TRAVEL FILE
Enjoy fine food and lush landscapes in sunny Corsica – just don’t talk football...
With a strained smile, our waiter informed us “Corsica is not France” in response to our congratulations on winning the World Cup.
Making a mental note to steer clear of football, religion and politics, I turned my attention to the less controversial and more pressing subject of what to have for my al fresco lunch at Auberge U Fuconu in the village of Figari in the south of the island.
When my dish arrived, it was my idea of heaven, whether it be Corsican or French: tartine de chevre Corse sur pain des morts. – delicious Corsican goat’s cheese tart on “the bread of the dead”. It was a brioche studded with nuts and raisins and I did it justice as I took in the stunning, lush landscape bathed in a sunny glow.
It’s easy to see why the French call Corsica l’ile de Beauté. It was hard to believe that it had been barely a week since we had landed on this spectacular island, the fourth largest in the Med, after a comfortable two-hour flight on British Airways’ new seasonal direct route to Figari from Heathrow.
We hired a villa and rented a car so we could go exploring – this turned out to be a wise decision as Casa Laricciu is tucked away at the top of a steep and winding path. Built out of logs from the local Laricciu pine, the villa is stunning, with sweeping views of the countryside and the mountains beyond.
Stopping at a supermarket on the way we were able to supplement our welcome hamper with charcuterie, cheese and fruit for a light supper by the pool.
Then the peace of the night was shattered by a scream – from me – when I turned to my right to see a huge black shape sitting silently in the shadows next to me.
But it was just the first of our fourlegged visitors – a lovable labrador, who was soon joined by three purring cats.
And bar the wild boar paté incident (we left it unguarded on the table for a split second) we all looked forward to the nightly visits from our menagerie. After a dip in the pool the next day, we made
Marjorie tackles the Escalier du Roi d’aragon in Bonifacio, above Bonifacio Citadel looks over marina the 20-minute drive to Bonifacio at the southernmost tip of the island.
Perched on top of Corsica’s only limestone plateau, this citadel town, one of the most attractive in the Med, was named after Boniface II the Marquis of Tuscany, and there was a distinctly Italian feel about it as we meandered through cobbled alleyways down to the marina.
Our plan to take a boat trip around its spectacular coastline was scuppered by the wind, so instead we joined the trail of tourists descending the vertiginous Escalier du Roi d’aragon running down from the citadel to the sea.
According to legend, on the orders of Alphonse V, the King of Aragon, soldiers carved the staircase out of the cliff face in a single night, in a vain attempt to Casa Laricciu private villa seize the town. After gingerly tackling the 187 steep steps, descending some 200ft to the bottom – and then back up again – I suspect it took rather longer.
Still the fable only enhanced Bonifacio’s formidable reputation as an impregnable city.
Towering over the marina, we couldn’t miss the famous Bastion de l’etendard. Built in the 16th century to hold heavy artillery, we learned about some of Bonifacio’s historic moments in its four halls which are now a small museum and took a leisurely stroll along the ramparts enjoying views over the marina.
It was time for a well-earned treat and, from one of the artisanal gelaterias lining the marina, I chose a chestnut ice.
With bountiful forests of sweet chestnut trees, it features strongly in Charcuterie Corsican cuisine, from jam, to cakes and biscuits baked with chestnut flour, even in beer.
The island’s pigs gorge on chestnuts, which gives the charcuterie and paté a distinct flavour.
While Bonifacio had something of the Italian spirit about it, the fortified hilltop town of Porto-vecchio on the east coast lives up to its nickname – the St Tropez of Corsica.
Its chic restaurants, bars and boutiques draw the likes of Kate Moss, Paris Hilton and Lewis Hamilton.
Another winner is Palombaggia beach – a 2km stretch of fine golden sand, surrounded by umbrella pines and turquoise water – which has been voted one of Europe’s top 10 beaches.
Paradise in any language... GET THERE: British Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Figari on Sundays (May to October) from €178pp return ba.com WHERE TO STAY: Seven nights’ self-catering at the three-bedroom Casa Laricciu from €740pp (based on six sharing) in September with Corsican Places. With British Airways flights. corsica.co.uk, 0044 01489 866931
GETTING AROUND: