A-listers swoon as Rocha sets London Fashion Week alight
INA sea of Fashion Week hype and hyperbole, London loves genuine storytelling and desirable clothes, and it certainly got that from the Irish on Saturday.
Simone Rocha (31) from Dublin consolidated her reputation for subversive femininity and, in a stunning show at the gilded Goldsmith’s Hall, she explored a modern woman’s take on shape and volume by layering and marrying luxurious fabrics together. (top right)
The clue to Simone’ s gold intentions were in her invite and the whisper of gold threads were transformed into striking tinsel yarn in a grid pattern. It was one of the stars of the show and quickly generated swoons in the A-lister ‘frow’ when shown over Simone’s signature ‘tied-up tailoring’ with cross-leg ribbons and bows. (top centre)
The 40 looks included apron sweeps of tulle plaid, a botanical, tapestry-like jacquard, a ‘Victorian tomboy’ punkish red tartan two-piece, while a tartan coat featured furry panels.
There was a mix of Victorian and punk, Gothic and Edwardian, petticoats, ruffles, and inspiration was found too in the landscapes and portrait work of artist John Constable.
Simone’s variety of silhouettes included bared shoulders, shoulder apertures and a lovely open neckline executed in a belted coat in black corded lace and worn over a longer, scallop-hemmed dress. This will no doubt appeal to more conservative dressers along with a stand-out jacquard coat with puff sleeves.
But for the more adventurous fans, target number one could be the red patent, off-the-shoulder coat worn with furry shoes (top left).
For a young mum who sets out to design for women of all ages, and sizes, this is a broad church indeed, but Simone fulfilled it in style in AW18.
Entry-point purchases often start with her jewellery, and AW18 gems include high impact crystal drop earrings. Stranded pearls feature too and are studded into her gold leather brogues.
Meanwhile, JW Anderson showed he has well and truly dropped the ‘enfant terrible’ moniker as, after a decade in the business, he showed his very wearable womenswear and menswear collections together.
There was much to love, from the dropped waistlines to the handkerchief, dipped hemlines. Crowd-pleasers included light pleated skirts, patent high-tops, tab front duffel coats, basket-weave camel sweaters and matching scarves.
The handbag fiend in me zoned in on his signature barbell handbags which have statement lace-up sides.
A retinue of 49 models came through an installation of mushroom art wearing khaki greens, creams and a vivid paisley, a nod to the iconic pattern he used 10 years ago in his debut collection. There’s humour in his designs, from the man’s duck-egg blue sweater with white shirt illustration finished off with a 3D stripped knitted tie to the doughnuts hanging from key rings on waist belt tabs.