Just pierfect
The Prince Regent loved it, Lord Olivier did too. We learn what makes Brighton so much fun
BLACKADDER memorably portrayed the Prince Regent as a foppish, fun-loving idiot. “Someone said I had the wit and intellect of a donkey,” pronounced the proud Prince, aka Hugh Laurie.
To which Rowan Atkinson’s Blackadder simpered: “Oh an absurd suggestion, sir... unless it was a particularly stupid donkey.”
Poetic licence, because the future King George IV was clearly an astute and visionary bon vivant.
He spotted potential in Brighton as a place to have fun and constructed his own personal “pleasure palace” there.
Two hundred years later the city is still a lovably eccentric and charming destination – and the perfect place for a weekend of fun.
The North Laine district, with its cobbled, windy streets and bohemian shops and stalls, is a joy to stroll around.
A 20-minute trip on the British Airways i360 – the world’s tallest moving observation tower – affords panoramic views as it glides 450ft above the city and the Sussex coastline.
Then there’s the pleasure palace itself – the wonderful Royal Pavilion, where you can relive the Prince Regent’s sumptuous decadence.
Toss in quirky museums, the Sea Life Centre and, of course, the traditional Brighton Palace Pier, and you have plenty to cater for all tastes.
We stayed in the five-star boutique Claremont hotel, a stylish guest house in a Victorian villa. It takes particular pride in its curated art collection – changed twice a year.
The hotel is at the Hove end of the beachfront and a pleasant 20-minute or so stroll towards the central amenities.
Try taking the seafront promenade there and the bar-packed Western Road/ Church Road on the way back.
As for eating out, Brighton and Hove, (they officially became one in 1997) is home to a phenomenal number of establishments that a long weekend simply can’t do justice to.
We particularly enjoyed English’s of Brighton, where we lapped up oysters followed by seabass. Hindleap sparkling Soak up sea air on famous pier Oyster treat
Lavish Royal Pavilion was the Prince Regent’s retreat Stylish Claremont Hotel has its own art collection. Above: The Prince Regent brighton, €62pp). Drakes is in Kemp Town, a five-minute walk from the pier. It mixes gay bars, interior design shops, cottages and wedding-cake Regency crescents. Blue plaques abound revealing the names of famous residents – not least the late, great actor Lord Olivier and his widow Dame Joan Plowright.
It was the Prince Regent who first popularised the resort, though.
He might have had the intellect of a particularly stupid donkey – but he knew how to have a good time. wine from the nearby Bluebell Estate went down a treat too. Another favourite was Terre a Terre, a vegetarian bistro where we sampled the super-tasty Terre a Tapas to enjoy as much variety from the a la carte menu as possible.
On our second night we joined a “walking dinner” tour... starter at The Grand Hotel, mains in The Restaurant at Drakes and cheese and biscuits at Hotel Du Vin. The idea was to take in more of the scenery as you strolled from course to course (see walkingdinner.com/city/
Rooms at the Claremont Classic hotel cost from €113 to €160 a night; traditional four-poster is €120 – €225. Visit theclaremont.eu
On-the-door tickets for the British Airways i360 cost €18 per person; 16 advance. Tickets for the Royal Pavilion cost €15.50 per person, or €14 advance. See brightonmuseums.org.uk Multi-attraction passes for the i360 and Royal Pavilion, the i360 and Sea Life, or all three, start at €25pp in advance. See britishairwaysi360.com
visitbrighton.com