Souks factor
From Berber feasts to chocolate buffets, embrace the exotic on a break in Marrakech
As I sipped on the heady mint tea and tucked into a fragrant lamb tagine in a traditional Berber home high in the Atlas mountains, I realised that this was no ordinary winter sun break.
Sure, you can laze by the pool of your five-star hotel, but save that for the Canaries – more exotic experiences await you in Marrakech.
And towering above its imposing walls is that majestic Atlas range, which acts as a barrier between the city and the endless Sahara Desert beyond.
The mountains are the ancient home of Berbers, which make up around 40 per cent of the population here.
The villages nestled beneath the glowering range are an easy day trip from Marrakech. The scenery is incredible, especially if you scramble higher up the slopes to reach the snowline.
KASBAHS
From here you can see the orange soil of North Africa spread out below as locals ski past on any available patch of white.
A sign read “Courchevel, Africa” tipping its hat to the popular ski resort in France.
Along the way there – and back – are visits to forts and kasbahs and film sets, camel rides into the desert, and meals with hospitable locals.
Back in the city, we were delighted
to discover a happy hour with a difference at our grandly-named Mövenpick Hotel Mansour Eddahbi. Chocolate Hour – a nod to the Swiss owners – started at 5pm.
In the hotel’s grand, sparkling foyer – crammed with interesting historic artefacts, a large chandelier made of mirrors and gold, and a series of water features – was a table laden with fondants and ganache; batons of white, milk, and dark chocolate; fancy lollipops; buttons... and an urn of hot chocolate to warm us up after a snowball fight in the mountains. Heaven!
To get the most out of
Movenpick Hotel Mansour Eddahbi Tasty tagines Atlas Mountains tower over Marrakech In the lively souks
the local cuisine, you really must brave the stalls on Jemaa el-fnaa square in the evening.
By day, the walled city’s main market place is a seething mass of shoppers, tourists, snake “charmers”, henna artists and traders.
At dusk, grab a seat at one of the restaurant balconies overlooking the square and watch as the whole area is cleared to make way for the food carts, which appear from the alleyways and
After dark food stalls on Jemaa el-fnaa Square
turn into mini restaurants covering the square. Long before food trucks became trendy in the West, Jemaa el-fnaa was playing host to pop-ups, serving charred lamb skewers, fried fish and steaming bowls of snail soup. Not all stalls are created equal, so check them carefully and take advice before plunging in.
ADVENTUROUS
Like the surrounding souks, it’s a loud, hectic, jostling affair, but a rewarding one for the adventurous.
During the day, get lost in the alleyways which spread out from the square – haggle over leather slippers, chunky silver jewellery, silk scarves, colourful ceramics, tagines, lanterns and spices. You will get a fair amount of hassle, but be firm and polite. It’s part of the experience.
Dominating the skyline of this lowslung city is the minaret of the 12th
century Koutoubia Mosque. It’s set in pretty gardens and looks particularly striking when lit up at night.
The Bahia Palace is worth seeking out for it’s intricate designs and stunning tile work. There’s more beauty at Yves Saint Laurent’s exquisite Majorelle gardens, and I especially loved the old El Badi Palace, which has been colonised by storks, with vast messy nests atop crumbling walls.
We were there during the International Film Festival so we went for a few pre-screening drinks in the bar at the posh Sofitel hotel, to see if we could spot any celebs. But the films were mostly Russian and French, so their stars eluded us.
Back at the Movenpick, we chilled by the pool and enjoyed a massage in the new spa. Relaxation in Marrakech is much-needed, given its hectic nature.
Although relatively small, the city is an incredible assault on all the senses, but you can still get a sense of it over a long weekend.
GET OUT Complete Tours offers excursions in and around Marrakech. Atlas Mountain trips start at around €74 per adult and €52 per child. complete- tours.com
TOP TIPS Watch the Jemaa el-fnaa main square come alive in the evening from a rooftop restaurant. But don’t take pictures of snakes or monkeys there unless you are prepared to pay for them.
MORE INFO
muchmorocco.com