This Working Life: A love of wine and Waterford for Finnish sommelier
FOR Alexandra Raitaneva, head sommelier at the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, her dream move to Ireland was disrupted by the Covid pandemic. She tells Mary McCarthy of her journey from Helsinki and how the cows blocking her driveway are a welcome change of pace.
Grape expectations
Before I started in Ardmore last August I had worked my way up to general manager of Ora, one of only six restaurants in Helsinki with a Michelin star.
I got the position at the Cliff House through my network. I had a former colleague contact me to tell me about this really interesting job which included wine and service so I sent my CV and did the Zoom interview.
It is easier to make a first impression face to face but I tried to just do what I do and was as open as possible. The Cliff House reopened in July so I got to work for almost three months before the second lockdown. From that experience I know I made the right decision. Shift notes
I’ve gone into work a few times to organise during the second lockdown. We’ve been doing some renovations so I had to reorganise the new cellars.
I do some inventory and keep track of emails. During the first lockdown we did takeaway but with the 5km limit it’s not feasible during the current restrictions.
Before lockdown, I would head into work between noon and 3pm – we only do dinner service so it depends what is happening.
I start with writing out my to-do list and check emails. I’m responsible for everything wine so I go through my cellars and place orders and do any updating required of the wine list.
I might have a meeting with a wine importer or supplier. I wash and polish all my glasses for service and give the guys a hand setting the room. If we are planning something new for the menu I taste it and figure out what it should be paired with it. This is a nice perk.
We have a break before service and afterwards have a briefing with everyone in the team – front of house and the kitchen. Depending how busy it is I usually finish up between 10pm and midnight. I live a 15-minute drive away and with no public transport, this was a huge change for me at the start.
It’s a gorgeous place to work. I have amazing views to enjoy while doing my daily tasks. Everyone has been welcoming, there’s always a lift home if I need it.
Finnishing school
Growing up, we travelled a lot and I visited many vineyards as my dad worked in the industry. He was a barman, a sommelier and then owned a restaurant. I was cooking three-course meals aged eight.
In Finland, after three years of secondary school you go to high school or take a vocational path. I knew from age seven I wanted to be a chef so when I was 15 I went to culinary school where
I was obligated to try out work placements in all of the fields – a lunch restaurant, hotels, cafes.
I found being a waitress and interacting with people interesting, and after three years of training to be a chef I opted for a dual qualification and studied one more year for a degree in front of house. When I graduated in 2019, I already had my waitressing job at Ora lined up.
Smoothness of service
My dad told me to wear comfy shoes and not to care what they look like as your body will thank you later – this was very useful.
One piece of advice I would give is to figure out a way to instantly ground yourself as the hospitality industry gets stressful. Find a way of calming down quickly.
It is different for everyone. Some people count to ten and take a sip of water. Cleaning or organising is what works for me. Setting everything straight around my work station. If this is neat and organised, my mind follows.
Profitable hobby
Since the age of 13 I’ve always worked a lot and had part-time jobs which was part of the reason I could graduate early within the four years.
My work is also my hobby. In my free time, wine is my passion. I do master classes, tastings and courses and listen to many podcasts – Guild of Sommeliers and The Big Vin Theory are my favourites.
I read a lot of books and industry papers and follow my colleagues. It’s easy to keep up to date as there is a lot aimed at the industry professional.
Ora was run by a very close family and was a huge milestone for me; it gave me the training that got me the Cliff House job. I loved talking about the wine, the importers took me in and taught me a lot.
I worked there for almost two years and for the last nine months was manager.
Reading the table
Manners still mean a lot though some people forget. Be respectful, keep eye contact – the simple stuff works. Hierarchy is still quite strong in hospitality and I think knowing your place and respecting the people around you is important.
When I have a rude customer, I keep in mind it is more often than not something going on in their life that is upsetting them, not this situation.
I try to kill them with kindness and concentrate on being polite so they will notice themselves and how they are acting. I focus on not going into the same space of mind they are in. Doing the exact opposite takes a lot of time to learn but it’s the best approach.
When people are drinking too much and this becomes a problem, I tell them I don’t want to sell them any more alcohol and I stick to what is decided.
At the Cliff House people come to celebrate something – they tend to be lovely. I can figure out quickly what they want; some want to talk, which is great, some expect a very efficient service and more of an experience and I respect that too.
Tipping point
I see now when I was living and working in the city I never stopped. I was always off to a new restaurant, always on the run and when I moved to Ardmore I could shake this off. My driveway gets blocked by moving cows and that’s never happened to me before.
I’ve learned how to enjoy the peace and can actually calm down now. I go for a walk on the beach and take a breather.
Moving to Ireland in 2020 was not great timing but I’m glad I did it – I had the goal to live abroad and I’m getting good experience. I have a family friend close by and have made friends within the team – we’re in the same boat.
I grew up bilingual and spoke Finnish to my mum and Swedish to my dad and when the restaurant was open I met a few Swedes but not a single Finn.
I have not been to Dublin or travelled around Ireland – but this year everything will change. Unfortunately, I had to return to Finland for a funeral, this was unavoidable. I return to Waterford this week and have a test and quarantine. And then I start to prepare for reopening – whenever that is.
The uncertainty is hard; I’m trying to make the most of the quiet time but can’t wait to get back into it.