How this H&M dress became the summer’s big hit
As we emerge from lockdown, the latest high street hero is ushering in a new era of comfortwear and marking the next chapter in power dressing, writes Meadhbh McGrath
The lockdown may be slowly easing, but comfort dressing is here to stay. However, it looks as if many of us have hung up our leggings in favour of a more stylish (and summer-ready) alternative. Enter the tent dress — or in fashion parlance, the trapeze dress.
According to the Lyst Index, the global fashion search platform’s quarterly ranking of the hottest brands and products, the lockdown effect on our wardrobes is clear. The top two items for the second quarter of 2020 are, unsurprisingly, Birkenstock Arizona sandals and a face mask by cult French designer Marine Serre, yet also included in the top 10 is a puff-sleeved cotton midi dress from H&M in delightful Pepto Bismol pink.
Priced at €22.99, the voluminous frock was part of the Swedish brand’s Conscious collection of sustainable pieces, each designed using a minimum of 50pc Tercel organic cotton or recycled polyester. The Lyst Index is compiled by analysing the online shopping behaviour of more than nine million shoppers a month, as well as social media mentions and engagement worldwide over a three month period.
But you didn’t need the data to know that this is the dress of the summer. The simple, dramatic shape and eye-popping pink shade make for a striking Instagram shot, which explains why the dress has been #gifted to any number of influencers. You’ve probably seen it all over social media, on the likes of Vogue Williams, who wore hers with a straw bag and strappy silver sandals.
However, you’ve more likely spotted it in the wild: this is the kind of wearable, democratic trend beloved by real women — so much so that the dress is now completely sold out online, though eagle-eyed shoppers may be able to pick up one of the remaining few in stores.
What’s behind the appeal? It’s notably bigger and brighter than 2019’s style of the summer, the viral polka-dot Zara midi that earned its own Instagram account and became a meme. It’s also less fussy than the ditsy floral and prairie-style dresses that have dominated the high street for the last year.
The tent dress taps into our renewed desire for simplicity and comfort. It’s the kind of dress you can throw on with trainers and a top knot and be on your way. It’s sufficiently roomy that you aren’t conscious of fabric clinging, pulling or pinching, as well as suitably laid-back and floaty enough for that summer-dress feeling, without being quite so relaxed that it looks like a nightgown.
H&M’s dress has half-length sleeves, a draw for those who prefer to cover their upper arms, and even better, they’re puff sleeves, which fashion fans haven’t been able to get enough of this year. The pared-back shape allows the puffs to stand out, while showing just enough skin on the arms, legs and décolletage, with a flattering square neckline that gives the dress some youthful definition and prevents it from engulfing your figure with excesses of fabric. That fabric, too, is a desirable, breathable cotton, ensuring a comfortable wear on hot days.
The bright pink of the dress brings some much needed cheer in lockdown, and the block colour is more timeless than the usual floral summer prints, which tend to date quickly, giving the purchase longevity. On top of that, it’s terrifically budgetfriendly for shoppers whose wallets have been hit by the pandemic, and although produced by one of the world’s largest fast fashion retailers, the Conscious collection’s eco credentials prove attractive to those concerned with building a more sustainable wardrobe.
The H&M dress has been likened to Villanelle’s famed pink Molly Goddard gown in Killing Eve, though its resemblance may be more symbolic than actual. The billowing shape they each share marks a new chapter in power dressing: the wearer necessarily takes up more space, both literally and figuratively — a phenomenon some commentators have dubbed “womanspreading” or “baggy con”, the antithesis of body con fashion.
And yet, for every fan gushing over how versatile and easy to wear the tent dress is, there are critics decrying it as a shapeless sack that makes its wearer look like, well, a tent. It’s a reflection of the ongoing debate around what we consider “flattering” today.
For many, flattering is a more palatable byword for slimming — a conventionally flattering dress will obscure your stomach, minimise your hips, whittle your waist and make your arms look thinner. All of which is to say, a dress that makes your body appear to take up less physical space than it actually does, i.e. the opposite of what happens when you wear the tent dress.
In the last few years, as women seek to expand the definition of beauty to include bodies of all shapes and sizes, the term has been rejected as an illicit form of fat-shaming.
However, flattering doesn’t have to mean slimming.
A tent dress doesn’t fit the standard criteria: it hangs from
The bright pink of the dress brings some much needed cheer in lockdown, and the block colour is more timeless than the usual floral summer prints
the bust and offers little or no waist definition. But the concept of “flattering” is subjective — you decide what it means to you. And a dress can flatter in myriad ways; it can boost your confidence, it can bring out the colour of your eyes or complexion, it can make you feel happy.
However, it’s worth bearing in mind the old adage that you wear the dress, it shouldn’t wear you. Choosing a dress that overwhelms your figure may not make you feel good, though this can be avoided with some savvy shopping and styling. The safest bet is to opt for a midi or mini length with short or no sleeves, as exposing some skin can go a long way to breaking up the “tent” effect and making sure you don’t look swallowed up.
Likewise, those with a larger bust may prefer lower necklines that show a hint of décolletage, such as the square neck. With the silhouette, you might find it easier to wear a dress that is loose and oversized but not overly wide. If you’re shopping online, be conscious of photos showing models posing with their arms crossed or covering their waist, which can give a misleading impression of the dress’s shape.
And if you find the look too twee, you can contrast with androgynous accessories such as chunky trainers, sporty sandals or Birkenstocks and a boxy or utilitarian jacket. Once you’ve found the best style for you, summer dressing will be a breeze.