Reggae source
From azure seas lapping white sandy beaches to laid-back locals, delicious jerk chicken and rasta beats wherever you go... Jamaica really does live up to the hype
We were swimming in the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean when my wife Ildi uttered the dreaded words: “What’s that dark shape coming towards us?”
I leaped up, wringing salt water out of my eyes, to see a majestic spotted eagle ray with a wingspan of about a metre make a diversion around us before continuing on its serene way down the coast.
It was just one of many memorable moments during our sevennight stay in Jamaica.
Our base was the five-star allinclusive Riu Palace Tropical Bay hotel in Negril, sitting on one of the most idyllic white sand beaches on the island, despite it being called Bloody Bay.
It has recently had a huge renovation that saw every aspect of the hotel replaced or refurbished in just 80 days.
Our room had a cool, modern Scandinavian vibe with sliding doors opening on to a balcony with a stunning view of the palm tree-lined beach and the dazzling blue sea.
Tempting though it was to laze around and indulge in the Riu’s 24-hour pampering, we were keen to explore and booked a trip to two of must-see locations – YS Falls and Black River.
Our driver Jermain was a fount of local information as we travelled along the south of the island between the aquamarine and forested hillsides.
Imposing gated mansions sat next to corrugated shacks, highlighting the disparity of wealth here. En route we met the cousin of reggae star Peter Tosh when we stopped to take photos of the Wailers founder’s birthplace in the village of Belmont, fronted by a wall painted in rasta colours and the instruction to Lite Up Yu Spliff.
The YS Falls consist of seven waterjamaica’s falls set in beautiful tropical gardens, interspersed with natural pools for bathing – if you can handle the chilly water issuing from natural springs. Huge guango trees abound, their massive branches colonised by drooping succulents and other tropical plants. At the visitor centre, pots of sugar water hang from the eaves, and are visited by tiny iridescent hummingbirds who swoop down to feed on the nectar. After meandering back through meadows full of grazing cows, and stopping for a snack at Juici Patties (Ildi and I had traditional patties in a warm chunk of glutinous coco bread, Jermain went for chickenfoot soup), we boarded a boat trip up the Black River. The town of Black River was once a thriving sugar port, and was the first place in Jamaica to get running water
and electricity, in 1893. It’s surrounded by 21,000 acres of wetlands famed for its population of some 500 crocodiles.
On the cruise upriver, through overhanging mangroves with their root tendrils dangling down to the water, we got to meet several of the beasts, including 55-year-old Eric who swam lazily over to us in the hope of chicken titbits from our guide.
After a day on the road it was wonderful to get back to the Riu and dive into the sea – the temperature of a tepid bath – before facing the daily conundrum of what to choose from the hotel’s vast dinner buffet. The Palace Tropical Bay has four à la carte restaurants ( fusion, Italian, Japanese and steak house, all part of your inclusive deal), plus a Jerk Shack.
However, most days we chose the buffet restaurant, which groans with a huge selection of delicious fruit, salads, local and international hot dishes, as well as enough delightful desserts and exquisite little cakes to stock a patisserie.
It was our regular spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner – wandering around slack-jawed as we tried to make a decision.
Paella or conch curry? Roast duck or fried shrimp with yam
Eric the crocodile swam over looking for chicken treats
and callaloo? Decisions, decisions. Sated, it was a joy to then relax in the warm embrace of a Caribbean evening and have a few drinks while watching some live reggae on the outside stage in the garden. We also made good use of the gym, tried out the Scuba Caribe watersports centre (you can go sailing, try snorkelling or hire paddleboats) and the outdoor pools, and went for a massage in the Renova Spa. Our final adventure was a catamaran cruise down the west coast. First stop was a snorkelling session a mile out at sea over a
majestic reef of fire coral. Face down in the water, you enter a trance-like state among shoals of brightly coloured fish.
They drift past above black spiky sea urchins, and starfish the size of dinner plates. And the odd spotted eagle ray…
After another stop to take a swim through a bat cave (no sign of Bruce Wayne) we reached our destination of the legendary Rick’s Café, set on the clifftop close to the Negril lighthouse.
We chilled out with a coupled of very overpriced bottles of Red Stripe, watching brave (foolish?) souls jump from the heights into the cove below.
All too soon our last evening arrived, spent on the beach with another tequila sunrise, under the glow of a stunning Jamaican sunset.
You can certainly see why guests come back year after year. Would we? Yah, mon. No problem!