Places not to miss on a weekend break in Novi Sad
Explore the subterranean tunnels of Petrovaradin Fortress. More people died in the 88-year building of this 17th century complex than did in battle and its formidable design meant it was only attacked on one occasion. It’s free to explore the ramparts, but touring the 16km of corridors weaving below the city requires a guide (only 1km is accessible to the public). Tours in English require a minimum of 10 tickets (although at €2 each, it’s possible to pay the lot yourself ). Visit the City Museum, part of the fortress, for information on timings.
Wine and dine at Project 72
As a proud city of migrants, Novi Sad’s cuisine is a blend of multiple cultures. Typical dishes from Vojvodina (the local region) include poppy seeds on pasta or dumplings, and red pepper tapenade ajvar. Try the latter as an ice cream at innovative restaurant Project 72 (Kosovska 15). A two-course meal with excellent wines from nearby Fruska Gora costs around €30.
Squeeze into bohemian bar Graffiti
A tumultuous past has taught Novi Sad-ers to live for the moment, making this one of the most fun places to party in Europe. Bars are small, hidden and always packed – and smoking is still legal indoors, so be prepared for an even more cloudy, clandestine experience. There are no distinct cool districts – people stroll from one bar to the next – but Graffiti (Kosovska 21A) is worth seeking out. Listen to jazz while admiring the quirky decor, including a glass cabinet of butterflies and a pair of stag antlers above the bar.
Stay in the thick of the action
Opened in February, Corso Rooms is brilliantly located and excellent value at €40 a night. Rooms are bright and modern, and breakfast is served in the bar downstairs. Friendly manager Andrijana can share tips on the city.