make the best of your clothes
BY
LOVE clothes but find they wear out, shrink in the wash or lose colour over time?
Ever bought a bargain, only to find the fit was wrong or the feel was uncomfortable?
If so, a new book by an Irish fashion designer will give you the hacks to enhance your clothing collection.
Garment Goddess by style guru Laura de Barra – out today – reveals the secrets of buying and keeping a wardrobe for life.
De Barra, a former designer for women and menswear, gives a masterclass on fabrics, design and details to look out for in this bible for clothes lovers.
The Corkonian – who now works in property – is also author of home manuals Gaff Goddess and Decor Galore.
But she returned to her fashion roots for this latest book which casts an expert eye over racks and rails.
The type of fabric used in a garment dictates how much it costs as well as how it fits, feels and wears.
Natural fabrics – cotton, wool, silk and flax – are the best choice as they feel and last better.
Garments with natural fabrics have breathability – they’re warm in winter but cool in summer.
DURABLE
They’re soft and comfortable, like silk and cashmere, are less likely to trigger allergies as they won’t irritate and are absorbent.
Cotton is durable and will survive washing cycles and wear out more slowly.
Synthetics – nylon, polysester, acrylic and spandex – can be cheaper, but fare less well all round.
However, sometimes we need to choose them – for example, hosiery is generally nylon because it’s durable and affordable.
Polyester is wrinkle-free and has easy-care qualities while acrylic is a low-cost version of wool.
Seams on garments can be a clue to their performance.
They should be secure enough to not unravel easily, or at all. They should be neat and appropriate and should provide enough “give” so the fabric does not tear and the seam does not snap.
De Barra notes: “Designers inspect the seams and finishes in great detail as a good indicator of how well made a piece is.
“The more time spent on a garment’s seams, the more expensive it will be.”
If a seam is visible when hung, such as along the back of a neckline, it’s an indicator of lower quality and cost-cutting.
If a coat or a top is properly finished off, the seams will match up, she advises. De Barra said: “Always look at the seams – sometimes the back of a jacket can be a tell-tale sign of rushed production. The stripe or pattern may not match the whole way along, but it will be obvious if effort has been made on the main focus areas.”
A good shirt is a vital part of any wardrobe – but how to recognise quality? Collars and cuffs are vital – they should be perfectly executed and finished, with two layers. Rub your thumb and index finger over collars, and if they feel stiff, they are interlined. Cuffs should have a “placket” above them.
This is the finish of the slit that allows your hand to fit through the end of the sleeve.
A good shirt will have a longer placket to fit all hands and roll up nicely, with a button mid-way to stop it gaping when rolled down.
She said: “Look at buttonholes closely and test buttons well.
“If there are spare buttons provided, the shirt is made to be worn numerous times. If the shirt is in a packet, ask for a sample.”
Hanger loops are a sign the brand is willing to take on the cost of a traditional detail while back pleats on a shirt give a better range of motion.
The easiest, most cost-effective way to keep clothes is to wash them less.
De Barra said there’s an art to washing with the life of garment in mind.
Get familiar with laundry symbols and follow them to increase the wear-per-buy ratio.
Turn garments inside out to protect the exterior and hold in dyes – denim jeans in particular should always be washed this way. Open all buttons to put less stress on threads and buttonholes, close all zips to avoid zip damage and empty all pockets to prevent the chaos of a pocket tissue in a wash.
Lastly, familiarise yourself with “old-fashioned” skills such as sewing. Burst seams on can be easily repaired, once you know how to thread a needle.
Garment Goddess by Laura De Barra is out from today, published by Gill Books, and priced €19.99.
The more time spent on seams, the more expensive LAURA DE BARRA YESTERDAY