Hi, my old China
Marjorie Yue is back in magical Hong Kong as it finally reopens
Touching down at Hong Kong International Airport, I was excited yet a little nervous, wondering if this amazing metropolis had changed much from the heady, fascinating city I saw when I last went some 10 years ago. Anti-government protests, political unrest and a pandemic had seemed to conspire against my return. But Covid restrictions were lifted at the start of the year and Hong Kong reopened to welcome tourists. I needn’t have worried. As the taxi weaved through traffic, the familiar skyline came into view. The city had lost none of its magic.
WHERE TO EAT
Food is a serious business for the Chinese, so much so that “Have you eaten yet?” used to be the greeting – the equivalent of “How are you?”.
Hong Kong is a food paradise. From street stalls to Michelin-star restaurants; from Shanghainese and Cantonese to Italian and Mexican, there’s an eatery for every taste.
For a Shanghainese banquet, try Michelin-star restaurant Ye Shanghai on shopping mall K11 Musea’s seventh floor in Tsim Sha Tsui. Innovative dishes such as tea leaf smoked egg, sweet soy turnip pork terrine with Zhenjiang vinegar alongside classics like steam pork dumplings and ‘Drunken’ chicken, were exquisite and beautifully presented (elite-concepts.com).
Yat Tung Heen (Level B2, Eaton HK, Nathan Road) is another Michelin-star restaurant that delivers delectable Cantonese cuisine. Signature dishes include honey-glazed barbecued pork and melt-in-the-mouth roasted pork belly while the steamed red date pudding with chilled mango roll more than satisfied my sweet tooth (yattungheen.com).
Four Seasons Pot Rice on Arthur Street in Yau Ma Tei is popular with the locals, so expect queues outside this street food cafe. Traditionally, rice is slow-cooked over charcoal in a claypot to give a toasted crust, with the topping of your choice (I went for chicken) covering the rice. After drizzling over a sweet soy sauce the lid is replaced as you wait for a few minutes before tucking in.
Set on the beachfront promenade
of glitzy Repulse Bay on the south coast, Limewood has a laidback California vibe. Seared tuna with pineapple salsa, green papaya and mango mayo was deliciously fresh, while the churros with coconut ice cream and salted caramel sauce was very moreish – as were their signature margaritas (limewood.hk).
CULTURE SCENE
Opened in 2021 on reclaimed land, M+ in the West Kowloon Cultural District is one of the world’s largest cultural projects. Called the Asian version of Tate Modern, the visual arts museum houses galleries, cinemas, restaurants, a Moving Image Centre, research centre and a roof garden. Current exhibition, Madame Song: Pioneering Art and Fashion in China is a fascinating chronicle of the life of the Chinese artist, actor, fashion icon, socialite and businesswoman (until April 14, mplus.org.hk/en).
For ancient artefacts, the Hong Kong Palace Museum, further down Museum Drive, showcases dazzling treasures of gold and precious gems, on loan from Beijing’s Palace Museum in the Forbidden City (hkpm.org. hk/en).
MUST DO
Star Ferry Hop on to the much-loved Star Ferry for a ride across Victoria Harbour. The ferry has been carrying passengers between Hong Kong island and Kowloon since 1888. The swing-back seating design means passengers can switch them to change the direction they face, as they take in the iconic skyline on the 10-minute sailing (upper deck: adults 50p/children 30p, starferry.com.hk) Symphony of Lights Harbour Cruise Cruise around Victoria Harbour on Aqua Luna for a mesmerising 15-minute light show set to music. Every night at 8pm, skyscrapers are illuminated by lasers, neon lights and LED screens working in symphony to a soundtrack. (aqualuna.com.hk). Peak Tram Asia’s first funicular railway has had a major renovation, with the sixth generation tram’s sleek longer cars able to carry 200 passengers to the top of Victoria Peak, the island’s highest mountain – and breathtaking 360-degree vistas. Tip: sit on the right for the best view (return ticket £9.30 adult/£7.80 child, thepeak.com.hk).
CITY TOURS
For a flavour of what the locals eat, a three-hour foodie tour round the Sham Shui Po district of Kowloon will tickle and surprise your tastebuds, with hole-in-the-wall eateries, street stalls and sit-down restaurants.
First stop was the Sun Heung Yuen cafe in Kweilin St. We shared a table with a regular customer who had travelled from the New Territories to her favourite cafe. The egg and beef toasted sandwich with a minced meat omelette filling was highly recommended, and a good start, followed by
Hong Kong-style French toast, a sweet syrupy treat, all washed down with a cup of Hong Kong (evaporated) milk tea.
At Kung Wo Beancurd Factory in Pei Ho Street we were shown how tofu is made before trying its renowned tofu pudding with black bean soy milk. Loved by locals, the shop was given a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating in 2021.
Wing Wah Cafe, also on Pei Ho Street, is famed for its pineapple buns, so called because the sugary top resembles the fruit’s skin. They contain no pineapple. (adults £75/ children £57, under 6 free, humidwithachanceoffishballs.com).
A walking tour round Yau Ma Tei, once a fishing village, in the Kowloon Peninsula is like stepping back in time. Tin Hau Temple, on Temple Street, is a Grade I Historic Building and in the main hall stands a statue of Tin Hau, goddess of the sea and protector of sailors and fishermen.
Known as Kitchen Street,
Shanghai Street is where chefs go for pots, pans and other equipment. The old Chinese shop buildings are treasure troves of kitchenware at very good prices.
And on Reclamation Street, in century-old Yau Ma Tei Wholesale Fruit Market are more than 200 stalls selling every kind of fruit you can think of, at their freshest and cheapest (£38, hohogo.com.hk/en).
RETAIL THERAPY
Hong Kong has long been a shopper’s paradise but K11 Musea at Victoria Dockside, is no mere mall. The 10-storey building mixes art and shopping, with luxury brands such as Cartier, Fortnum and Mason, and the first MOMA Design store in China, alongside galleries and exhibitions. The interior could be a piece of art in itself, dominated by a huge gold ball set with cut glass panels and led lights.
If department store shopping is more your bag, head to SOGO in Causeway Bay. Hong Kong’s largest Japanese department store sells everything from cosmetics and jewellery to handbags and European fashion brands, and there’s a supermarket too.
Bargain hunters can scour the flea markets in Sham Shui Po, trawling through the Men’s market in Apliu Street for electronics and camera gear.
Great British Sewing Bee wannabes will love Ki Lung Street, with stalls and stores selling ribbons, beads, buttons and fabric.
WHERE TO STAY
Four-star Dorsett Mongkok is a perfect base from which to explore Kowloon. It’s a short walk from Olympic MTR Station with a daily complimentary shuttle bus service to Mong Kok, Yau Ma Tei, Tsim Sha Tsui and West Kowloon. Our Suite Premier was spacious with spectacular views of Tai Kok Tsui’s skyscrapers. Doubles from £105 a night. mongkok.dorsetthotels.com
Located in the Central District, close to cool Soho and its hip bars and restaurants, four-star Lan Kwai Fong Hotel is near Sheung Wan MTR station. Our Deluxe Harbour View Room offered jaw-dropping views of the harbour and city. New restaurant Aap Ba Din has a Cantonese menu based on seasonal ingredients.
Doubles from £111 a night. dcollection.com/lan-kwaifong-hotel-kau-u-fong/index.html
A three-hour foodie tour will give you a flavour of what the locals eat