Save cash and carry
The new generation of ‘anti It-bags’ are simple, pared-back and affordable,
Shoes will wear down, earrings may get lost and we quickly grow tired of flashy clothes, but bags have enduring appeal.
In the 90s, we saw the phenomenon of the designer ‘It-bag’, from Chanel’s 2.55 with chain strap to Fendi’s Baguette (made famous by Carrie Bradshaw on Sex
And The City) to Dior’s Saddle bag. The latter is enjoying a revival, having been reissued for the new season, but with prices starting at €1,800 for a mini canvas version, it’s out of reach for most fashion fans.
For today’s fashionistas, however, the most sought-after bags are those that don’t cost four figures and aren’t designed by household names, instead offering an under-the-radar cool that strikes a balance between luxury and accessibility.
The rise of the affordable ‘It-bag’ can be traced back to the New York brand Mansur Gavriel, launched in 2012. Its leather bucket bag became an instant classic, which promptly sold out and was spotted on the arms of Sienna Miller, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and countless fashion editors.
After Gavriel’s bucket bag (from €415, Brown Thomas) shot to ‘It-bag’ status, designers recognised an untapped market and in the past few years, a new class has popped up offering a small product line-up at accessible price points. It was a breath of fresh air compared to the big legacy brands releasing the same bags in new colourways every season.
Stylist Corina Gaffey cites Mulberry’s 2009 hit Alexa, named after Alexa Chung, as the first “gateway bag”, sitting in the sweet spot between high street and high end at £750. The satchel was called the handbag that “beat the recession”, its creator Emma Hill describing it as “the anti ‘It bag’ that somehow became an ‘It-bag’”.
The new breed of contemporary designs have also been hailed as anti ‘It-bags’ that flout the extravagant conventions of the industry’s most recognisable accessories for something clean, simple and effortless.
Aside from price tags of less than or around €600, what many of these new bags share is a quietly understated design sensibility that offers a distinct contrast to the logomania that has taken over the catwalks and high street. From Chanel’s interlocking Cs to Gucci’s double Gs, by way of Off-White’s neon logo-embellished bag straps, labels have taken branding to new extremes in recent years.
For modern women who don’t live their lives on the front row or on Instagram, there’s a concern you’ll look like a walking billboard.
“There’s this dichotomy between people who want to have the label on show with a Fendi or a Prada, and people who are seeking out interesting, architectural pieces that not everyone has,” says Gaffey.
“And people are more savvy now about knowing you don’t have to spend €2,500 on a bag. They can get these bags and have them for years, because they’re classic with a twist.”
“These brands really resonate with our customers,” agrees Brown Thomas Fashion Director Shelly Corkery, who highlights “the beautiful pared-back craftsmanship” of Danse Lente and Mansur Gavriel’s bags.
Corkery also notes the role Instagram has played in the rapid growth of such young brands.
“Social media has been a huge platform for elevating these brands, with Cult Gaia’s Ark bag flooding Instagram newsfeeds as all the big street style stars carry it. This has led to an instant demand,” she says of the bamboo clutch, which retails at €330 in store.
“The designer aesthetic, quality of the leathers and subtleness of design at an affordable price point is what is key to their success.”
However, these bags aren’t limited to the Instagram generation. “They are for everyone!” Corkery insists, while Gaffey says the sophisticated, structural designs appeal to all age groups.
“It’s subtle branding, it’s not in-your-face, so it’s more classic and doesn’t date as much. And I think people want that cool bag that everyone is asking, ‘where did you get that?’. Everyone loves having the unknown label and having it first.” She adds that they are also easy to wear, whether you’re dressing up or down. “They’re not too fashion-y, but they have those elements that make them a
little bit more interesting. They fit every occasion — I wouldn’t change my bag from day to evening unless I was getting really dressed up, and I think that’s the case for a lot of people. They don’t have the time to be switching up their handbag and these bags are so simple.”
If you’re looking for a bag that makes a subtle statement but won’t overwhelm an outfit, a contemporary ‘It-bag’ will fit the bill. Here are five to try.
Simon Miller
Simplicity is key for the contemporary ‘It-bag’, but that doesn’t mean the designs are simplistic. US brand Simon Miller’s Bonsai bucket bags are a fashion week favourite, and the design team add interest with unexpected details like elegant gold or acrylic hoop handles. Bucket bag, €645 from net-a-porter.com.
Nico Giani
Niccolò Giannini prizes Italian craftsmanship, and he brings a modern polish to the everyday tote in smooth tan leather with a chic top handle, which can be carried on your wrist, and a shoulder strap for when you’re holding a coffee. Tote bag, €380 from matchesfashion.com.
Danse Lente
The London-based brand, whose name means ‘slow dance’ in French, takes a playful approach to design, offering clean lines, glossy hardware and a warm colour palette. This eyecatching hexagonal bag has a top handle and a cross-body strap for two ways to wear. Cross body bag, €355 from Brown Thomas.
Wandler
Dutch designer Elza Wandler updates classic tote, crossbody and shoulder bags with geometric shapes. The cult Hortensia bag is a regular on the street style circuit, and is available in practical midi and mini sizes. Tote bag, €635 from matchesfashion.com.
Staud
Queen of the bucket bags, LA label Staud’s designs are Instacatnip. There’s the leather and canvas Britt, the macramécovered Moreau and the refined classic Bissett, our pick, which comes in a range of colours and textures. Bucket bag, €330 from matchesfashion.com.