Rock ’n’ Tyrol
Richard Guttridge reaches new heights on a summer break to Innsbruck
Spending summer in what is traditionally known as a ski resort is a surprising joy. With majestic peaks and pastel-coloured buildings, capital of the Austrian Tyrol, Innsbruck, is the perfect combination of urban chic and alpine splendour.
You might know the picturebook city from the Winter Olympics. It has hosted the event twice, in 1964 and 1976, and its jaw-dropping ski jump is still a huge tourist attraction. Skiers pack out the slopes here in winter, leaving summer visitors to discover its charms at a more relaxed pace.
There is alfresco dining to enjoy, historic sightseeing tours and sports such as cycling and swimming in mountain lakes – all surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery, which dazzles in the summer sunshine.
After flying into Munich with Lufthansa, my wife and I took a two-hour transfer over the German border into Innsbruck. You can also go direct with Jet2 from five regional bases and it’s a 15-minute hop from the airport.
But before you can cast your eyes on Innsbruck’s baroque churches, gabled residences and winding alleyways, you’ll be hypnotised by its majestic backdrop – the steep wall
of the Alps. This compact city sure is a showstopper.
My base for my trip was the Hotel Stage 12, located in the Altstadt and surrounded by interesting shops, restaurants and pavement cafes. It has a young, modern vibe with a glass-walled reception – take a seat on a swing while you wait – slick cocktail bar and an outdoor courtyard, lovely for evening drinks by candlelight.
None of the 120 rooms are the same, but all have parquet flooring, jewel-coloured soft furnishings and rainfall showers. Some have bathtubs, others stop-and-stare mountain views and balconies.
A Moroccan-style spa with a hammam, sauna and steam room is on the sixth floor and there’s also a place to store ski equipment in the basement, should you be booking in during the winter season.
Breakfasts here are really worth getting up for – homemade Bircher muesli with berries, fancy pastries, cold meats, an array of cooked options and proper Italian coffee. Out for dinner on the first night, my wife and I discovered Die Wilderin restaurant tucked away down a side street. Definitely a place you should seek out. The food here is seasonal, sustainable and local. Whatever’s in the nearby fields that day ends up on your plate and every single cut of meat is used. I opted for tender beef with mashed potato and green beans – the perfect example of simple and tasty well-cooked fare.
Next morning we took a guided tour through the city streets, led by Monika who recommended places to eat, drink and shop.
“You won’t find H&M here,” she informed us. Most businesses are independent. The tour then took in all 133 steps of the Stadtturm Tower. This landmark watchtower, dating back to the 1400s, is one of tallest buildings in town and offers amazing views.
Along the way, Monika shared fascinating facts about the country and its residents, including the reason why Austrians love schnapps. Her grandmother lived until she was 99 and played tennis until she was 92. She swore by a drop of schnapps each night before bed. Perhaps that’s the secret to a long and active life.
Innsbruck is great for exploring on foot and a City Card gets you access to the museums and attractions as well as the sightseeing bus. It also includes the big thrill of the Innsbruck cable car.
Called the Nordkette, passengers board at Congress Station at the foot of the mountains for the 20-minute ascent. The funicular stations were designed by Zaha Hadid, the late architect who created the Aquatics Centre at the 2012 London Olympics. Her innovative work can also be admired at Bergisel Ski Jump just across the city.
The hair-raising journey up the mountainside peers over the city’s rooftops before bends of the River Inn come into shot
‘‘ I watched in amazement as a skier launched from the top of Bergisel Jump
and the breathtaking views of Europe’s highest ski slopes unfold.
From an altitude of 6,250ft at the Restaurant Seegrube, I sampled the delicious local dish Tiroler bauerngrostl, made with beef, pork, roast potatoes, fried egg and veg mixed together. It’s not every day you get to eat lunch in the clouds.
Back on firm ground it was time for a piece of pure Austria – a Tyrolean evening at Tiroler Abend.
Think lederhosen, cow bells and yodelling wrapped up into a riotous dinner show. Where else would you see a man playing a saw as a musical instrument or men in traditional
Austrian dress hacking away at a log with axes to provide a beat? I swear I hadn’t touched a drop of alcohol at this point.
The starter was a tasty consomme with pancake strips, roast pork and potatoes for main and that Austrian staple, apple strudel topped off an evening that was a total hoot.
Next morning we paid a visit to the Swarovski Crystal Worlds, a museum showcasing the famous jewellery brand associated with this part of the world. More weird and wonderful sights here, including stone-encrusted garments based on those worn by celebrities including Marilyn Monroe, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé.
A life-size sculpture of Elton John suspended mid-air at his piano was a highlight, as was a freezing cold room featuring real snow. Christmas in August – another oddity in Austria.
Another of the city’s treasures is Ambras Castle, a striking white fortress dating back to the 16th century. Perched high on a hill, we passed through formal gardens before a grand tour featuring some of Europe’s oldest artworks, armoury and medieval sculptures. That evening we had a dinner of wonderfully crisp pork schnitzel at Weisses Rossl in the old town.
My personal highlight of the trip, however, had to be the Bergisel Ski Jump. Seeing it from the ground is impressive enough. I then watched with amazement as a ski jumper launched himself from the top and reached a speed of 60mph.
We then took a cable car to appreciate the magical and ever-soslightly frightening views from the top. It boggles the mind ski jumpers willingly descend from here. Luckily a professional jumper was on hand to show us how it’s done. A huge privilege to be so close to such sporting greatness and bravery.
I passed on the chance to sit on the bar at the top, having witnessed my wife’s reaction as she went first. It is the must-see attraction here, so if you are ever in Innsbruck, do jump at the chance, or perhaps not…