Hit Austria’s slopes
New easyjet route to Austria opens up favourite ski resort of veteran champ Franz
The mountains of the Tirol and Salzburgerland are well known to skiers, but just two hours south of Salzburg lies Austria’s best-kept skiing secret – Bad Kleinkirchheim.
Tucked away in the far southeast of Austria and spread over the wooded flanks of the Nock Mountain National Park, or “knockies” as they are affectionately called, is Bad Kleinkirchheim (or BKK for short), a spa town dating back to the 12th century.
It’s Austrian legend Franz Klammer’s favourite resort. He grew up skiing here, there’s a fiendishly steep world cup downhill course named in his honour, and he still visits a few times every year.
Last winter easyjet launched the first direct flight from the UK to Klagenfurt, the capital of the lesser-known province of Carinthia. The quaint little airport is just a 45-minute drive away and is a perfect antidote to overcrowded family resorts.
The skiing is ideal for both beginners and stronger skiers, with more than 60 miles of piste over four main mountains. It’s enough to keep many skiers happy for a week.
And there’s a great lift pass deal for under-12s who can ski for one euro a day when an adult buys a six-day ski pass and stays at selected hotels and apartments.
SOOTHE
In this part of Austria the mountains are less serrated and more shapely, with gladed flanks reaching most of the way to rounded-off summits.
And that means plenty of long, tree-lined runs and lovely views into neighbouring Italy and Slovenia.
After a day on the slopes, you’ll find different apres-ski activity here. Most head to thermal baths to soothe tired legs, rather than dancing to Alpenpop.
The resort has two thermal spas, one at either end of town. Fed from the hot waters of the natural spring, the newly-renovated St Kathrein (therme-kathrein.at) is great for families, with a large twister waterslide and an indoor/outdoor adventure pool.
A more stylish, grown-up complex, Romerbad (badkleinkirchheim.com) has 13 different themed saunas, including Finnish Pine, Stone, Saltwater and Roman steam baths.
The indoor pool is shaped like the inside of a cave and has a whirlpool. A mini-slide leads to the sun-drenched outdoor pool with spectacular views of the world cup run.
Snowshoeing is a beautiful way to experience the serenity of the mountains, for skiers and non-skiers alike.
The ski school (skischool-bkk.com) can arrange daily hikes. After riding up
the Maibrunnalm chair you snowshoe over the back side of the “Knockies”. Watch out for eagles overheard and the tracks of deer and rabbits. The tour ends with beers around the outdoor fire at a bar.
You can also explore the history of the village with a guided culture walk. Organised by the Nockalmhof biosphere (biosphaerenparknockberge.com), it starts at the St Kathrein church, where a stream of hot water emerges from rocks in a cave.
There are several different toboggan runs throughout the week, but the real highlight for children is the torchlight pony riding (trattlerhof.at). Meet at the atmospheric Trattlerhof, a hotel-cumstables on the outskirts of the town where staff wear velvet and lederhosen.
You’ll light giant tallow candles before heading off down a track and following the river.
It ends at the Einkehr for hot chocolate and gluhwein by the firepit.
These are followed by fabulous thincrust pizzas (Italy is only 30 minutes’ drive away), Carinthian cured meats and a fine Austrian red, all to the soundtrack of an accordionist.
A magical night in the mountains to conclude your BKK trip.