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established in the 1870s. On the other, 1970s New Agers have their centre of worship in and around the Cassadaga Hotel which, as you’d expect, is haunted with “friendly” spirits – one an Irish tenor called Arthur who leaves a scent trail of cigars and gin. Most rooms have no phones or TVS so as to not interfere with “spiritual pathways” and there’s no hot water after 10pm. But step beyond its doors and visitors are promised they’ll “embrace the energy of the many spirits who reside in this enchanted inn”.

They’re also told: “Don’t forget to bring your camera. Many of our guests have gotten unbelievable pictures of Spirit Energies in and around the hotel.” The owners claim it is a “respected Spiritual Sanctuary” and add: “It is our mission to help those who are seeking guidance from the Highest Angelic Realms, and it’s truths.”

Walking into the foyer, visitors are welcomed by a board naming the mediums on shift – Gypsy, Misty, Doreen, Inez, Kat and Ron – and their price list, cash only. African voodoo dolls and handmade potions “starting from 20 bucks” can be bought from hotel receptionist DJ.

CYNICISM

When I arrived and asked if she had sensed I was going to turn up, she looked at me blankly – clearly not a possessor of the pricey psychic powers.

But any unsurprising hints of mockery or cynicism simply wash over Cassadaga’s inhabitants.

Clairvoyant Jotte ‘the divine unicorn’ Schaffer, 42 – who works in the Psychic Shop – assured me the “positive vortexes” in the town only brought good energy.

“People need to come with no expectations and an open mind,” she said. “What I do with my readings is plant