A rustic French classic that goes wonderfully with hake

This week chef Clodagh McKenna makes an autumnal vegetable stew with olives and capers

THIS week I am writing from Paris, the mother city of gastronomy. I have come here to eat my way around the city’s newest, most innovative restaurants, and find inspiration. Here are the highlights from my gastrotour around the City of Lights. I started off with supper in Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement, a fantastic, classic French bistro where I had delicious squid cooked with preserved lemons before moving on to a beautifully cooked côte du boeuf with béarnaise sauce. This was followed by a jaw-dropping dessert — choux pastry with praline crème. The restaurant was packed, with tables squished together, the perfect French bistro experience.

The next day, I went to Clamato, also in the 11th, for what would be without doubt the best lunch of the year. I kicked off with oysters from Blainville-sur-Mer in Normandy.

Then came three sensational dishes — line-caught red tuna, Sicilian pomegranate and red chicory, pollock ceviche from Quessant, physalis and chulpe and line-caught horse mackerel with burnt bread sauce and mustard. All of these dishes were simply outstanding.

I would honestly head straight back just to eat lunch here again.

A few others for your Paris travel notes are Carbon, Frenchie and Le Grand Colbert.

Inspired by all things French,

I am cooking this wonderful ratatouille, a classic French meal that goes so well with other dishes.

Personally, I love serving it with roast chicken, hake, lamb, beef, couscous or even wrapped in pasta. Toss it with cooked fusilli and place in an oven-proof dish, then tear some mozzarella on top and grate Parmesan cheese over it. Place in a hot oven for 10 minutes and you have a fabulous pasta bake. I have added capers and olives to give more interesting salty and earthy flavours.